color sanding
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MJM
Promoted Users
v8garage
Promoted Users
On the heavy orange peel I have been using Eagle abrasives on a 6" D/A air sander with a thick interface pad: Yellow Film (dry): P1000, P1200, P1500, P2000; Super Buflex (dry): K2500, K3000; SIA (wet): Siafast 4000; 3M (wet) Trizact 8000. Followed by Presta Ultra 2 Step on a 7" Rotary buffer: MaxCut Compound on a Presta Black and White wool pad, finally Finishing Polish on a Presta Grey foam.
On panels with lighter orange peel I started at 1500, I'm working on the fenders with some flow indicators starting with a Mirka Shark Blade, then Tolecut 800, 1200, 1500 before the D/A work.
I sprayed the cab two years ago with 4 coats of Universal Clear, areas that I knew would need extra cut and polish work got a 5th coat. It was scary taking abrasive to a shiny clear coat, but the results are well worth it.
AAE
Learner
Huge difference. I have found some cheap backing pads that have less aggressive Velcro than the 3m style. I lost my Kovax pad.
Jim C
Oldtimer
I dont use the bufflex foam backup pad. I cant get the disc to stay on it. I find them kind of useless. I also use bufflex wet so that probably has something to do with it. The bufflex has such a flexible backing that with a regular velcro pad its really only cutting on the little tips of the velcro. Prob 60% of the dics surface. The cure to this is when the disc feels like its worn out, pull it off, turn 90 deg and reattach it. It will cut almost like new again. You will get another 25-50% life out of it.
Toolin
Promoted Users
Just beginning to learn that.
Fotunateson
Promoted Users
I’ve read most of this thread with extreme interest so thanks to everyone for my education...
I’m be battling single stage acrylic urethane in a couple of small areas. This thread seems to be dedicated to 2k so I’m not sure my questions will be relevant but here I go. I’ve wet sandedwith 1000, 2200, 1500, 2000, and the Trizac 3000 but after polishing with Presta materials I see under closeup halogen lighting micro scratches. I repeated but they are still there. I stop sandinding when I can’t hear any abrasiveness and then go onto the next finer grit after I have examined it closely under a halogen light.
The other day I just said bugger it and sanded with 600 in prep for a light coat of filler and then 1000 grit to prep for colour ( small area).
But can anyone shed any light on my original problem?
I’m be battling single stage acrylic urethane in a couple of small areas. This thread seems to be dedicated to 2k so I’m not sure my questions will be relevant but here I go. I’ve wet sandedwith 1000, 2200, 1500, 2000, and the Trizac 3000 but after polishing with Presta materials I see under closeup halogen lighting micro scratches. I repeated but they are still there. I stop sandinding when I can’t hear any abrasiveness and then go onto the next finer grit after I have examined it closely under a halogen light.
The other day I just said bugger it and sanded with 600 in prep for a light coat of filler and then 1000 grit to prep for colour ( small area).
But can anyone shed any light on my original problem?
dhutton01
Backyard Hack
Presta cutting compound on a black wool pad is what I used to use years ago. Then follow it with Presta swirl remover.
It works but 3D ACA 500 on their yellow pad is light years better. Follow it with their 520 on a foam pad. Using Trizact 8000 will also help.
Don
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Jim C
Oldtimer
agree with don here. presta was good many years ago. its an old school compound and doesn't compare to what is out there now. 3d 500 and 520 are the way to go. with all that said, it doesnt matter how good the compound is if after the 1000 grit your not sanding enough with each grit to take the scratches out of the prior grit. there is really no way to tell. its just experience with the paper you are using to get a feel for how it works. the 3m 8000 is fantastic stuff......3000 trizact, not so much.
DanMcG
Promoted Users
I have an 8mm (5/16") that I'm guessing is also to agressive of an orbit.
I've been looking at 1/16 units, but would like to find one that is on the low side of air consumption and price.
Jim C
Oldtimer
Yep 3m sanders are great. I have 3 of them that i have used every day for prob 12 years now and they never missed a beat. Just dont buy the one in the link as that is 5”. You need a 6”
dhutton01
Backyard Hack
Doh! Post deleted. I will find the correct one and post it.
dhutton01
Backyard Hack
This is a good deal
3M Random Orbital Sander 20325, 6 in Non-Vacuum 3/16 in Orbit, 1 per case 51141203256 | eBay
3M(TM) random orbital sander. Stikit(TM) pad included. Precision balanced for smooth operation. Optimize to work with 3M abrasives. Maximum resolution per minute: 12000. 0.28 horsepower motor.
www.ebay.com
Don
dhutton01
Backyard Hack
Probably be close. I run mine around 50 psi and usually throttle it down.
DanMcG
Promoted Users
Ya think?
It might be worth a shot, and I could always resell it if it doesn't work. Thanks
I wish I bought the Quency I wanted but that was before I got into this hobby of air hogging tools.
Dean Jenkins
Promoted Users
I'm no expert on compressors and air flow for tools.Ya think?
It might be worth a shot, and I could always resell it if it doesn't work. Thanks
I wish I bought the Quency I wanted but that was before I got into this hobby of air hogging tools.
But, I'm running that 3M sander with a compressor that is rated at 14.1 CFM @ 90 PSI and it works just fine.
I have also observed that there really isn't a scenario where I run the tool continuously for so long that it is only being supplied by the motor and not the storage tank.
Typically run it for 5 minutes, then stop and examine the work, take a sip of coffee, contemplate that state of the world, change the disc, etc. and the tank recharges and I start again. Never had low power due to inadequate air flow.
Probably a different deal at a professional shop where time is money.