base coat adhesion on all jambs after final body sealer/base/CC (new body paint, seasoned jamb paint)

fairlane292

New Member
I'm doing a rotisserie resto-mod project on a '61 Fairlane (2dr, full-size Ford). Logistically I need to first fully paint (sealer/base/CC) the following items:
Firewall, under-side hood, under-side decklid, back-side of doors, door jambs, inner trunk. I'll be reinstalling doors, hood, decklid before sealer/base/CC on the entire body. Firewall, door jambs, inner trunk will be moderately oversprayed onto body surface. I'm planning on using sealer/base/CC with appropriate wait times.

My question(s) is in regard to final spraying of the body which may be months after the firewall, door jambs and inner trunk. I can use foam tape or tube tape in all the many jambs but when I do sealer/base/CC on the body:
1. How do I get adhesion to the small finished exposed jamb edges at the foam tape? I could lightly sand those area with maybe 800 but obviously I'd be sanding a bit of finished CC jamb area that won't be hit in this final spray.

2. Won't the jamb body spray edges be prone to showing a fine line of sealer color? (I will be cutting the body clear with 1000 before buff).

This should be very common in body shops where panels are sprayed in base/CC and jambs are not being painted. I just couldn't find anywhere that this has been discussed. Might there be an adhesion promoter product that is used in this case? Thanks so much. (my first post to this great forum). ...Jim
 
It's really hard to seal an exterior with finished jambs. I won't do it because it always looks a mess in the jamb. If you're going to seal you have to paint it apart, imo.
As far as adhesion into the jamb, we use a gold scotchbrite which is a superfine scratch that can be rubbed out if needed.
 
Thanks crashtech. So in the body repair shop they prime or seal the panel, staying away from the jamb and then do something like the gold scuff pad, and then resume with base and clear on the panel and into the jamb?
 
The jamb is masked special, typically with foam, to prevent excess overspray intrusion, but yes, that's essentially how it's done at my shop, anyway. The gold pad is for just along the edge inside the jamb to help adhesion.

But I used to know one guy who was a magician with wide tape, he could bend it in a U with the sticky side out and used it to seal the jambs against the sealer overspray, then remove it and proceed with paint. I have not done this technique successfully, it's difficult and prone to error.
 
Thanks, I’m really thankful that you totally understand my question. So when you use the foam tape to prevent excess overspray into the jamb, if you were using a primer or sealer on the adjacent panel do you try to just stay off the jamb line with your spray pattern (as best you can)? Not sure how realistic that is for me since I’m not a professional painter but I think I could do it keeping my sealer spray pattern perpendicular to the jamb lines. I could go a bit extra on the clear in the outer jamb area as well so that I can sand with 800 or scuff a little more aggressively than normal.

There’s a mile of door, hood and deck lid jamb so I’m pretty sure I can get the technique down.

Thanks again for the prof input. No doubt a lot of people find themselves in the same boat.
 
I never use sealer if I'm dealing with masked up jambs. Trying some fancy spray technique is not going to keep sealer out. Even a bit of sealer overspray is going to show in the jamb, trust me on that. If you can't paint the vehicle apart, use 2K urethane primer as your final primer and don't seal.
Maybe some others will chime in on this.
 
If the 2K primer as the final primer on the body ends up being a few mos old and I sand with 600 then I should be fine on adhesion with just base and CC on it?
 
Its possible to panel paint with metallic; shoot your jambs with base then loosely assemble the panels so you can walk the length of the car when shooting base for even color/metallic orientation, then pull it apart and clear everything separately. No tape edges in the jambs that way.
 
Its possible to panel paint with metallic; shoot your jambs with base then loosely assemble the panels so you can walk the length of the car when shooting base for even color/metallic orientation, then pull it apart and clear everything separately. No tape edges in the jambs that way.
I hadn’t thought of this approach. It is a really big car, especially for me, so I’d have to do:
Day 1: 2K primer everything
Day 2: base coat jambs, attach panels, base coat panels/body
Day 3: remove panels, CC everything.

Think I’d have to have underside of hood and decklid and maybe inner door surrounds already finished going into this, to make it doable (for me).

I like the approach but seems rather daunting given my modest experience and garage space. This is kinda why I was headed toward an approach of taking my time doing it section by section with last step being base and clear on assembled car. I could probably handle that comfortably in under a month. With all the suggestions I’ve gotten here and some additional research on back taping and soft edge taping I’m not really concerned about final base and clear as far as the jambs go. I was mostly concerned about the sealer getting in the jambs and by just doing everything in final 2K primer then that’s no longer a concern. I think I’m all set. Thanks for your suggestion, I’ll keep that one in mind in any event.
 
I usually jamb eveeything fully, let it cure. Reassemble, then spray outside complete. Mainly due to space constraints. Never had any issues with sealer showing on edges. And im oldschool so all my taping is done with standard green 3m tape folded over in the jambs/edges.
 
All we can go by is our own experience, and possibly how critical or picky one is, too. Maybe if an overspray edge is going to be allowed into a jamb at all like it is on a lot of ordinary paint jobs, the possibility of a little sealer showing is not a big deal. Most average people never even look at a door jamb critically. That's just not the way I do it.
 
All we can go by is our own experience, and possibly how critical or picky one is, too. Maybe if an overspray edge is going to be allowed into a jamb at all like it is on a lot of ordinary paint jobs, the possibility of a little sealer showing is not a big deal. Most average people never even look at a door jamb critically. That's just not the way I do it.
Funny you should say that. Jambs are one of the first things I look at, as do most of my customers. Door hinges too. :)

Don
 
Funny you should say that. Jambs are one of the first things I look at, as do most of my customers. Door hinges too. :)

Don

Agreed. They gotta be right too.

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The CC on that red panel looks "flattt"!! Which clear is that and is that sanded and polished?
That was back when I was using PPG 2021 and durablocks. I blocked it with 1000, then 2000 and 2500 so its fairly flat. I'm getting better results with Universal and acrylic blocks now. The next one will be cut with 600 to flatten it even more.

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