Blushing single stage on 67 Mustang interior

C

cstrom72

I finished my doors in SPI grey Wednesday night then Thursday night I shot single stage PPG lacquer in Ford Dark red. Sprayed nice and came out well on my inner doors and rear interior panels but dried pretty flat and seemed to lighten up a tad. Doing some reading this is called blushing and trends to caused by humidity. That's what I'm blaming this on anyway for now. But I also shot it with a brand new LPH400 and was my first time shooting with this gun. I have heard you can color and and buff to fix but I don't think that's going to happen with the grained texture here. Any insight? I wanted to spray my interior of the car this weekend but now I'm a little gun shy... what's my options? This was my first time shooting single stage lacquer... thanks everyone 2015-08-07 14.37.13.jpg

2015-08-07 14.36.53.jpg

2015-08-07 14.36.30.jpg
 
Also something i just noticed is that the little bit of mixed paint left in the mixing cup is still 100% liquid. Does this stuff not harden up ? It was left in open container all night in a 80³ garage all night and the panels are completely dry... I know I mixed correctly 1:1.5 ratio with the thinner...
 
If you truly used laquer it will not harden in the cup. It is not catylized and dries by evaperation of the thinner.

Are you sure you used laquer? I asked because it is pretty much obsolete and pretty hard to find now days.

John
 
That is not blushing looking at pictures.
Looks like a urethane mixed with lacquer thinner and no activator????

Did you get the right products and mix right?
List your products or post picture and we can figure this out.
 
Here are the products I used acrylic lacquer and thinner from the local PPG supplier. I knew I needed about 16oz for 2 coats to start so I used the ML and mixed it 1:1.5 using the marks on the right hand side.

The paint is still liquid in the cup as of now. It was mixed Wednesday evening. 2015-08-08 09.15.32.jpg

image_4140.jpg

image_4139.jpg

image_4141.jpg

2015-08-08 09.15.32.jpg

2015-08-08 09.15.32.jpg

2015-08-08 09.13.05.jpg

2015-08-08 09.11.56.jpg
 
Could be that thinner was too fast?

Long time ago, but used the slowest lacquer thinner and add retarder in high temps and if excessive humitity would try to wait for dryer weather. (Shooting lacquer).
Is it possible that paint was supposed to be a satin finish with flat added?
 
Possibly- wouldn't/shouldn't the thinner have a rating on it? I know all of Barry's products say fast, slow or very slow. I'm tempted to mix up a little and shoot again today with a different gun on one of the rear panels. Could it have just been It was sprayed too dry?

According to the MSDS its a Medium thinner. I shot at about 5pm when it was the hottest out/least humidity and waited 10 minutes between coats per the MSDS. It was pretty hot here I think it was just a hair over 90°...
 
Re shot the rear panels today. Used my finishline3 with a 1.3 tip. Also put a fresh filter in the Camair QC3. I'm thinking it was just my not having the LPH400 tuned in just right. Turned out much better as you can see. The glove box door is the original paint still. They are a ltitle brighter for sure, but it's a fair guess that the glove box door is a little faded after almost 50 years haha. Going to re-shoot the inner doors tomorrow night. Then a seal coat of epoxy in the interior and trunk then spray them red.2015-08-09 17.12.13.jpg
 
The thinner you have is a medium temp, also not sure where you are but in GA as sun sets, humidity goes up big time.
Like pointed out by Chevman, us old folks use to when we had this problem, let the coats set longer and use the slowest thinner you can.
In this weather, DTL105 would be your choice or some retarder to slow down the 876.
OR wait till 70-75 and 35% humidity to spray (in morning?)
 
Back
Top