black single stage or base with clear for novice

anotheridiot said:
My advice, not knowing how much spraying experience you have and since you plan to do parts individually, is pick the easiest part to sand to paint first. The amount of sanding is going to be based on the amount of orange peel you end up with and I am pretty sure knowing when to stop and sand is more important than sanding. If you have peel in your first coat, I am not sure its right to spray 2 more coats being that the paint will not fill, just continue on the high and low spots and loading up coats is not going to make sanding with 800 too much fun. It will get your technique down and reducer and pressures dialed in for your personal spraying.

Of course, if you can spray to gloss with no peel at all, then its going to be easier.

I have seen some car shows where the peel was just awful and they dont show you the days of cutting and buffing before its done. You are already starting with a color that is going to show every flaw, every defect with black. When my son was getting close to painting the Camaro, we stuck a jeep in so he could paint something before needing to be perfect. Getting some thin metal to practice on might save hours if not days. I say thin metal because cardboard soaks in paint so you wont see runs, and metal you can put over the edge of a table and bend and edge on it like the fender will be.
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that is excellent advice that i will be doing, thanks
 
MX442 said:
Slammed, I also decided on SS black for my 57 pickup (Bigglass on the truck forum). I'm following Shine's advice. Hopefully I will be laying it down by the end of this month. I'll keep you posted..
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thanks my brother, seems that we think along the same lines. I'll will start epoxy/ high build primer/sanding here in november and probably start spraying around april. If you start before , let me know how it goes. if not then I'll let you know of the issues I stumbled across
 
Knowing for sure it is non metallic, I would do whatever you personally preferred. The only real advantage I see to base/clear is the easier touch up and blending. Blending, however, is probably not something you will need to do.

John
 
John Long said:
Knowing for sure it is non metallic, I would do whatever you personally preferred. The only real advantage I see to base/clear is the easier touch up and blending. Blending, however, is probably not something you will need to do.

John
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Thanks
 
I do the 5 coats back to back with 30 minutes between them. Used to do 4 and never rubbed through but I started to do another coat when I started cutting with 600 or 800 instead of the 1000 with long boards.

I like the concept of setting up and spraying once instead of sanding, re masking, and respraying again. If I get 5 nice coats I'm out of there. It's not better, it's just easier on my shoulders. I feel that I can work the paint just as flat.

It's hard to beat the look of SPI single stage. This caddy probably has 15k miles on it and last time I saw the car it didn't have any chips on the front of that hood. It's more durable than base clear. For me it's more work to cut and buff than clear but the positives out weigh the easier clear.
 

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Brad J. said:
I do the 5 coats back to back with 30 minutes between them. Used to do 4 and never rubbed through but I started to do another coat when I started cutting with 600 or 800 instead of the 1000 with long boards.

I like the concept of setting up and spraying once instead of sanding, re masking, and respraying again. If I get 5 nice coats I'm out of there. It's not better, it's just easier on my shoulders. I feel that I can work the paint just as flat.

It's hard to beat the look of SPI single stage. This caddy probably has 15k miles on it and last time I saw the car it didn't have any chips on the front of that hood. It's more durable than base clear. For me it's more work to cut and buff than clear but the positives out weigh the easier clear.
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Brad, when doing five coats back to back do you ever have any issues with urethane wave? Do you do anything differently than if you were spraying just a normal three coats?
 
The issue I seen is if you do get some trash in the paint on earlier coats your really burying them deep and makes getting them sanded out that much harder especially if it's a speck of a different color. That's where doing 2 rounds of spraying come in and will more then likely be cleaner and smoother because you blocked between coats.
I have done plenty both ways and while doing 2 rounds is a pain more times then not they come out better.
It really depends on what the end result you want.
 
I don't do anything different. I use an Iwata ls400 hvlp that I've had since they came out. It's a slow gun but works for me and I'm not production. If it's hot I add retarder on the last two coats. I only use universal as thats what I'm comfortable.

Sure I have a lot of urethane wave. I also have a lot of urethane wave when I do three coats. I use long durablocks with 800 wet board paper and this takes care of the wave.
You have to remember It takes me 1-2 years to build a car. That means I don't have tons of spray times like a guy doing it everyday. If I did I might make adjustments.

I don't have problems with colored specs and such. Booth is clean and I wash the hose each time and wear a shoot suit I tack off. I do occasionally get a filter fuzzy or such but they disappear when I block.

I understand why guys do the 2 step, it's just not my thing. If I'm into my early coats and have a problem then I stop right there and start over like a 2 step job. If I don't then I keep my 5 coats wet.
 
I've done both 1 & 2 step with single stage paints & clears. While I would call 2 step the best way, I think it also comes down to your methods. Great color sanding & buffing skills help make up for less than perfect spraying skills & equipment. That is as long as they are sprayed good enough with no other issues or mistakes such as inadequate flash times. Many good painters hate cut & buff the most, but it's just as important as other steps to be great at it for the near perfect finish.
 
I will say this about SS jobs versus BC/CC if you are not spraying in a booth. BC/CC is going to be a lot more forgiving if you get trash or bugs in the base versus the first coat of SS. Clear it's about the same but still a little easier to repair. If you are painting in a booth then SS for black would be the way to go but if not I'd go BC/CC just for the ability to repair any hiccups.
 
I used the SPI SS black to paint my 51 Ford F1, which is almost done. I am just about done with cut and buff on the bed, bed boards, and rear fenders, so they will be assembled and installed soon.

I spoke to Barry and he said to run 5 back to back wet coats, so I did. Gave me plenty of paint to cut and buff without fear of burning through.
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Chris_Hamilton said:
I will say this about SS jobs versus BC/CC if you are not spraying in a booth. BC/CC is going to be a lot more forgiving if you get trash or bugs in the base versus the first coat of SS. Clear it's about the same but still a little easier to repair. If you are painting in a booth then SS for black would be the way to go but if not I'd go BC/CC just for the ability to repair any hiccups.
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This is what I thought I've read before here. I'll go BC/CC then. It will be in a garage so I know I'm going to be seeing trash and bugs. I've heard SPI black is great either way.
 
anything in the clear will show up on the black including peel in the base or scratches . unless i'm using pearls or doing something custom i will never clear black . in time it will haze over .
 
shine said:
anything in the clear will show up on the black including peel in the base or scratches . unless i'm using pearls or doing something custom i will never clear black . in time it will haze over .
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Not disagreeing with you but I've never seen that. Now I haven't seen many of the things I've done 5 or 10 years down the road but I have seen a few and did not notice those issues. You are talking about BC/CC not SS/CC correct?
 
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