Catastrophic masking failure

robking

robking

ID10T error
Sigh.... Two steps forward three steps back.

Sprayed the trunk after carefully (or so I thought) masking between the interior and the trunk area, and covering the car with 3M plastic drape. Plastic made a great tent to hold overspray in when masking paper came loose (which I couldn't see from outside).

Trunk came out great! Interior and engine bay not so much.

Thankfully most of what got overspray is still to be wet sanded or will be hidden by carpet etc. However what made it's way to the engine bay got all over chrome, hoses and the inner fenders.

Clay bar isn't touching it, reducer takes it off the chrome nicely. Biggest headache is the inner fenders. Again clay bar not touching it, I tried reducer on small area and it does take it off as well as any shine that was there.

From searching the site sounds like polishing compound is probably best bet? Is it worth it to use reducer first? I suspect the engine will come out at some point in next couple years and I will probably shoot engine bay again at that point. But would like to at least get back to what I had which was at least shiny. :)

As you can see it's more like a light coat than overspray. :(

PXL_20250717_151521672.jpg
 
Use some reducer on the chrome surfaces like in the picture. Being that it's fresh wiping it with a soaked wipe and working it for a bit will soften it enough to come off. If you have a good plastic filler spreader that will help on the chrome surfaces.

There's no easy way to get the stuff off easily though. Use so.e good reducer (slower the better for everything but painted surfaces (underneath overspray).

Your fingernails will prove useful as well. Soften with reducer and scrape off whatever method you can think off to cause as little damage as possible. Rubbing/polishing compound is helpful for the final step.
 
You can try compound or polish on those inner fenders but likely you will have to redo most painted surfaces. Try some acetone on those areas first though. Because it evaps so fast it will attack what's underneath less. Just don't expect miracles from whatever method you try to remove it with.
 
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Chris_Hamilton said:
You can try compound or polish on those inner fenders but likely you will have to redo most painted surfaces. Try some acetone on those areas first though. Because it evaps so fast it will attack what's underneath less. Just don't expect miracles from whatever method you try to remove it with.
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Thanks Chris, just tried the acetone and I think it does less damage then reducer. You can hear the difference running a paper towel over the overspray before and after hitting it with the acetone.

What polish and/or compound would you suggest? I've seen references to "extra cut", looks like 3M has something called that. The engine bay was sprayed a long time ago with Nason, so the Motocryl "racing yellow" doesn't match exactly already. Really just looking to clean it up as best I can till I can yank the engine down the road.
 
Digging a little more, would 3D ACA 500 be too aggressive? I've already been planning on buying 510 / 520 per Jim's cut/buff method, I could go ahead and get the 510 and give it a try.
 
if your going to try compounding it off then the 500 or 510 is a great choice. 510 is a little faster. its somewhat aggressive but leaves a nice shine that you can probably get away with out polishing when your done...in an engine compartment. you can use wool or foam. a small 3" buffer would be good with a wool pad then switch to an orange foam to finish it off. if that doesnt do it then you need to get something really coarse like a marine gelcoat compound then move to the 510.
 
Jim C said:
if your going to try compounding it off then the 500 or 510 is a great choice. 510 is a little faster. its somewhat aggressive but leaves a nice shine that you can probably get away with out polishing when your done...in an engine compartment. you can use wool or foam. a small 3" buffer would be good with a wool pad then switch to an orange foam to finish it off. if that doesnt do it then you need to get something really coarse like a marine gelcoat compound then move to the 510.
Click to expand...
Thanks Jim I'm gonna get that on order.
 
You may try xylene on the painted areas to remove the fresh paint/overspray, doesn't evaporate nearly as fast and doesn't seen to damage existing paint very easily. I also use it to remove glue from wraps, undercoat, etc... ymmv but another tool to have in your arsenal. That looks like it could get pretty tough though, I think melting it off would be my approach, wipe on/wipe off with shop thinner before just resorting to refinishing.
 
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