Black SPI single stage paint question

T

tgwise

Painted the 69 mustang a month ago. Wet sanding and buffing now. I have orange peel I am working on removing. I am assuming my air compressor wasn't strong enough for the job. I've sanded down enough to eliminate the peel visually when sanded. When buffed I see what I can only describe as a light fish scale. At one angle it is highly visible and at another you really gotta look for it. Being black I really can't leave it alone. It also gives the illusion of heat coming off of the roof. It's weird. Any ideas. I am prepared to rent a bigger air compressor and re-spray if totally necessary. Don't want to but...
 
you have burned the paint with excessive heat from the buffer . it will have a fine leather look . it wont buff out.
 
Ok, I've never went over 1200 RPM's and constantly moving and spending only a few minutes at a time in one area. I hope I haven't burned the paint. It still has a mirror finish just at a certain angle I see what looks like faint fish scales for lack of a better description. I don't believe I can even get it to show up in a photo or I would post one.
 
if you are not happy with it I would respray. Have you ever seen someone buff a car. I have been doing it for over 20 years and still make mistakes. I am starting to find in my old age that I should only work one panel per day- when I was still green and laying it down wrong. Now I have a better air compressor and better guns so when I am done there is only dust and an occasional mistake. If you want to continue I suggest buying a bigger air compressor (7.5 hp 80 gallon) and some guns and start shootin
 
Get some chemical guys pad conditioner to reduce the heat. It is amazing what a difference this stuff makes...

Don
 
Ok, after some research I now realize I am dealing with urethane wave. I am comparing pictures online and descriptions and they are identical to what I have. I have never dealt with it before so I was totally lost when seeing it and describing it. Anyone have sanding tips to reduce the wave. I have sanded out the peel that was there and buffed (which led to the discovery) and now am unsure of thickness. It is black single stage. Thanks guys.
 
urethane wave does not look like fish scales. it is just gentle waves in the paint . it's caused by flooding the paint on thick and pushing it with the pattern of air.
fine grain look is burnt . basically melting the finish and tugging at it. usually with a dry pad .
 
I doubt it's urethane wave. That is when you look across the entire panel and see a wave. If you look straight into the panel and study a 1' by 1' square and see fishscales then it's not wave.

If you sand and rebuff the area and it doesn't lay down flat then you have the burn that Shine is talking about. Only way to correct it is to take it back down to primer and re-do.

I used to get it when I used wool pads. They make some heat.
 
It is not burned paint. The untouched passenger side of the roof has the same thing the whole body does. I wrongly described it as fish scales. I had never seen this before and is what I could relate to. Looking down directly into the paint it is crystal clear. At certain angles it is visible. Gives an illusion of heat rising. Weird I know but I just know that I did not burn the paint as I have kept moving around 1000 rpms, never stopping and always with enough compound. I could leave it like it is that's how beautiful it is but I plan on taking it to shows occasionally. It's one of those things that since I painted it I have been going over it with a fine tooth comb and once I seen it that's all I can see. Took me awhile to see it but it is definitely there. Gonna wet sand some more and see what happens.
 
block with a long hard block with paper tight. short block or soft pad will not change anything. a long block will show you exactly what it is.
 
Thank you . I appreciate all of the advice.
 
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jamon8 said:
if you are not happy with it I would respray. Have you ever seen someone buff a car. I have been doing it for over 20 years and still make mistakes. I am starting to find in my old age that I should only work one panel per day- when I was still green and laying it down wrong. Now I have a better air compressor and better guns so when I am done there is only dust and an occasional mistake. If you want to continue I suggest buying a bigger air compressor (7.5 hp 80 gallon) and some guns and start shootin
Click to expand...
Thanks, I am going to try some more sanding and see what I can get done. I will respray if needed but first I gotta find out what caused this as it will be done in the same environment and same gun (Iwata LPH400 lvx) but will rent a bigger compressor. Then I will respray if I am not satisfied with more sanding. It's kinda like a train wreck, once spotted that seems to be all I can focus on. I am getting good results with the buffer. It's crystal clear looking down but it's just certain angles that kill it. When thinking back to the day I painted it I may have been to close with the gun. I did not blast it on as I only had 1 run. I sprayed in two days. Fenders, hood and add on's like the front valance, mirrors, and side scoops on one day and the rest the next. I wanna blame my compressor but I cannot for sure, most likely my fault so I need to practice before a respray.
 
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Sounds like urethane wave to me. What grit paper are you using to wet sand? How many coats of SS did you spray?

I have wet sanded my last job sprayed with 4 coats of Euro clear 4:1:1, starting with 600 wet and going up to 3000. Had the guy next to me at a car show ask how my panels were flatter than his Camaro. He had a really nice paint job but when sighting down the side you could see the wave left in his clear from what I'm assuming was a standard 1500 to 2000 cut and buff.
 
I started with 1500, worked 98% of the peel out. Went to 2000 till I was satisfied the peel was gone. Went to 3000 3m trizact board strips. Then on to 5000 trizact board strips. The panels looked like bare aluminum. Perfectly flat. I used Wizards Turbo cut to buff with a wool pad and then Wizards final cream. This black still looks amazing, just bugged by the wave. It's not noticeable to the average person but a frequent car show person will spot it. I have three strong coats on top of black epoxy sealer and that on top of black Turbo on top of black epoxy. However I am afraid of being thin in a few places. Actually, I rubbed thru a very small section and it's hardly noticeable. I'm gonna re sand starting with a hard board and 1000 and take my time. I'm very patient, I spent 12 hours doing the quarter so time spent doesn't bother me. I will re spray if necessary. Thanks guys.
 
You might want to 'consider' going back to the LPH's original Silver cap for Clear or the SS.1.4
Most everything I shot with the 1.4,original cap was 'glass be it Universal or SS.
Your Air IS the 'key' too and you can never have 'enough. Get a Tee with a gauge AT the gun and SEE what psi exactly your spraying At.
Big difference than at the 'wall,
 
100_0429.jpg


Yeah,it's a lawnmower but was SS Black with Uni clear and 'as shot' with no cut & buff using an LPH 400 with the Silver cap.
 
DSC00034.jpg


In case you wondered. I have 2 with 1/4,3/8 because inquiring minds want to know.....
You can 'tell from the residue 'which' i use most.
 
Quick connect goes to the Gun and air hose goes to the 'fitting.
Your measuring the Actual psi Into the Gun while pulling the trigger.
 
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