Cheap Guns- Got What I Paid For

looks very similar to the cheap mini gun i mentioned. the coating is just paint on it so i know that is coming off but it sprays great and for 9 bucks i can just toss it if it gets trashed or gelcoat kicks off in it. that one you posted isnt a mini gun so prob not the same.
 
i have another cheap full size from amazon very similar to that blue one. we never clean it. it stays full of water and carbon black. its our guide coat gun. give it a shake, spray and put it back in the cabinet. i think that one was 16 bucks lol. there is a use case for the cheap crappy amazon guns but laying down a coat of automotive paint isnt one.
 
I agree. This one was $30. It was a stretch trying to find a cheap primer gun. I'd like to think the throwaway philosophy makes sense and I keep trying to live by it, but I have to admit it's really just smarter in the long run to have quality 'tools' at your disposal and quit monkeying around with inadequate junk trying to make it work.

I have that HF purple gun that I drilled out the tip to make it closer to a 2.0mm but like Crash warned it leaks. It sprays paint when you first hit the trigger, kinda like that gun I posted above did. I still haven't tried using the lapping compound on the needle and tip though. It just doesn't seem worth my time at this point. I've got that FLG I'm not crazy about either, but it's better. I think I've graduated the purple gun phase.
 
I was going to share some info on the purple gun that I don't hear talked about that I have found out while buying the last couple for whoever is interested and maybe it will help you have a better experience.
I have found that not all purples are created equal. If you've bought much of anything from HF you have noticed that they go by a model numbering scheme that can be kinda confusing. They will have a product and maybe it has several different model numbers. At first glance they all look the same, but usually there's some small difference causing the different number. Well I've found that this is true for the purples.
There is a gun that I believe was close to the original design that utilizes a nozzle that also incorporates the 'air-diffuser' and uses the stupid multi-tool. The multi-tool that likes to bend and lose it's shape and slip trying to unscrew that nozzle which only has room for the tool, you can't say use a wider adjustable wrench or open-end wrench on it. I hate that design. I wish I could find a pic, but I bet everyone knows what I'm on about.
There is another version of the gun where this part is completely different and instead of the tool, you can remove the nozzle from the air diffuser with a 12mm open-end wrench. I took some pictures of the one I bought to modify while I was cleaning it out. This is a superior design and if you can buy this. I found that the version of the purple gun that came with the separate regulator to put on the gun has this version. I also bought two of the bare, gun only, versions and got one of each. I cannot say if the model number comes into play with this nozzle change, but it would be worthwhile to open any purple gun box before you purchase to make certain it has the better nozzle. The better nozzle is also black not chrome. HF likes to use thread locker on all these parts now making getting the older version risky to take apart in the first place. I find the thread locker isn't necessary.
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so to follow up.......

i bought that porphis 338 mini gun in a 1.2. what a great gun! its not quite as chunky a sata but not as thin and tiny as an lph-80. taking it apart, i can see there have been influences from about every gun company out there. some things are very sata, others are iwata and so on. has a good feel in your hand and everything seems built well but doesn't have as quality of a feel to it as a sata. it has a very devilbiss feel to it. trigger spring is quite a bit heavier than my sata. machining is on par with sata. atomizes fantastic, has an even fan that you can actually adjust. fan adjust on my sata is either on or off. very impressive for the price of $140. i could buy 4 of these for the price of a minijet 4400. a new cup for it is 20 bucks. a cup for my minijet is $140.
 
I really want to buy the 817 and the 725 but I have no reason to other than I am bored on the internet.
 
Treeslayer said:
out of curiosity, does any one use the super nova guns? i am curious if it really does fill edge to edge and how that would affect overlap.
Click to expand...
I have the Supernova WS-400 EVO, and use it for base and clear.

If I understand your question, you're asking whether the Supernova fan has a flatter material distribution across its width, and if that means the usual 50% overlap puts too much material in the overlap area. Is that what you mean?

I used 50% overlap and it worked good.
 
Dean Jenkins said:
I have the Supernova WS-400 EVO, and use it for base and clear.

If I understand your question, you're asking whether the Supernova fan has a flatter material distribution across its width, and if that means the usual 50% overlap puts too much material in the overlap area. Is that what you mean?

I used 50% overlap and it worked good.
Click to expand...
yes sir, thank you. i have trouble with overlap, but not all colors. its weird, some i can see fine and some fool me.
i do dislike the thin on the edges of the fan, even on a better gun. i just wondered if the super nova created a problem with being too much paint on the edges for traditional overlap.
in other news........i really should have done the doors first, would have been easier with the fenders off. drivers side was close to perfect, passengers side is being a bear. or some other B word.
 
Treeslayer said:
yes sir, thank you. i have trouble with overlap, but not all colors. its weird, some i can see fine and some fool me.
i do dislike the thin on the edges of the fan, even on a better gun. i just wondered if the super nova created a problem with being too much paint on the edges for traditional overlap.
in other news........i really should have done the doors first, would have been easier with the fenders off. drivers side was close to perfect, passengers side is being a bear. or some other B word.
Click to expand...
Easiest way to get a 50% overlap is to point the nozzle at the edge of the previous pass. At least that is what I do.
 
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