Clausen All-U-Need vs Slick Sand?

Yup. Watching car shows on the TV years back and their slathering all this Rage Gold all over everything and I'm thinking G2 would be easier because it's what I do but who am I.
My can of Rage dried up from non use. Work or replace the metal and some Evercoat metal glaze,G2 and get it on. Epoxy first always of course. Shine enlightened me on Epoxy to Paint long ago and staying with as Few different Products under your Paint as possible.
As for it costing more,maybe now,but Rage was way higher back in '05 iir. Probably because the TV guy's were using it I imagine. But if given the option of spraying or applying with a spreader......
 
Aviator- I did

aviator, I did second method you described exactly... I loved the results
That looks fantastic!

I just put evercoat on my doors, hood, trunk and fenders today. First time using it. Learning cuuuurve I must say. I thought I would be able to cover more real estate before kicking, nope. It took me most of the day as I had to break things into sections and clean the board and spreaders between each go.
 
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That looks fantastic!

I just put evercoat on my doors, hood, trunk and fenders today. First time using it. Learning cuuuurve I must say. I thought I would be able to cover more real estate before kicking, nope. It took me most of the day as I had to break things into sections and clean the board and spreaders between each go.
I use filler to get it 98-99% there, then the poly to get it perfect straight ... rust defender was $160 a year or so ago and now off the charts... hence anther reason to get it almost there in the filler stage.
 
I use filler to get it 98-99% there, then the poly to get it perfect straight ... rust defender was $160 a year or so ago and now off the charts... hence anther reason to get it almost there in the filler stage.
Yep, basically if I can see it I am trying to fill it. Ill leave anything that is hard to see for Clausens.
 
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That looks fantastic!

I just put evercoat on my doors, hood, trunk and fenders today. First time using it. Learning cuuuurve I must say. I thought I would be able to cover more real estate before kicking, nope. It took me most of the day as I had to break things into sections and clean the board and spreaders between each go.
When you mix the regular Evercoat Rage Ultra with Rage Ultra Extra you get working times more favorable to large panel work. See attached chart.

evercoat.jpg
 
That looks fantastic!

I just put evercoat on my doors, hood, trunk and fenders today. First time using it. Learning cuuuurve I must say. I thought I would be able to cover more real estate before kicking, nope. It took me most of the day as I had to break things into sections and clean the board and spreaders between each go.

I don't know what outside temperatures you had when spreading but, I can tell you, you'll have a lot more working time if the air and metal temp is 70* or below. I went thru this last year during hot weather and got up at 3:00am to spread filler when it was 65* outside. I opened the garage door and let the cool air bring down the body panels temps for an hour before spreading filler. I also left the can of evercoat filler outside in the cool air to bring it's temp down.

When I have a large area to skim coat, I mix up my filler (using quick sheets). Once mixed on the quick sheets, I don't want to leave a "mound" of filler on the quick sheets because the filler will kick much faster being in a mound generating much more heat than say a 1/16 of filler spread out on the quick sheet.

Anyway, when I have mixed a good size mound of filler, I immediately take that mound of filler off the quick sheet and put it on the cool metal. I'm able to work much quicker spreading the filler from the mound of filler on the panel instead of getting filler from the quick sheet, spreading and repeating.
 
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Yep it was pretty warm 82-85 I'd say. Rushing to get this done so I can get epoxy on top before temps so those two variables are working against each other for me. I did figure out that if I mix then leave it spread out it kicks slower. Im on a metal mixing board to so panel and board are roughly the same temp. I would get max 3 mins if I was lucky. So I just worked small batches and divided panels up to concentrate on areas of obvious issues. It wasn't ideal for doing a true skim coat but I'll sand it down and see where I am.

I do have a related question. I started sanding one panel, and I can see I missed a couple spots (first panel). Sanding it I went through empoxy on a couple high spots were most of the issues are. Should I recoat in epoxy before trying to add more filler to adress the low and missed areas? Some are right next to the sand through.
 
Yep it was pretty warm 82-85 I'd say. Rushing to get this done so I can get epoxy on top before temps so those two variables are working against each other for me. I did figure out that if I mix then leave it spread out it kicks slower. Im on a metal mixing board to so panel and board are roughly the same temp. I would get max 3 mins if I was lucky. So I just worked small batches and divided panels up to concentrate on areas of obvious issues. It wasn't ideal for doing a true skim coat but I'll sand it down and see where I am.

I do have a related question. I started sanding one panel, and I can see I missed a couple spots (first panel). Sanding it I went through empoxy on a couple high spots were most of the issues are. Should I recoat in epoxy before trying to add more filler to adress the low and missed areas? Some are right next to the sand through.

You can reapply filler over filler but, you cannot apply filler over and exposed metal. You need to reapply epoxy on the exposed metal. Just remember you'll be applying filler and spraying epoxy at least two or three times on a panel. Look at mopar Jim's threads for his restorations. He epoxies the bare metal first, then spreads filler, sands and reapplies epoxy, and does it again until the body panel is flat. Like I say, you'll be doing this two or three times depending on your damage.

As far as your high spot is concerned, you'll have to make that detrimination on whether applying more filler over it will blend it in with the surrounding surface, or whether you'll need to tap the high spot down.

When adding more filler over filler, blow off the filler dust and wipe the area down with "Sprayway" glass cleaner. If you want to get anal about it, you can also go over the Sprayway glass cleaner with a damp, not soaking wet rag of SPI 710 W&G remover. Blow area off again to make sure the filler is dry.
 
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Let me say using your example about having a low spot next to bare metal high spot. I don't see an issue of applying more filler on that low spot and covering the bare metal high spot, just make sure when you're sanding to keep sanding exposing the metal on that high spot so it can be cover with epoxy on your next spray session.

Maybe one of the pro's will comment on that method ^^^
 
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pretty sure more filler is going to make it higher?

It's your lucky day. I'm getting ready to fix two spots on my passanger side door sill area. The first picture shows two low spots on either side of exposed metal. The exposed metal is not high. Once I skim coat the low spots, sand and reapply epoxy, the area will be flat.
20220906_104331.jpg


Here is a picture of a high spot that needs to be tapped down. Sure I could apply enough filler to blend that high spot in by spreading the filler over a much larger area but, that's not the proper way to make the repair.
20220906_104341.jpg
 
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Oh and Aviator8, if you happen to get a PM explaing what to do, please share that information. I don't care who sent it to you. Their name doesn't matter but, the information does.

Thanks,
 
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If your going to do this mixing it with the rage ultra extra is almost mandatory if the temps are above 72-75.
you wont get all the blade waves with clausen or slicksand. goes on heavy and flows.
Poly primer is that perfectly thin skim coat of filler you wish you could do with a spreader, no spreader marks, no thin or thick spots.
Spray poly costs more but is easier for novices by a wide margin.

Don
+1 to all of this.

Putting aside my personal distaste for this process.....if you are going to use filler everywhere, you need to make sure you sand enough. Which is usually much more than you think is enough if you are a novice. Don't make the mistake of applying it, sanding some, seeing loiw spots and applying more too quickly. You will end up with too much everywhere. You need to apply it as thin as you can, sand it till it is feathering out in places and assess what then needs to be done. When you are done you should have something that doesn't look like it was mummified in filler, rather filler looks like it's filling any lows. You should see a combination of filler and metal poking through.
And yes any bare metal spots that you need to recoat should have epoxy for best results. You can apply filler over metal (done all the time) but you lose the protection and extra adhesion epoxy gives you.
 
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