Base and clear paint quantity to purchase

A

Awilson

I will be buying my base and clear this week. I am looking for advice on how much to buy. Here is information that I think would be important to know for those offering their opinions.

I am an inexperienced painter.
I am painting my 68 Corvette.
I am doing the jams too.
The color is Lemans Blue, which is a medium blue metallic color.
I will be using PPG paint.
I am painting over SPI gray.
I am following "The perfect paint job" with maximum clear coats.
I am using a Iwata LPH400 gun, 1.4, orange cap.
I want maximum dept to the clear so will not be shy to put coats on.
I will polish out the car and am also inexperienced in this task.
While money is always a concern, I will not be worried about a unused quart. Worse case scenario would be not having enough. That would be a nightmare I believe.

2 questions:
How much paint should I buy?
How much clear should I buy from Barry?

I greatly appreciate any and all insight.
Alan
 
If you are buying ppg dbu, 1 gal should be plenty. If I recall you mix 1:1 which gives you 2 gal sprayable, most of the cheaper paints you mix 2:1 You really only need 3 coats or so of base color. I enclosed a pic of my old 78 vette, which was painted in 2000 DA' to the gel coat, primered, 3 coats of PPG DBU and then 3 coats glasurit. no wet sanding just a cut and buff. and that was with a conventional gun which uses more paint. I just saw this car recently and it looks perfect 10 years later. MON_0055corvette.jpg
 
I agree, get a gallon of base, it will be plenty but you want some left over for any screw ups (ask me, how I know) and fixing any damage down the road.

Clear, I did four coats Saturday and used about 3/4 of a gallon kit of universal = two gallons, still have to do T-tops and gas cap (duh) and steering column.
 
incautious;833 said:
If you are buying ppg dbu, 1 gal should be plenty. If I recall you mix 1:1 which gives you 2 gal sprayable, most of the cheaper paints you mix 2:1 You really only need 3 coats or so of base color. I enclosed a pic of my old 78 vette, which was painted in 2000 DA' to the gel coat, primered, 3 coats of PPG DBU and then 3 coats glasurit. no wet sanding just a cut and buff. and that was with a conventional gun which uses more paint. I just saw this car recently and it looks perfect 10 years later.
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DBU is mixed 1.5:1 or as thin as 2:1, with this you also use the DRR reactive reducer.
DBC and global is mixed 1:1
 
chad is right DbU can really get thinned down. DBC gets thinned 1:1. It was 10 years ago that I last used the stuff. You do want extra just in case you have to reshoot something down the road as it will match perfectly.
 
Awilson;832 said:
How much clear should I buy from Barry?
Alan
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Alan, I just visited the Corvette Forum site and saw you posted the same question there this morning. I was surprised there was no response but then noticed you mentioned SPI and Barry. That's kind of like asking which Ford engine will fit in your Corvette. Don't know why but there are a few (very few) folks who hate Shine, Barry and SPI. To quote one hater "My professional opinion: I would rather spray Dupli-color from spray cans then support Berry K and his home brewed SPI products...."

I doubt you'll get helpful advice over there once you mention any of the three (Barry, Shine and SPI). There's a lot of good advice on that site but there are also some children with no real experience or knowledge who throw fits when someone calls them on really bad information. Not to mention the jocks who drive newer Corvettes that share their wisdom but don't know where the hood release is.
 
i was there since 07 . lot of nice guys and some pretty good gun hands. but most have stopped posting. the few childish shitheads pretty much run most off. the tri5 chevy site has some too. all hat no cattle just an attitude against me and spi . problem is they never back any claims with proof .

the one you quoted has barely enough time in to be a prep-er much less a pro.
 
Lemans blue covers good in DBU and DBC, I'd use DBC just because I've been hearing for years that DBU is going to be phazed out and it requires the reactive reducer. Global and Nexa are other PPG options, or get prospray from Chad. If you're doing a complete repaint with jambs and underhood I would get 5 quarts to make sure there's some left over for repairs. I would order two gallon kits of universal clear if you plan to do the sand and flow coat deal-Universal should be the easiest for you to spray.
 
shine;859 said:
i would go with prospray. good product at a lot less money.
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Mr. Shine (sounds weird LOL). I read your posts OFTEN! Is this Prospray you speak of "Chads Paint and Audio" up north.?
 
Bob Hollinshead;858 said:
Lemans blue covers good in DBU and DBC, I'd use DBC just because I've been hearing for years that DBU is going to be phazed out and it requires the reactive reducer. Global and Nexa are other PPG options, or get prospray from Chad. If you're doing a complete repaint with jambs and underhood I would get 5 quarts to make sure there's some left over for repairs. I would order two gallon kits of universal clear if you plan to do the sand and flow coat deal-Universal should be the easiest for you to spray.
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I will probably do the 5 quarts so I don't worry about having enough and start skimping. Is there going to be any problem using Barry's clear over the DBC?
 
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i'm still waiting for a distributor list from prospray. it's a good product but the company that bought them is dumber than a tree stump. i ordered from chad . it sprays much like ppg or any other top shelf paint. but i don't have to support nascar when buying. i have not tried the SS yet but hope to on the next one.
 
Alan, here is some useful tips.
Your paint preperation is most important-the smoother the better-600 grit. and the cleaner the better- the car and the booth.
Your compressed air quality also, oil & water free a must.
Iwata gun- orange cap base-silver cap clear. Hvlp fittings, hvlp ball filter- regulated before hose.
Lay sealer as smooth as possible-let dry to lightly 800 nib & tack.
3 coats base tack between-slow reducers, lay smoother.
Univeversal clear-(Silver cap) put it on like you mean it! But no runs, the slow or extra slow hardners work awsome for 70deg & above.
The amount of coats depend alot on your own personal needs, the smother each layer from sealer to the last coat of clear the better the end result will be!
I hope this helps- Good luck and enjoy!
 
Thanks everyone for the input. 2 other questions.

Barry notes in the perfect paint job that some bases loose their adhesion if sanding. As I am a beginner I bet I will be wet sanding the whole car after the first 2 coats before applying additional coats. Do the PPG products have this loss of adhesion problem?

If I have to, can there be a gap of a week between the last base coat and the first clear coat?

FYI, my plan is to be through the clear coats by either September 26 or October 2nd.

I guess at this point I've done enough talking and just need to do it!!!
 
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you need to apply your base on sat am then clear sun am . spreading it a week is asking for it.
 
shine;915 said:
you need to apply your base on sat am then clear sun am . spreading it a week is asking for it.
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Ok, I will then do that and plan accordingly.
 
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