chemical guys v series

Do yourself a favor and get the 100. 105 you will get alot of scratches coming back from all the fillers in it. 100 is a much better product.
 
update, got some 100, used 100 then v36 and v38. Car is black out in the sun not all that happy with it. Still see fine scratches that I thought 38 should get rid of. Have gone over the car a few times with black pad and da with v38. I used to use foam pad glaze for dark colors by 3m that did a better job? Any suggestions?
 
Mistake was throwing v32 in trash. v38 isn't for removing scratches. They should be gone before done with v36.
Show photos.
 
Yes the 100 should leave you with damn near a swirl free shine. All scratches should be gone with 100 then you just need a quick pass with a foam pad and polish and its done. No need for 3 steps
 
100 is a compound deferentially not swirl free on black.. Not in direct sun light
 
No but it should get you close with definitely no scratches. It should be such fine swirls that a quick pass with polish is all that is needed. If your having problems then you need to go more with the 100. Either that or your pad can be giving you issues. I have had pads that are loaded or old bits of rock hard compound leave big swirl scratches in the paint
 
Show us photos if you can. Are they scratches or swirls? Did you get a rotary?
I personally never used v38 cause as Jim said, that 1st cut should get it nice, swirls remaining get with the v36.
205 i tried once. I still have a few splatter spots i couldn't remove. That stuff & m105 went in trash.
 
ill get photos tomorrow they are fine swirls what I think v38 should take care of. Mind you this is in direct sun light inside car looks great, I would think doing a three step should have been better. This is the third time painting this car in the last 28 years. I have polished this car many times before. I have always used 3m products. I did 100 and v36 with a rotary.
 
Ive found for myself that using an intermediate step helps a lot. I take the extra step because I have trouble like you if I dont, I havent found the right combo for a 2 step process. I probably switch off of wool early, I just dont like working it compared to foam. Anyhow typically after compounding with wool I will use a quality compound (Sonax CutMax) or a heavy polish with an orange pad. That cleans it up and gets you to a fine polish step.
 
dant said:
update, got some 100, used 100 then v36 and v38. Car is black out in the sun not all that happy with it. Still see fine scratches that I thought 38 should get rid of. Have gone over the car a few times with black pad and da with v38. I used to use foam pad glaze for dark colors by 3m that did a better job? Any suggestions?
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Menzerna FF3800 for removing fine scratches. Use a polishing pad.
 
What size pads are you guys using? I have the 3m perfect it backup pad that uses the Hookit system and 8” pads.
 
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CK-2 said:
Probably a stupid question but are all of these on a rotary buffer? Different buffer for each size?
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I bought one of these: https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWP849X-7-Inch-Variable-Polisher/dp/B004W1WGIC only at a better price a while back.
7" seems to be a good size for almost everything and only in rare cases have I had to use a 3" pad. Using a hook n loop, flexible pad on the buffer will allow you to get into some of the curved areas a bit better.
I have been using the Lake Country CCS foam pads and twisted wool but there are others I have been wanting to try.

Get a tool for cleaning the dried compound from the pads.
 
Wool my main one is about 7.5 inch I think, I have a 3.5 inch I use in tight spots. Foam is 5.5 inch or I have 3.5 inch for tight spots.

Use them all on the same Dewalt buffer 68 posted, switching backing pads as needed. On rare occasion I use a drill in awkward spots I probably shouldn't have been buffing in the first place.
 
Jim C said:
for foam i am using the hexlogic pads from cg, yellow for cut, blk for polish. for wool just a std wool cutting pad. brand varies. some are meguires some are lake country i think. just your basic tan twisted wool from autogeek where i get the 3d compound from.

ill add for those guys on a budget and just need to keep cost down then the m100 compound 68 is using is by far the best i have used for the money. it is good stuff. if an extra 20 bucks per qt doesnt bother you then i would rate these as #1 3d aca500, #2 sonax cutmax #3 meguires m100. the chemical guys compounds are ones that i have not tried at all so im not sure how those compare. a friend of mine had the heaviest cut stuff and it was really gritty which i dont like. gritty usually leaves a swirly finish that you need to work out with a mid grade polish then a fine polish to finish. i really dont want to do 3 steps. shine has recommended these for years but the other reason i havent used them is the packaging size. these are clearly meant for the car owner not a professional shop since they are only avail in i believe 16oz bottles for the largest size. why on earth would a shop or any professional who uses this stuff daily buy a product in those sizes. it should be available in qt or gallons.
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I saw you say that you only do two steps now? Are you using the yellow CG pad for cut or wool? Then black for polish? What polish are you using. Thanks.
 
Just finished using the Chem Guys V series buffing a black bc/cc job. Universal Clear, 5 coats, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, 3000 Trizact, 5000 Trizact (using it up before getting the 8000). Other compounds I've used in the past I could 2 step it and then remove any fine swirls with 3M ultrafina and the Utrafina blue pad after I put everything back together. I ordered the orange, white and black hexlogic pads and the 4 V series compounds. Got to say I was not very impressed with how the V32 and V34 cut. Took a long time to do the initial cut. Started with the orange pad and V34 seeing how I took it out to 5000 trizact. Ended up using the V32 and the orange pad to get the initial scratches out. Probably could have spent more time with all the grits but nothing to glaring. This is with UV Clear which buffs easy. Can't imagine how that stuff would work well with a really hard clear. Not impressed. Mainly in the time it took. Once done it looks great but that first step took 2X as long as it would take with other compounds I've used. Plus don't like the fact it's only available in 16 oz bottles. Gonna try some of the stuff JimC recommends on the next one.
 
I tried the V32 and was not impressed either. I switch to Sonax and it is a good compound. I have been trying the M-100 lately and while I like it I believe I still like Sonax more. I am still using up my V36 and V38 to finish out the process after the initial compound step, but I agree with Jim that really you should only need one polish after the compound stage. I prefer a 2 step process. My question is which polishes are you guys using to finish out a job?
 
Funny just did a small job on my frame machine for a man who is a painter for a Audi dealership and I respect his judgement and produces top quality paint work said he was not impressed with Gy compounds either. At dealership they use Wizard products and OK. At home shop he also likes the line Jim C is using.
 
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