Compressor oil

EddieF

EddieF

Top Banana
Ordered a heavy "portable" 2hp 3gal 3.xx cfm compressor. Returned the oil-free (but not silicone grease free) pos.
Manual says 20min break-in with tank drain wide open, then it's good to go.
Saw vids changing oil after break-in and yes metal particles come out & oil's darker.
You guys favor a brand? Synthetic? Manual for my temps is 20 or 30w, thinking 20w being it's tight & 30w down the road.
Thanks ya'll
 
compressor oil is generally 30w non detergent. napa carries compressor oil in gallons. i believe its crc brand. i have been running this for years
 
Thank you(s). Mobil 427 I read's iso 100 which if I remember right's the 30w option.
I can't find where I saw iso chart for pump, no biggie. I'll check local napa Monday with your words of wisdom.
I like thick oil but being spanking new and winter coming, i'll see what they got in 20w & 30w equiv.
Cheap easy enough flush & fill a couple times.
Thanks
 
Interesting on the thick oil.
My compressor at home has moble1
Either 0w20 or 0w30 or 5w20 or 5w30 since new 1997.
Compressors at work i think is 5w20,
If not its 0w20 or 0w30, i use what ever is excess in garage at home but everything is moble1, except f250 is rotella-t synthetic.
 
That's funny. Every pump i read info on says straight weight non motor oil & then someone comes along with success story using motor oil for 20yrs lol!
 
Your right they all say that also most don't want synthetic either.
I think is more of a problem that the engineers dont understand difference between say 5w40 and 40w.
Just like when 0w came out after the 5w i will never forget the scare tactic from the car dealers..
Then again using a straight weight will cause compressor pump to wear out faster because of holding heat and breaking down faster than a multi grade. So you sell more parts.
 
Also not just 20 years old but the 2 at plant are 11 years old and run all day.
All 3 are IRs.
They came with quart of either 30 or 40 weight synthic oil.
I let compressor build up air, than i dump oil and put in the good stuff.
 
As Jim stated compressor oil is non detergent. I believe that non detergent is a better lubricant than detergent oil. There isn't a need for detergents, as it's a non combustion pump, and therefore, no byproducts of combustion for detergents to be necessary.
 
Correct but not true on the better lubicant, the can make oil do that but it would be expensive if they did and really no point.
Reason the want non detergent is because there is no oil filter and the dirt will fall to pan.
I change oil every year on all three.
So not worried about it.
But that dont mean my way is right, just way i do it.

Follow manufacturers directions best way to sleep good at night.
 
the reasoning behind non detergent in a compressor is because it has no oil pump or filter system. detergent oils keep material in suspension so it can be picked up and filtered out and not turn into sludge in the bottom of the oil pan. same with moisture. regular motor oil turns milky white and traps moisture. non detergent will get milky but after the compressor runs hot for awhile that water will burn off and the oil goes back to being clear again. as for mobile1 and other oils, their is nothing wrong with those and they wont hurt anything to run those as long as you watch that sight glass for the milky oil. it will really depend on the humidity where you are and if the compressor runs in short burst never getting hot or if you work the crap out of it.
 
Found iso/wt chart. Before this i only knew iso was used for freon compressors.
Edit- what i meant for iso freon pumps is weight rating not oil type which of course is different.
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Wow, so i would change every 2.5 months going by hours, I like doing it once a year.
By the way if on a car or compressor if you want to know what is wearing out if anything and how the oil is holding up Blackstone has oil analysis kits cheap and it will tell you everything you need to know.
 
Non detergent oils don't foam up like detergent oils, if it doesn't
have an oil pump then it's slinging the oil by splashing it so a non detergent
will work better.
 
Jim has good point about humidity levels where comp will run & how often.
I'll use what belongs in nice synthetic, dump it for eyeball inspection for fun after 10hrs.
Bet some of ya's checked sight glass since this started heh.

Side note- fathers friend tossed psi washer with no psi. My father dumped the tar & now has a psi washer & did driveway.
 
You start reading old guys stories about synthetics & it draws u in!
No doubt mob1 or 427 (can't get 426) is badass vs dino oil.
Psi gets restored and then some lol. Quieter too.
Is decreased noise level due to worn parts?
Or would fresh tight rebuild have no decrease in noise using dino vs synthetics?

Ordered a qt of 427. Thank you all special breeds for input :)
No doubt i'd also trust 10-30 or lighter mob1.

I'll try to use my old radio shack spl meter to measure included oil & after 20min break-in with light mob1 or 427.
 
Check out cSt numbers. Donno exactly what cSt means but interesting 5-20 & 5-30 compared to 427.
Actually better at colder temp? My new toy came, stopping by parts store later for 5-20w.
I'll save the 427 for spring/summer. Excited :)

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Ok. Ran with oe 20w for 10min, let it rest then another 10min. Air tank valve open.
Dumped it.

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Conclusion- heavier oil draws more current & highest noise level free wheeling, all approx same noise level at cut off psi.
The boss' m1 wins. Now, will i try heavier m1 another day? Of course :)
I have no problem changing engine oil more often if it foams vs compressor oil.
I'm hungry.

Edit- i let all run 10min to heat.
Edit2- 427 is not synthetic.

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