clear wrinkle after a few months

B

bmxpegan411

Hi Guys,

the first thing I sprayed with spi products was an extra valve cover just to get the feel of everything. I used spi epoxy, dupont nason base and spi euro 2020 clear. I did put the stuff on heavy. It looked good for the first month or so but then it started to kind of wrinkle all over.

on another note, after doing the valve cover I proceeded to get the front bumper, hood, and fender of the car (all same products) done over the next few weeks. The car is sitting in the sun and it doesn't seem to have any of these except for one or two small spots. The valve cover sat inside, sometimes by the window and it's all over, so I assumed the car had it more rough. Do you guys have any idea what this could be, or what caused it? Capture.JPG
 
Best I can tell the base cannot stand the heat????

OR
Base not flashed long enough and heat is trying to cook out the solvent.
 
Barry;30080 said:
Best I can tell the base cannot stand the heat????

OR
Base not flashed long enough and heat is trying to cook out the solvent.

Barry,

thanks for the replies. The thing is the valve cover sat inside and the car out in the sun, with a few 90+ days in a row.
as for flash times that could be it, because I was just winging it pretty much. I'll inspect the car and see if any more showed up.

for the base on the car I am keeping I'm using DuPont Chromabase, and I think the can says 15 minutes flash...but I read on here you guys give alot of time between coats of base. What would you suggest? The longer the better?
 
The tech sheets for most major brands are written for high production shops, maybe you could get away with 15 minutes flash time inside of a 100K spray boot, so take them with a grain of salt.

So yes the longer the better when it comes to basecoat flash times.

Is there any particular reason you're choosing Chromabase for your project? If it was my hard earned money I'd go with a different brand that doesn't force me to use their 'special' basemaker, I'd find a basecoat that allows me to use the high quality SPI reducer in it, just my no so humble opinion :D
 
Jorge M.;30083 said:
The tech sheets for most major brands are written for high production shops, maybe you could get away with 15 minutes flash time inside of a 100K spray boot, so take them with a grain of salt.

So yes the longer the better when it comes to basecoat flash times.

Is there any particular reason you're choosing Chromabase for your project? If it was my hard earned money I'd go with a different brand that doesn't force me to use their 'special' basemaker, I'd find a basecoat that allows me to use the high quality SPI reducer in it, just my no so humble opinion :D

Thanks for the info.

I'm using Chromabase because I read that Dupont made Aston Racing Green for Aston Martin's and that's the color I was after. I never bought any other basecoat as this is my first paint job. Also, something else I wanted to ask about, since it's wayyyy too late now...the shop I bought the paint from didn't give me dupont reducer or "basemaker." After a little reading I heard that eventually Dupont was able to use normal reducers in Chromabase, and I assume this is why I got what I got. I'll have to get a picture of the can, but it's "5 Star" brand or something. Can anybody chime in about this?
 
From what I've read 5 Star is a bottom of the barrel used car lot economy line-but I've never used it so take that for what it is... I'll bet the solvent didn't flash out of the base well and now you're seeing a fight for it to get out causing the wrinkling you're seeing. Post up a picture of the reducer, are you sure it wasn't lacquer thinner? Cut into one of those wrinkles with knife-do you smell 5 star?
 
5 Star...:disgust:

I'd hesitate to clean my gun with that stuff.

I'm pretty sure Chomabase and Chroma Premiere both need special reducer.
 
im gonna tell you thats a cast aluminum valve cover and by the pics it looks to me like thats corrosion on the aluminum. see stuff like that every day on boats. the aluminum wasnt cleaned completely and there might have been some pits in it. aluminum's version of rust. if you were to scrape those little spots away down to metal i bet you would find its kinda white and powdery underneath.
 
crashtech;30101 said:
5 Star...:disgust:

I'd hesitate to clean my gun with that stuff.

I'm pretty sure Chomabase and Chroma Premiere both need special reducer.

HI Crash,

pretty horrible news since I already used so much of it...so far everything that's painted with 5 star and chromabase seems perfectly fine, no issues yet. The oldest part painted with that combo is going on a month, so hopefully a few more give no surprises.

My question is why is 5 star, or any bottom of the barrel reducer so bad? what makes one better than the other? I'll try to get a pic of my can tonight. It has stars on the top and it says premier or something, can't find a pic by searching google of the exact one.
 
thanks Jim! yeah, it could have been dirty because I just wanted to test the gun and paint before I went to the car. The valve cover was scuffed with a scotch brite and hit with some degreaser of some sort, haha...i didn't take the time to really clean it since It's just a spare.

Looking at the car that was painted with nason base/reducer like the valve cover it seems fine still, after about 2 months of sitting in direct sunlight. Hopefully the chromabase/5 star works out too
 
Low quality reducers usually can have a high moisture content which messes with anything that has an iso based cat. They also tend to have cheaper or lower grade solvents in them
 
The low quality solvents usually include methanol, which is "hygroscopic," meaning it sucks up moisture. Methanol is also corrosive to aluminum, but presumably the epoxy should have prevented any problems along those lines.
 
crashtech;30122 said:
The low quality solvents usually include methanol, which is "hygroscopic," meaning it sucks up moisture. Methanol is also corrosive to aluminum, but presumably the epoxy should have prevented any problems along those lines.

Thanks again guys. With epoxy down first, 2k for straightening, then epoxy reduced as a sealer, what kind of issues may I see down the road with the cheaper reducer? I meant to take a picture of the can but forgot, so I will this weekend, but it's similar to the one pictured because it has the stars across the top and stuff...it's 5 star premier or something, so it's not the exact stuff pictured.5 star.JPG
 
Hi guys,

here's the reducer that I was given. The process I'm using for the Dupont Chromabase is epoxy on bare metal, 2k to straighten it all out, epoxy reduced as a sealer, then the Dupont Chromabase\5 star medium reducer, then Euro 2020 reduced 4:1:1.75ish.

I couldn't really find much online about this exact reducer because when you google 5 star reducer you see alot of the 5 star extreme stuff....Has anybody used this exact one, or know of anybody that has?

Here's the link to the stuff, and it mentions Dupont Chromabase, so that's at least a little comforting:
http://www.5starautobodyproducts.com/thinners/qbr.html5 star.JPG
 
You're using good materials for your project, except for the 5 star reducer they sold you. I think it's worth it for you to buy some better reducer as it will not compromise the quality and durability of your paintjob, especially with a dark color like the one you have, dark colors take longer to flash and let all the solvents out before the clearcoat.

If you haven't read the SPI Perfect Paintjob, it's worth checking out and paying close attention to the basecoat part, it will give you a better idea and understanding of why it's very important to have a high grade quality reducer and giving long flash times between coats of base and before clearcoat.

http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/perfect paint.htm
 
Jim C;30106 said:
im gonna tell you thats a cast aluminum valve cover and by the pics it looks to me like thats corrosion on the aluminum. see stuff like that every day on boats. the aluminum wasnt cleaned completely and there might have been some pits in it. aluminum's version of rust. if you were to scrape those little spots away down to metal i bet you would find its kinda white and powdery underneath.

Im no paint expert , but that exactly what I thought when I saw it at first. It looks like contamination thats trying to get out.
 
Yes and its especially bad on cast alum. The pits and texture in it hold salts and other stuff that oxidizes the alum under the paint. Alum should always be blasted. Chromabase needs a reactive reducer but i dont think thats the issue at all.
 
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