Basecoat compatibility- attempting to match metallic basecoat

[theastronaut]

I started out with a soft pad and 220 grit to smooth down the All-U-Need. It had more ripples than I was expecting afterward. There were a couple of spots, one on each side towards the front where the concave to convex areas transition that I wasn't happy with so I blocked those spots with 180 on a thin flexible acrylic block, then guide coated and blocked out the rest of the hood with the same thin block and 180 while I was at it. The ripples/texture of the poly is clearly visible after a few swipes with 180. The surface was smooth but not flat before blocking with the acrylic block. I thought it was pretty interesting to see the ripples/texture this way. After going over it with the thin block some of the overall waves of the factory panel were still there but the choppy ripples were cut flat. A skim coat and thicker/less flexible block would've made it too straight for the rest of the car. This is more of the look I wanted, it was overly choppy with just 220 on a soft pad. Urethane high build instead of poly, then 220 on a soft pad might've been the right amout of texture compared to the rest of the car.

I went up to 600 grit, then shot three coats the new batch of base with a little hardener added to get good color coverage, waited an hour, then shot all of the remaining batch of original base in two coats using slower reducer. Three coats of clear, then 1500/2000/2500 on a soft pad to cut down trash and peel. I'm pretty happy with the color match; I didn't do a test spray out card since there was very little original base left so I just winged it.

 

[Whitesnake]

I’d say that’s pretty damn good for that color and panel painting. So many variables can throw even the original base off a touch. Good job.

 

[elwood]

Looks pretty close to a Mitsubishi green metallic code f10 2006 up that I used earlier this year.

 

[Chris_Hamilton]

That's about as close as you are going to get panel painting something. Nice job Astro.

 

[chevman]

Very nice job, which panel is he going to bring over next?

 

[RosharonRooster]

Love the color

 

[theastronaut]

Thanks dudes!

Very nice job, which panel is he going to bring over next?

Whatever it is will probably be metallic that he wants panel painted lol. I've done a few jobs in the past for him and we do all of the glass work on the cars he's built. The most recent jobs were stripping and repainting a squarebody Blazer hood plus I repaired/shaved the seams on it's top and shot it with color matched Raptor Liner, a two tone RV side door (both colors were damaged and had to be matched/blended), and I shrunk the steering wheel for the '49 down to 15" by grafting on a smaller rim.

 

[chevman]

I was thinking in terms of getting that 49 painted piece by piece. LOL

 

[MJM]

Thanks dudes!




Whatever it is will probably be metallic that he wants panel painted lol. I've done a few jobs in the past for him and we do all of the glass work on the cars he's built. The most recent jobs were stripping and repainting a squarebody Blazer hood plus I repaired/shaved the seams on it's top and shot it with color matched Raptor Liner, a two tone RV side door (both colors were damaged and had to be matched/blended), and I shrunk the steering wheel for the '49 down to 15" by grafting on a smaller rim.

Loving that color matched Raptor Liner. So how does one color match Raptor Liner? Do you just add paint color to the Raptor Liner before applying, or spray the Raptor Liner, then spray color to match?

 

[RosharonRooster]

Loving that color matched Raptor Liner. Show does one color match Raptor Liner? Do you just add paint color to the Raptor Liner before applying, or paint the Raptor Liner, then spray color to match?

Add 3oz of basecoat per jug of raptor. Raptor sells black, and tintable. I'm a fan of raptor. Looks like the shell was sprayed reduced. Less texture.

 

[theastronaut]

Yep, add basecoat (or is it just basecoat toners?). It wasn't a 100% match since the "clear" tintable version is milky white so you have to tint it to compensate. I was able to just add black to darken it so it was close enough. I did add the max allowed amount of reducer for less texture, and shot it with my 2.5 tip Sata primer gun to break it up better than the usual undercoat/bedliner gun.

He originally wanted the original light texture sanded flat and it painted gloss but I talked him out of that, it was too far past wavy to ever be straight enough for gloss paint.

 

[RosharonRooster]

Yep, add basecoat (or is it just basecoat toners?). It wasn't a 100% match since the "clear" tintable version is milky white so you have to tint it to compensate. I was able to just add black to darken it so it was close enough. I did add the max allowed amount of reducer for less texture, and shot it with my 2.5 tip Sata primer gun to break it up better than the usual undercoat/bedliner gun.

He originally wanted the original light texture sanded flat and it painted gloss but I talked him out of that, it was too far past wavy to ever be straight enough for gloss paint.

I've always just added basecoat. I throw in an old nut in the jug and shake it like a rattle can