color sanding

shine

Member
i see post after post of guys polishing and still having sand scratches . just about every one of them used 800 . let me tell you 800 is tuff to get rid of. 800 is aggressive 1000 is not . your gonna have to work your butt off with the 1000 . if not your gonna have shiny 800 scratches . personally i dont use 800 for clear unless i'm recoating .
 
On my current project, I'm going to try the 3M Trizact system. 1500, 3000, 8000, then polish. Looking forward to see how it works. Really like the idea of not compounding.
 
On my current project, I'm going to try the 3M Trizact system. 1500, 3000, 8000, then polish. Looking forward to see how it works. Really like the idea of not compounding.
I dont know what others think of the 1500 trizac, but I think its garbage. I've never used the 8000 but I've wanted to try it. For me, from 1500 on its with DA and 3m purple paper or eagle dry.

Ill usually soft block with 1500 and then da with 1500 then 2000 then 3000 trizac..


I've tried changing my process up so many times, but I cant get the desired results I am looking for with any other way. SO I just suck it up and do it. I only start with 800 over 1000 because I feel it breaks through the clear initially easier. I used to start with 600, but found 800 is just as good for me.

Keep in mind this is not to obtain a "factory" finish. This is for a flat finish.
 
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Oh for sure. I wasn't disagreeing with you one bit. I usually use a guide coat after 800 and 1000.
 
I've tried skipping 1200 even and end up just working harder with 1500 to get the 1000 scratches out, its just easier to go through all the steps.
 
If you are starting with 800 you better be using a guide coat after that. Just my personal opinion. Most of not all of my jobs start with 800 after 4 coats of clear. then 1000,1200,1500,2000,3000 its a process, but it is what it is.
What guide coat is available for wet sanding? I use a sharpie marker sometimes
 
Eagle Assilex orange, peach, then blue Buflex wet. I have seen no need to go finer. Blue Buflex buffs very easy with wool and ACA 500. Orange Assilex seems to cut as well as the 1000 yellow without the scratches seeming so hard to get rid of.
I just started using those. I really like them but man, are they thin and flimsy.
 
Eagle Assilex orange, peach, then blue Buflex wet. I have seen no need to go finer. Blue Buflex buffs very easy with wool and ACA 500. Orange Assilex seems to cut as well as the 1000 yellow without the scratches seeming so hard to get rid of.
Are you using discs on a DA or sheets on a hand sanding pad?

Thanks,
Don
 
There might be a place for 800, but a very limited one. If the orange peel is fine, tight, or even dry, there's no point. In fact it's probably way too much because the mils probably aren't there. But if there is an area where the finish went on wet, almost too wet, you might see a zone where the peel gets into a kind of rolling look, the stage just before a sag will form. These are the kind of areas that can be rescued and flattened with a hard block and some 800. But all that said, everything in this thread about 800 scratches applies. Just a rule of thumb, I'd probably count on sanding twice as long with 1200 as I went with 800.

I tend to get that rolling look sometimes on white truck bed sides. Also because like Hub used to say, I paint in 3D. Dark, damp, and dirty.
 
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