Buffing problems

i spend a lot of time with 2500 by hand than anything else. i dont skip any grits from 1000 up either. just old habits. but i would rather spend the time sanding than buffing .
 
fly, if your wetsanding up to 2000 you can skip the 3000 trizact and just use the 5000 instead. last longer and cuts as fast or faster than the 3000 does. the reduction in buffing i get and time saved with the 5000 is unbelievable. imo thats the best product 3m has come out with in years.
 
Jim C;33637 said:
fly, if your wetsanding up to 2000 you can skip the 3000 trizact and just use the 5000 instead. last longer and cuts as fast or faster than the 3000 does. the reduction in buffing i get and time saved with the 5000 is unbelievable. imo thats the best product 3m has come out with in years.

Jim...We dry sand....what would you think about jumping from 2000 to the 5000? Dave
 
old sarge;33634 said:
I have been using the Mirka abralon 2000,3000,4000 foam pads. I like them and only about $2.25 each.

I used a lot of those pads years ago and they always worked good, the 3M 5000 is way better than the Mirka 4000 though.
 
jim i just order mine from the warehouse i get all my supplies from. i buy as a jobber.

fly, i dry sand as well. i dont think you'll have any problems jumping from 2000 to the 5000. with traditional sandpaper that would be far too big a jump but the trizact is totally different. i think the 5000 cuts every bit as fast or faster than the 3000 does. just make an extra pass or 2 with it. i have gone from 1500 to the 5000 and it worked fine. i just slowed down a little to work it a little more.

gjs, in 10 years the only wetsanding i have ever done in my shop is 2500 and up. i dry sand everything. those yellow discs i posted the link to in 1500 are good for about 4-6sqft a piece or more. it doesnt load up. its a finishing film and they are made for color sanding clearcoat at fine grits.
 
I have saved no time and created more work and frustration for myself.


Hahaha, this is my life in a single sentence.
 
GJSZ51;33622 said:
I must admit, this is the first time I have had this kind of problem but, recognize that is largely my fault. Not only did I use the 1500 but, I over used it. I made 6 to 8 section passes assuming the 3000 would remove them. I overused the 3000 and realize now it is good for 1 panel or approximately a 4 x 4 section at best. The slurry does indeed turn to foam and, is the only indication the 3000 is worn slam out. Additionally, it is likely to be putting little orbit worms in your finish.So all the work I was doing was for not result.

I also wipe down with micro fiber after each sanding operation. That reveals little but, if you wipe down with wax and grease remover on micro fiber, it will show your scratches.

It took me all day to produce this in the first cut ( 2 passes ) of 3M Perfect it compound



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The last car I painted with PPG sanded and buffed with 3M. But, I did not lean on the 1500 so hard, as I recall. The finish was like glass and nib free prior to buffing...




Just so I don't look like a complete idiot...:disturbed:

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Has anyone tried the Norton equivilant to trizact? It is much cheaper, I am told. They do not make a 5000, though. 3M trizact 3000 and 5000 cost me about 5.00/pad. Guess that is why I was leaning on the 3000 so hard. By that I mean, stretching the use...

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Thanks for all the good help and info Jim, Shine, Barry and Dave.

This site rocks!

If the removing with wax and grease remover is showing scratches, the you are filling the scratches with glase from the compound, either using to much or the speed is not fast enough to burn the glaze off.
On your first cut do a 3 foot area use about a 50 cent piece size of compound, you can add more if needed, increase your speed and go over that spot until it looks like you washed and dried it and there are no scratches, don't clean when doing the first step. Do the next 2-3 feet and when the whole panel is done, leave the dried stuff on, don't wipe off or clean pad, now do the whole panel at once using just the dried residue, using the same long stroke as if you were painting. Do this until the panel looks like you washed and dried it, at this point if black, there will be almost no swirl marks and other colors will look like you are done. Now go to next step and all you are doing is converting the scratches put in the paint from the compound and adding gloss, with every step after.
 
Jim C;33652 said:
.
those yellow discs i posted the link to in 1500 are good for about 4-6sqft a piece or more. it doesnt load up. its a finishing film and they are made for color sanding clearcoat at fine grits.

Thanks for turning me on to those yellow 1500 discs, I love those things.
I found some on line that are quite reasonable. they work great dry.
 
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