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Colorsanding with Eagle DA paper

#22
i use them wet. eagle discontinued the wet green discs in hookit. now they just sell them labeled dry. they are the same disc with some anti loading lubricant on them. that stuff comes right off as soon as you use it. same goes for the tolex.
For the buflex green you use the stick on psa or hook it velcro with the holes??
I remember you say you still had a couple of boxes of the old disc i havent order the green because for the this step of 2500-3000 green velcro i didn't like the holes dirt could ge in the holes ,the psa green no holes i didnt like the idea using it wet because i cat use the cushion interface
 
#23
no i use the Velcro with the holes. never had an issue with dirt from the holes. i do have a dedicated soft interface pad that i use for wetsanding though. the interface pad is solid with no holes.
 
#24
Oh ok i see you use the super buflex green dry with holes wet.
what brand soft interface you using the one from eagle abrassive im using the tolex and 3000 trizact
 
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#25
no i believe they are norton or some generic ones. eagle makes interface pads specifically for the bufflex. those are about useless. dont use them. the paper doesnt stick to them since the velcro is reversed with fuzzy side against the paper. it just slides off. i dont get what good they are.
 
#26
no i believe they are norton or some generic ones. eagle makes interface pads specifically for the bufflex. those are about useless. dont use them. the paper doesnt stick to them since the velcro is reversed with fuzzy side against the paper. it just slides off. i dont get what good they are.
For buflex I use this pad and it works extremely well, it’s a different kind of finer Velcro that does not let go of the disk.

https://eagleabrasives.com/en/interface-pads/micro-hook-6in-super-tack-interface-pad-7hole
 
#28
Well my order from Eagle Guys arrived, and I got a chance this afternoon to try my hand at dry sanding. I practiced on a fender that was damaged, SPI Black with Universal Clear. I bought a new Harbor Freight pneumatic palm sander with the 3/16 throw. I turned down the air pressure and took it easy, while trying to get a feel for it. Started with yellow 1000 dry until the surface looked nice and flat, switched to the pink Tolex using a spray bottle with water, then switched to the green Buflex wet also. I've read about Meguiars 105 having fillers that hide scratches until you wash the car and they reappear, but, it's all I had on hand. I started with a wool pad (never used wool pad before) so I was cautious not to go to hard. Made a few passes then switched to blue foam pad with Meguiars 205, I am pleased with the results. I moved to the car and started on the top of the fender (more nervous on this fresh shiny paint) same routine as before with pretty good finish. I can see a few pigtails, I guess I should work the Tolex a little longer to remove the 1000 scratches. If you guys have any tips or advice, I'm all ears.
 
#30
not sure how fresh the paint is on the car. if its still a little soft then the clear will pigtail easier and the sandpaper will also cut a bit deeper making it more work to get the sand scratches out. i find my panels buff super easy once the clear is nice and hard. when its a couple few days old and still soft then it requires alot more buffing.
 
#31
not sure how fresh the paint is on the car. if its still a little soft then the clear will pigtail easier and the sandpaper will also cut a bit deeper making it more work to get the sand scratches out. i find my panels buff super easy once the clear is nice and hard. when its a couple few days old and still soft then it requires alot more buffing.
The paint is is 16 days old. Tonight I did the trunk lid, after leveling with the 1000, I switched to the Tolex. I took extra time and didn't rush, then switched to the green buflex. Same as the step before I didn't rush, and I thought the surface looked nice and even. Used the wool pad with M105 and methodically worked the panel. I got it looking pretty good but can still see some scratches and some fine marring. I do see a few places that are clear of blemishes, but I guess the challenge is figuring out what I'm doing wrong. If I purchased the Sonax Cutmax, would it make a difference? Thanks for the replies from everyone !!
 
#34
I think you need to go with 1500 dry,,, tolex wet and buflex wet ..to me tolex is more like 2000 ..I dont ise wool but im about to try lake country purple wool foamed pad and run it about same speed..you may not have enoght material to cut try a little more
 
#35
Danny23, I was looking around and saw the purple wool foam pad you're speaking of. Read some reviews on it and they seemed pretty positive.
 
#36
Yea thats why i got it will give it a try as right now i use the hex logic orange foam pad and menzerna 300 about 1400 rpm seems to work the best...imo you you may have some dirt pigtails are caused by DA dirt trap in between panel and disc...filer you well water and keep panel...
 
#37
Came home from work and went out to the shop to give a look over the trunk lid. I decided to speed the buffer up just a tad and work in smaller sections. That did the trick, I can see a few holidays I missed, but I'm fairly confident I can remove those. I'd still like to try the Sonax Cutmax, the M105 cuts good but it doesn't work very long before it dries out, from what I've read, the Cutmax stays wet longer and cuts really well without the shine enhancers.
 
#40
I will be trying the purple wool with menzerna 400 wasn't impress with menzerna 300 maybe my next ones are sonax cutmax and QG
Menzerna 300 really doesn’t have that much cutting power compared to the 400, specially when you consider how much more dusting and shorter working time it has, not a very compelling product.
 
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