Cut & Buff?

J

jeff

Hello, my question is about speeds and time buffing.. i can cut fairly good now.. doing guitars and motorcycles... now my clear is going down nearly flawless i can start with 1500 then 2000 then 2500 grit.. really smooth... 3M swirrel remover then the polish .. my question is I'm using a drill with the grey pad and can get a nice finish but not like the orginal clear itself.. i would just leave the clear alone but a nib here and there keep me from just leaving it alone.. maybe i'm too picky.. is my drill too slow about 1500 revo. thanks
 
For another alternative, check out the Astro #3055 3" polishing kit. It works good for small stuff.
 
You could take it to 3000 or 4000 and rub it out by hand, small parts like that if sanded properly can be rubbed out by hand surprisingly fast, and better results IMO
Buy the 3M 3 step system-excellent compound and polishes. A clean cotton cloth and a little bit of elbow grease.
 
I often do gun stocks, small parts, door jambs, body lines, edges, dashes, bike tanks and fenders all by hand. It's really not much work if the sanding is done well.
 
i did it by hand for a while which made me shoot better LOL then got a mini buffer as well...
 
jeff;18523 said:
3M swirrel remover then the polish ..

????? the swirl remover should be the last step.
If the clear isn't as clear as the original, then it's not being polished out enough.
And that should happen before the swirl remover.
 
You could take it to 3000 or 4000 and rub it out by hand, small parts like that if sanded properly can be rubbed out by hand surprisingly fast, and better results IMO
Buy the 3M 3 step system-excellent compound and polishes. A clean cotton cloth and a little bit of elbow grease.
I painted a GMC Caballero a couple of years ago Nason base/SPI universal clear. I cut with 1500, 3000 and finished with 5000. It came out so good by going to 5000 that very little buffing was required.
 
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