color sanding

Slammed, nice work. Looks great!

Sounds like I'm wasting my time and $ with 5000 and 8000 trizact. I ran out of Cutmax, so maybe I'll try ACA500 next.

Another question for you guys. When dry sanding with the Eagle paper, it loads up quickly. How are you all cleaning off the paper?
use guide plenty of guide coat it will tell you exactly what scratches you missed. I also used a silver sharpie as a guide coat with the first cut of 800 wet, it let me know when to stop with the 800 and peel was out. some do 800 dry which works well to. I just find the wet is a little slower but more cautious for someone like me. be careful on the edge of the panel, i did break through on one of the edges with 5 coats. I plan on spotting base here and going with 6 coats next.... just part of the learning process i guess
 

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I cringe every time I see novices using 600 and 800. It is so easy to overdo it and break through. Then you have a bit of a mess on your hands. The juice isn’t worth the squeeze imho….

Tape your edges! Every time I am tempted to skip this step I have a vision of Shine standing there calling me a dumbass…. :D

Don
 
I cringe every time I see novices using 600 and 800. It is so easy to overdo it and break through. Then you have a bit of a mess on your hands. The juice isn’t worth the squeeze imho….

Tape your edges! Every time I am tempted to skip this step I have a vision of Shine standing there calling me a dumbass…. :D

Don

Several members here have suggested using tape (blue painters tape) on edges to avoid burn thrus. My question is, how far to tape away from the edge, 1/4", 1/2", 3/4"?

2nd question, why blue painters tape vs say yellow or green tape?
 
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I cringe every time I see novices using 600 and 800. It is so easy to overdo it and break through. Then you have a bit of a mess on your hands. The juice isn’t worth the squeeze imho….

Tape your edges! Every time I am tempted to skip this step I have a vision of Shine standing there calling me a dumbass…. :D

Don
yes sir and thats what exactly happen to me... Don when you say tape the edges is that taping the edge and fold it on the face of the panel thats being sanded by say 1/16 of a inch or so?
 
Just a skooch is all you need to protect the edge. Just enough for the tape to be able to stick. The protected area extends beyond the tape due to the thickness of the tape.

I use 3M yellow tape. Never had an issue using it. Here’s an example.
0DC7F95B-CC4A-4C56-941E-EC8F2E705112.jpeg


Don
 
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There are many different techniques, compounds, and sanding recommendations. Eventually you will find the one that works for you.
As for edges and body lines, I personally do not tape them. The key is to make sure the buffer is rotating "off" the edge and not into it.

Wet sanding (color sanding) in my opinion should never start with a grit lower than 1000. The only exception is if you plan to do a flow coat process.

I like to use 1000 on a hard block for the initial cutting. (Like Barry said, one section at a time.) The hard block will remove any urethane wave and orange peel present. From there you are refining scratches so I like to switch to a soft block and 1500, followed by 2000. Personally, I have never seen the need to go with the higher grits.

A wool pad and Meguiars M-100 makes short work of 1500-2000 grit scratches. (Yes, a squirt bottle with water is a big help. as Chris said.) From there I use a medium cut foam pad and Chemical Guys V36 followed by a polishing pad and Menzerna Super Finish 3800.

In my limited experience I have found that Black is the ultimate test for buffing as it acts like a mirror when scratch free.
 
I only tape edges for sanding, not for buffing. I don’t think I have ever broke through buffing. Besides you have to remove the tape to sand the edge. I like to use Tolecut squares and their blocks to carefully sand edges. Makes quick work of it. An awesome tip from Texasking. They work great on viscosity test strips too… ;)

Don
 
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I only tape edges for sanding, not for buffing. I don’t think I have ever broke through buffing. Besides you have to remove the tape to sand the edge. I like to use Tolex squares and their blocks to carefully sand edges. Makes quick work of it. An awesome tip from Texasking. They work great on viscosity test strips too… ;)

Don
Sorry to ask again don , not sure if Iam undersanding this (Tolex squares and their blocks to carefully sand edges) can you explain? what grit? Iam asumming the yellow foam block they have?
 
Sorry to ask again don , not sure if Iam undersanding this (Tolex squares and their blocks to carefully sand edges) can you explain? what grit? Iam asumming the yellow foam block they have?
Sorry I should have said Tolecut. They sell various starter kits.


Don
 
Mr. Shine,
What kind of white shoe polish do you use? The paste or liquid?
i haven't used it in years but i took a look and not sure it is the same any more. it use to be a latex base and would wash off . i looked at kiwi which is the old brand and it list some kind of polymer . i would just use white pounce powder instead. i've been using pounce powder for years. lot cheaper than the guide coat they sell .
 
i haven't used it in years but i took a look and not sure it is the same any more. it use to be a latex base and would wash off . i looked at kiwi which is the old brand and it list some kind of polymer . i would just use white pounce powder instead. i've been using pounce powder for years. lot cheaper than the guide coat they sell .
I've been using the black on your recommendation.
 
i first used pounce powder back in the erly 70's . i used a star wheel and pounce powder to do pinstriping . then i discovered it worked far better as a guide coat instead of lacquer .
 
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i first used pounce powder back in the erly 70's . i used a star wheel and pounce powder to do pinstriping . then i discovered it worked far better as a guide coat instead of lacquer .
I've had the same jar for almost 2 years and I use it almost daily.
 
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