Clausen All-U-Need vs Slick Sand?

theastronaut

theastronaut

Promoted Users
I've always used Slick Sand over epoxy after filler work but have recently seen quite a few very high-end shops post that they're using Clausen All-U-Need. Has anyone compared the two directly? The fact that it's water/solvent proof is appealing as that's a concern I've had with Slick Sand. How does it sand compared to Slick Sand? Slick Sand isn't the easiest to sand ( I always start with 80 grit) but it builds great and doesn't shrink so I've stuck with it, but I'm open to using other products if they're better.

For reference, I've been shooting epoxy, then skim coating the entire assembled body, a coat of epoxy to seal that, then 3-4 coats of Slick Sand for enough build to really be able to block the body straight. Before I switched to SPI I would shoot a couple coats of PPG sealer/surfacer before light wetsanding and paint, and I was always afraid of breaking through the sealer to Slick Sand. Same thing now except I'm using epoxy as sealer. So it would be great to have a waterproof poly primer, I just haven't heard much feedback on All-U-Need.

Link to product page-

Clausen | The World's Premier Polyester Glazing Putties & Autobody Fillers

www.clausenautobody.com www.clausenautobody.com
 
Clausen Z-Chrome Rust Defender is the same as All U Need just a different color. It costs a little less. I have been using both for several years. It sands easier than Slick Sand imho. I like the built in guide coat for the first round of sanding. I spray it with a Sata poly gun with a 2.5 tip.

Best price I have found is on eBay.

Don
 
Ya it’s not cheap. Price rose dramatically when it started being used by high end builders. I see Rust Defender on high end Instagram builds regularly.

I am very reluctant to try anything else. When you only build a couple of cars per year it’s not a big deal.

Don
 
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Are you guys using All U need in place of 2K primer? I have no idea what polyester primer is used for?
 
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JC Daniel said:
Are you guys using All U need in place of 2K primer? I have no idea what polyester primer is used for?
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Use it when you need more build and filling than what a 2k urethane can provide. More stable in thick coats than 2k urethane is. Urethanes you don't want to go but so thick millage wise. Poly can be applied thicker and shrinks much less than urethane would if applied that thick. Main usage is for Resto/Custom work where you are blocking the entire vehicle. Lot of people equate it to sprayable body filler.
 
JC Daniel said:
Are you guys using All U need in place of 2K primer? I have no idea what polyester primer is used for?
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Yes, epoxy to seal bare metal then skim coat, then epoxy to seal that, then 4 coats of poly to have enough primer for heavy blocking to get the body as straight as possible. It also builds thick enough to be able to sharpen/straighten the details of body lines, edges, etc. It's more stable than 2K and doesn't shrink like 2k or epoxy. The bed floor I just sprayed with Slick Sand went on at 28-30 mils thick with four medium-wet coats.

This is the last truck I did with poly. It's great for use after skimming to get the entire side of a car dead straight, especially when blocking across assembled panels.

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I am trying to learn here guys, I have only been painting about 4 years and need all the help I can get. So if I use body filler and then shoot with poly primer do I need to use 2k over that or seal with epoxy and then color? I really appreciate the help you guys give, I learn everything here or by myself.
 
On the current project I've tried sanding it with 80 to flatten it, then re-blocking with 180 and 220, then 400 on a soft pad. Lots and lots of Mirka dry guide coat in between grits to make sure all previous scratches are removed. Leaves an absolute flat surface ready for sealer and paint if there's no burn through, and there's no risk of adding texture or "urethane wave" back into the panel from spraying heavy coats of epoxy or high build again. I'm usually not to the point of getting it straight enough in filler that there's no burn through on the first round of poly though, so I have to do a second round of poly and blocking. True Blox posts that as their method and they have killer results, so I've been trying their tips to match their quality of work.
 
JC Daniel said:
I am trying to learn here guys, I have only been painting about 4 years and need all the help I can get. So if I use body filler and then shoot with poly primer do I need to use 2k over that or seal with epoxy and then color? I really appreciate the help you guys give, I learn everything here or by myself.
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I think it’s a question of personal preference and what you’re trying to achieve. Either way will work depending on your goals.

Don
 
Slick Sand has always been pretty fool proof for me, but the water/solvent proofness and presumably easier sanding of Clausen's poly may be worth looking into. It's important to have a gun with at least a 2.0 tip if you're doing big areas at a time, I use a 2.5 and don't reduce it. It also has a very short pot life so only mix up enough for one coat at a time, especially in warmer weather. Start blocking with 80 or 100 grit, it has a lot of texture to cut down initially.
 
Worst thing about Clausen is stirring it if you don’t have a shaker. The solids set up pretty hard in the bottom of the can. A wooden stir stick isn’t going to cut it...

Don
 
theastronaut - when you say Bare Metal > Epoxy > Skim-coat > Epoxy, what product are you referring to for "skim coat"?
 
I've sprayed more gallons of Rust Defender than any other poly, going back 20 years or more. Never had an issue with it, and the only reason I even tried Evercoat was because of availability and price going way up on the Clausen. Can't really say if it sanded much easier than Slick Sand because it has been a few years since I've used it.
 
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