Clausen All-U-Need vs Slick Sand?
- Thread starter theastronaut
- Start date
mehal
Member
theastronaut - another question as I noticed the way you were working the door/fender on that early F100. When you run the material across a body seam like that do you cut the actual gap before or after the material dries? I have a 61 M-100 Unibody (Merc F100) that I am going to start on next and I'm going to try your process since the Bronco I'm doing now has been taking a lot of time.
theastronaut
Promoted Users
After blocking, that way the hardened filler keeps the panels from moving any while blocking. Plus, if you try to squeegee it off while it's wet it can pull off too much and leave the filler rounded over at the panel edges, making low spots. Use a straight edge to get all the panel edges even before skimming so you don't use as much filler on the panel edges. I hate seeing show cars that are laser straight but the edges of the panels are 5/16" thick from excess filler build up to make the transitions even. I have an 1/8 bit I use in a pneumatic grinder to open the gaps back up; it's not very aggressive so cuts the filler fairly quickly but won't dig into the metal.
If you're wanting smooth transitions from one panel to the next, check out the tips section on True Blox website.
Select, it spreads and sands the best. I tried some version of Rage years ago and didn't care for it, way back before 3M bought Marson and it was sold as Marson Platinum. I don't have any recent experience with Rage though.
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
@theastronaut @dhutton01 How is the chip resistance of the Clausen product? Just got a big job in and considering going this way. Oh and what color is the Clausen stuff.
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
@theastronaut Another question for you. I think I read you are going directly to sealer with it? Is that working out good?
dhutton01
Backyard Hack
Chip resistance seems good, I apply it over SPI epoxy within the recoat window. Rust Defender is a unique color. All U Need is the same product, just available in several colors. Here is a pic of Rust Defender on my 56 Cameo. The door has a little black epoxy overspray.
Don
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
Nice looking truck Don. Another question for you sir. What price point should I be looking for? Found some on Ebay for $185 a gallon. Is that in range?
dhutton01
Backyard Hack
That is the price I pay but I don’t have any kind of a relationship with a jobber. The price really shot up, I used to pay $105. Sort of chapped me but I don’t want to mess with a new unknown product. Better the devil I know….
Don
I have sprayed dozens of gallons of the rust defender, always liked it. I remember getting it for $60 a gallon through O'Reilly many years ago! The price shooting up so high got me to try the Evercoat products and I have never gone back. I would say most are comparable to the z chrome. Just sprayed some Optex Superbuild and that stuff goes on thick. Seems to sand pretty easy and has a built in guide coat.
dhutton01
Backyard Hack
Yes. It sprays pink, but when dry a lot of the pink goes away. It sands to a light gray, and the built in guide coat is kinda cool. Saves a step, and a lot of guide coat. Mixing is also easy at 4:1. If anyone tries it, make sure it is less than a year old. The shelf life is one year, and not long after it will dry solid in the can like it has been catalyzed. It is the only Evercoat poly I have seen do this.
dhutton01
Backyard Hack
Chris make sure you start a build thread here and on the relevant forums. Start using Instagram. Use this job to showcase your work and generate more business.
Don
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
Thanks Don. I plan to. 
jlcustomz
evil painter
Never tried the Claussen, partly because it was always one of those tv show used products, as well as not sold by my local jobbers I had cash account with. I'm sure it's a fine good quality product for it's uses, but I never had g-2 give me bad results or a down the road issue, so just stuck with my devil. Now our local finishmaster stores are gone, so I may be stuck ordering online.
Man, that’s sweet. I love that truck.Yes, epoxy to seal bare metal then skim coat, then epoxy to seal that, then 4 coats of poly to have enough primer for heavy blocking to get the body as straight as possible. It also builds thick enough to be able to sharpen/straighten the details of body lines, edges, etc. It's more stable than 2K and doesn't shrink like 2k or epoxy. The bed floor I just sprayed with Slick Sand went on at 28-30 mils thick with four medium-wet coats.
This is the last truck I did with poly. It's great for use after skimming to get the entire side of a car dead straight, especially when blocking across assembled panels.
