Best option for underbody? 2201-1 matte black?

A

Addicted

Hello all. I'm working on a unibody car restoration. It is a Triumph TR7 (I know, no one but me would put this much work in to a TR7). Looking for thoughts on what to do with the underbody. The few patches I needed are done, and it is just about all blasted. Another weekend of prep, and I'll be ready to start applying SPI products!

The car is on a rotisserie. I have SPI epoxy, and that will go on everything.

my plan:

1. Spot spray patches and areas that I want to touch up with filler on the underbody.
2. Fill and sand as needed.
3. Epoxy everything (over filler).
4. Within the window for the Epoxy, I want to spray my "finish" on the bottom, and spray sanding primer on the top (avoid scuffing everything - too many nooks and crannies underneath).

For the bottom, I was contemplating either a chip guard product, or hot rod black (like 2201-1). Are there other options you would recommend? I'm ok with some texture, and almost would prefer it. I really just want it as tough as possible.
 
You might look into raptor bed liner. They make a formula that allows it to be tinted any color you want. Uses regular base coat without the binder added. Sprayed with higher air pressure makes for a smoother surface.
 
decisions, decisions.... thanks for the ideas. I'm not sure if I want to risk trapping moisture in with a thick truck bed liner (or chip guard). Does truck bed liner pass a "lacquer thinner test?" I.e. can I wipe it with lacquer thinner without smearing and dragging truck bed liner around?
 
I don't see how it could trap moisture if properly applied over epoxy within the recoat window. SEM bedliner is more like plastic rather than rubber. Haven't tried a lacquer thinner test, not sure what the goal is there....

Don
 
I kind of agree, but those darned 40 year old seams I am not opening up worry me. I'll use Fluid Film or Krown inside panels after painting, but I would still be worried about moisture working its way in and not being able to get out. I'm a northern rust belt guy, so maybe I'm too paranoid. This car sits on a lift in a climate controlled garage when I'm not driving it. Probably anything I do over blasted and epoxied seams will last for the rest of my life.
 
Someone showed me a sample of Wurth sprayable seam sealer yesterday. He highly recommended it. I'm still on the fence.
 
We used to use that at a dealership shop in SoCal that I worked for, to match OE underbody finishes on MBZ vehicles. It's not something I would choose "just because," but it did do the job for which it was intended. Oddly enough, regular undercoat would not adhere it it, we had to use flattened black SS on it within the recoat window. That was back in the late 90's though, who knows how it performs now.

I still use several Wurth products though, we're probably one of the few shops in Idaho that have ever heard of them.
 
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