Best product to correct wavy corvette after SPI Epoxy

6

6t7goat

Helped a friend spray SPI epoxy yesterday on a mid 70’s vette. Car had several paint jobs in the past and he sanded all of them off. He is new to body and paint and i have only done a few cars And never fiberglass. I noticed a lot of areas that are going to need attention from things like digging in to hard with the edge of the DA , pinholes etc. what is the best filler to skim these panels so it can be blocked and leveled out. Thanks and I apologize if its been asked before. I searched but could not find anything.
 
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I would use Evercoat 870 Vette Panel Adhesive on top of epoxy that is within the recoat window, then re-apply and block epoxy until it's reasonably certain that no more filler will be required. At that point, switch to the polyester primer of your choice. Poly primer can build like crazy, so it's important to sand it out of keyholes and off of edges or there can be problems. Then the vehicle should be re-primed with epoxy for final blocking.
 
Could be a combo of products listed. A light scuff of epoxy for guide coat purposes would give you a better quick view of what's initially needed.
870VPA is the strongest filler, which would give the best durability near edges or in spots really thick. Sands & applies ok, but not as easy as a high quality poly filler , such as platinum. Either type would be ok for heavier needed build areas , such as gouges & bad dips. Then a spray poly primer, such as slicksand, g-2, claussin, etc will give you your quickest results vs time on final filling & blocking out vs swiping filler on & trying to get it smooth again.
A certain amount of procedure can come down to preference & material availability.
 
Be careful with pinholes in the fiberglass, any air left in them under filler will come back prob after you buff and put it back together. Ditto pinholes in filler, I've had problems lately even with the best fillers. If it were me I would put three or more coats of epoxy back on, cut with 150 and the proper blocks, then powder guide coat and carefully sand with 220, 320, lightly with 400. Then see where you're at. I prefer two or three coats of epoxy to one coat of slicksand etc any day.
 
Slofut said:
...I prefer two or three coats of epoxy to one coat of slicksand etc any day.
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Me too. If I have to resort to poly primer, it's like an admission of defeat. I use it so seldom that most of the time it goes bad and I have to get a fresh gallon. But I feel like most guys don't want to do several rounds of epoxy and blocking. It's a lot to ask of somebody who isn't a fanatic.
 
Crash thats why i like to put it on all at once, within epoxy guidelines. Three or four coats today and leave it, three coats tomorrow. Let cure and block out. You’ll sand most back off but have enough where it counts to level out all but the very worst spots if any. No need for poly and you have a better base for paint and when done, for things like emblems and chrome that love to make indentions in thick paint films.
 
I have a '77 corvette with 40k miles and original paint....well, whats left of the paint. ;) It was mostly chalk and after a light sanding with DA 180 I now have a body completely covered in checking and pinholes.

What is my next move guys? :rolleyes: This car is for resale and I want it nice....but not looking to fall in love with her if ya know what I mean. :mad:

Thanks for any help folks. Received my first SPI order last week....luv that black epox primer!
 
Strip completely of old paint, you're almost there anyway if not already, extra time here will reward you ten fold. SPI epoxy! Min four coats, first coats light to avoid craters, if filler is needed where checking and pinholes are I highly recommend Evercoat Polyflex 100-114 on corvettes. Block epoxy with 150 and spray two or more coats if needed, block 150, 220, 320 and see where you are. Polyfill WILL NOT cure checking/cracking. After epoxy you may only need very light filler and blending with spot epoxy.
Slofut said:
ALWAYS epoxy on bare glass. And I recommend extra epoxy coats instead of polyfill or sprayable polyester fillers.
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Slofut said:
Strip completely of old paint, you're almost there anyway if not already, extra time here will reward you ten fold. SPI epoxy! Min four coats, first coats light to avoid craters, if filler is needed where checking and pinholes are I highly recommend Evercoat Polyflex 100-114 on corvettes. Block epoxy with 150 and spray two or more coats if needed, block 150, 220, 320 and see where you are. Polyfill WILL NOT cure checking/cracking. After epoxy you may only need very light filler and blending with spot epoxy.
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Ok, thank you Slofut. Now, your first sentence recommends completely removing old paint.....and second sentence recommends Polyflex "if filler is needed where checking and pinholes are". If paint is completely striped why would there be any checking or pinholes?

In sentence 4 you offer that "Polyfill" will not cure checking/cracking.......is this "Polyfill" product the same "Polyflex" you're referring to earlier to use over the checking? Will the epoxy primer cure any checking left after trying to remove all old paint?

I am out of date on products and truly appreciate your help, thanks. Also, this is my first fiberglass rodeo an I'm itching already.....80 grit DA barely fazes this checking on the ole girl an I am not kidding!!
 
Just did some utube browsing of paint stripper reviews.....gonna try CitriStrip....cover first layer with paper towels, apply second layer of citri, then cover it all with Saran Wrap.

Lets see if any progress is made......
 
Yes, polyflex is a polyester filler that is flexible, applied with a spreader. Polyfill is a brand of sprayable polyester filler that i dislike in favor of more epoxy. It does ok, but for me i can accomplish the same thing with a few more coats of epoxy and i think its a better product in terms on longevity.
 
Bob, if you havent already, dont use the citristrip! No liquid strippers on corvettes as it will cause you grief after your nice slick paint has been buffed and out in the sun a few days or weeks. If its original paint id use mechanical means of stripping. Razor blades, da sander (stay off any edges or style lines) etc… it will be worth the trouble. I just finished an eight year restomod on a 71 convertible and have a lot of fiberglass experience over the last 40 years, but the guys on the forum here are better than i am. I think they will back me up on these points.
 
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