buffing burn, heat damage?

N

northerndave

What does it look like typically? Does it show up weeks after, tiny blisters etc?
 
a dull spot with a fine grain look . almost like vinyl . will never buff up to clear gloss.
high speed and dry pad will destroy a paint finish .
 
alright. Well I have a panel on a recent job that's showing that sort of defect in spotty patches. I know it was when I was experimenting with chemical guys stuff, compounds and foam pads. I didn't like it because it was making heat like crazy and I wasn't getting anywhere. I've since gone away from those compounds and pads, using some lake country pads and sonax compound and I don't get any heat anymore. But it looks like I'll be blocking this deck lid, likely rebasing and clearing.
 
dont blame the pads or compounds. i use both and do not have this problem. dry pad and excessive speed caused it.
 
I didn't blame the pads or compounds. I know you like that stuff and more power to you, It wasn't working out for me so I went away from it. As to the question of the product or myself being the problem, I take full responsibility. I wasn't using much speed and I was shocked at the amount of heat I was making. I tried damp pad and I didn't like how it was caking up on me, conditioner spray of some sort may have made all the difference.

They are products that I haven't written off entirely, it's very possible that I may come back to them if I alter other portions of my process. But for right now I'm very comfortable with sonax and a foamed wool compounding pad on rotary for my first step, followed by polishing efforts. I make zero heat with the foamed wool and sonax, I suppose it compliments my skill level, I feel safe and confident with it.

I wasn't starting a product bashing post, I just wanted to confirm my thoughts on a defect I experienced.
 
compounds are a cutting lubricant for the pads . that is why there are different pads and compounds. i use the vseries because there is no build up or mess to deal with . if it was caking up on you then you were using far too much compound. i can do a car with the 4 oz sample pack .
the only way to build the heat is to stay on a spot far too long , use a dry pad or use too much pressure ..
there is no compound made that reduces heat . period. friction creates the heat , not the pad type or compound .
 
I was using hexilogic (sp?) pads and V series. I Kept the speed down lower than I would have with old black 3-m egg crate foam and polish, moved cautiously (quick) and very low pressure, a shocking amount of heat is what I experienced.

Like I said, I'm not here to bash products, but I'm not going to pretend it didn't happen either.

I don't know, I've since been using some lake country foam with no heat concerns.
 
I was curious if the shape of the foam pads had any advantages over another style. I've seen them flat, waffle and now hex-logic flat.
I've been using the TCP waffle pads and Wizard products with success.

Mike
 
foam pads will always generate more heat than say a wool pad. they will do it quickly also. you need to be more careful with foam than you do with wool. a dry foam pad will destroy your paint in the blink of an eye. as shine said you need to keep compound on the pad for lubrication. the sonax works very well with the hexlogic yellow or orange pad. if the pads are new you really have to watch you a$$ as well. i actually hate new foam pads as they will burn even faster. imo they need a little break in. i usually do this with a piece of 36 grit. i turn on the buffer then run it for a second on the face of the pad.
 
Pad conditioner before and during the buffing will make a huge difference with heat and grabbing issues. Shine turned me on to it and I highly recommend it, using water as the lube will not produce the same result as using the conditioner from Chemical Guys. New pads I spritz pad twice then 5-6 dots of compound on pad and buff when I need to apply more compound I spritz once and 5-6 dots more compound on pad and keep buffing. It will allow more time buffing before you need to apply more compound without degrading the compounds ability to do it's job, it really should be considered part of the system IMO.
 
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