clear coating door jambs

[Dave C 5]

on a project I am working on it's starting to make sense that I paint and clear coat under the hood; hinges, inside edge of fenders, also the same for trunk. I figured I may as well do door jambs too. This paint I am using needs to be painted with car all together (not a seasoned veteran) plus I need to lay out stripes. My question is.....does the car have to be taped off and protected from the clear coat overspray ? especially along the edge where it will be the heaviest ? I guess I'm thinking that if I don't, then when I spray the basecoat on the outside of the car it is possible that the basecoat will get under the clear coat edge (overspray edge) and wrinkle ? am I right ?

 

[jcclark]

Any openings between panels will let clearcoat overspray in.
You need to tape them off. I usually tape off at the first inside corner just inside
the door jam and spray my last coat of clear real heavy at the gap, it does
leave a small tape line but it's very unnoticeable. Sometimes I lightly sand
the tape line and polish it smooth.
For a show car quality paint job, it's best to remove the doors and paint everything
at once. No paint lines that way.

 

[Dave C 5]

if I do my door jambs and hood/trunk jambs first....then shut the doors, trunk and hood....making sure to back tape the jambs and such off---when I paint the body of the car will the base coat lift the clearcoat edge that I already sprayed? if I didn't get everything taped ? everything is in primer now, what I was hoping to do was go ahead and paint/clear my jambs and not worry about overspray lets say on the rockers....then go ahead and close everything up, back tape and paint the outside of the car. Will the overspray of clear that I get on the rockers or fenders lift/wrinkle when I hit them with base coat ? just like when a repair is done where you sand through the clear-basecoat sometimes wrinkles from getting under the edge....will it do the same when it gets under the overspray edge ?

 

[crashtech]

It depends on the material, but if you are going to let the overspray blow onto the outside, the outside has to be sanded prior to jambing, and then re-sanded prior to exterior paint.

 

[Dave C 5]

ok thanks....what I'm trying to avoid is opening and closing the hood mainly. I have to get the inside fender edges under the hood and his hinges. The car is put together right now so I can lay out stripes. The paint he wants is a pearl metallic that I don't think I can get to match if I paint it apart. My thinking was to spray the hinges and fender edges under the hood-clear coat- then shut hood and "jamb" (tape) it. I just wondered when I got to the exterior base a couple days later if the clear coat edge would lift. I read where people do the jambs and all first then close everything up and do the exterior. I've never done it---just trying to save a step by not taking the hood off I guess

 

[crashtech]

Even with experience, the right way to tackle a job can require a lot of thought. You say "pearl metallic," but what is it, really? A 2-stage, or a 3-stage? Light or dark?

 

[Dave C 5]

it's actually a 2 stage...one of those faux candies. It is "orange glow". I went ahead and taped it off last night. I think the easiest thing for me to do is the outside of the car along with the door jambs (doors open), then just remove the hood and trunk to get the underside after I tape off the surface of the car- I was trying to avoid removing anything.. I guess any overspray can be easily removed from the clear coat. The tricky part will be at the front of the doors- it's a chevelle and they fold into the fender when they open- opportunity for runs there. This isn't a high dollar restoration and it was such a pain to get all the panels lined up - don't want to take it apart- that and if I get a chip or to trying to assemble then fixing it will be a pain with this paint...I have a hard time with metallic repairs, I usually end up repainting a panel.