I've done a lot of solid color single stage urethane with clear over the top. I usually let the single stage cure for 3-4 days, shrink, do what it is going to do and then 600 it and clear it. I've been happy with the result other than labor intense. It does, to me, give better depth than base/clear. But a friend says he's been doing the same for 4-5 years and NOT sanding. He shoots the single stage, lets it cure over night and hits it unsanded the next morning with clear. Anyone else doing it this way??
Clearing single stage urethane
- Thread starter Bartman
- Start date
jlcustomz
evil painter
I've done it with lesser quality paints & will be doing it with spi black soon. Barry's only needed instruction I noticed was let dry overnight, rather than spraying after flash time of single stage. No need to sand unless you have something to sand out or if you've let it cure to the point where you needed mechanical adhesion.. Basecoat is a weak link compared to single stage, which is part of my reason for single/ clear.
C
cwlo
What do people recommend 3 coats single stage, 3 coats clear? Any concerns about thickness?
With these types of products, six coats is not excessive, rule most people do is two coats for full coverage of the SS and a third to make sure.
Followed by 2 PLUS coats of clear and from what i hear 3 to 4 are the norm, depending on the job and what they are trying to achieve.
Followed by 2 PLUS coats of clear and from what i hear 3 to 4 are the norm, depending on the job and what they are trying to achieve.
Can't say as it depends on product. If universal clear I have ZERO concerns at 9 coats BUT the big boys warn you starting to go backwards at 3 coats.
SS itself is good and stable so 2-3 coats of that is not much of a concern.
Start getting 4 and more coats of base scares me more then anything, other than custom as that is a whole new game.
SS itself is good and stable so 2-3 coats of that is not much of a concern.
Start getting 4 and more coats of base scares me more then anything, other than custom as that is a whole new game.
anotheridiot
Member
I would think it depends if you plan on doing the color sanding of the SS product and the amount of peel you might see before you start clearing.
MikeS
Camaro Nut
Is that 9 coats clear only?
I guess what matters is how thick in mils is a coat and that probably depends in part of how wet or dry it's applied.
My thinking is a HS clear is safer as thickness is concerned being it would be a stronger film due to more binders?
Anyhow, I was just curious and only asked because I have seen so many cracked clears over the years but that was with older acrylic lacquer.
From what I have been reading, and think understand, is a HS clear polyurethane is pretty strong and more flexible compared to acrylic urethane.
Mike
I guess what matters is how thick in mils is a coat and that probably depends in part of how wet or dry it's applied.
My thinking is a HS clear is safer as thickness is concerned being it would be a stronger film due to more binders?
Anyhow, I was just curious and only asked because I have seen so many cracked clears over the years but that was with older acrylic lacquer.
From what I have been reading, and think understand, is a HS clear polyurethane is pretty strong and more flexible compared to acrylic urethane.
Mike
crashtech
Combo Man & Mod
Once I did a dark red SS job that was to be sanded and cleared, except before starting, 2 test panels were made, one with just SS and clear with no sanding, and one where the SS was sanded and cleared. Turns out that they looked different out in the light! Sanding single stage will disturb some pigments, and sometimes one coat of the SS needs to be applied after sanding to restore the proper color and ensure a consistent look to the finish. I would want to try the no-sand option on a piece of scrap metal, then sand through it to see if it is sticking. If it doesn't, you'll have to find a way to slow the cure down on the SS or do the sanding procedure.
C
Charlie D
This thread is very interesting to me. I have color sanded the SS solid color and know there is a problem if I break through to epoxy primer/seal coat. I have never color sanded BC/CC but I assume there is a problem if a person breaks through to the base coat. I am wondering if there is a problem if a person breaks through the clear coat and gets into the SS while color sanding?
Charlie D.
Charlie D.
O
Overspray
…. what is interesting to me is why someone would want to apply clear over a single stage urethane job in the first place. For depth ? No. Depth is created by the pigment and solids in a paint. Otherwise bc/cc would be paint jobs with unlimited depth and we all know that is not the case and just the opposite. Single Stage Urethanes when they cure create their own mini clear outer yet slightly pigmented layer coat yet with the majority of pigment increasing as it goes to the core of the layer. One can however, pigment the clear coats as mentioned in a decreasing manner as applied for each coat. This would then lend to increasing the depth. But applying what amounts to a clear nail polish glossy look over a color saturated urethane has always puzzled me. Just my take on this ….
