Automotive Sound and Heat Deadening Products

Machspeed

Machspeed

Member
I'm wondering, from you experienced painters and such, what your opinions are on some of these auto sound and heat deadening products? There are spray-in products such as Lizzard Skin and adhesive products such as Dynamat, both very expensive. Some are using bedliner products for this such as U-Pol Raptor, however I've read this is not smart as they emit toxic fumes. I've read all kinds of stuff in regards to how some of these products absorb water and cause rust, which of course is something I very much want to stay away from. Thoughts and comments, please?
 
We used both Noico and KillMat in 80 mil in the wagon project, starts here......

Wagon Progress

Nice find on used clamps. I'll take old name brand over new crap any day. Just to mention on the new crap, Tractor supply stores randomly have great prices on useable extension pliars. Got several combo packs with a 6" ,8", & 12" extension for $14.99. Way better than HF, just don't let the long...
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Yes, even inside the door. Really tightened up the door skins.. Have Line-x on the underside but it was over three coats of SPI Epoxy, so already sealed..
 
i used dynamat in my sons 2013 mitsubishi lancer- a serious tin can. trunk, both rear quarters, inner doors, rear seat back, and floor board. it quieted the ride down a LOT. rather expensive,imo, but worth it.
 
I use Dynamat followed by Thermozite insulation. Dynamat is a sound deadener, not insulation. You need to add a layer of thermal insulation.

I also tried lower cost versions of Dynamat and they suck big time imho. Don’t stick and thinner. You get what you pay for in this case imho...

Don
 
For my Mustang I plan or using Lizard Skin, they have two products that can be put on over Epoxy. For my Lightning I used Fatmat Rattletrap that I picked up from Amazon. It's been 3 or so years with no issues, just closing the doors you can tell the difference. Truck is not running yet so I do not have a before and after report.

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Raymond, curious why you are going to go with the Lizard Skin over the adhesive mat as installed in your truck? Looks like most here are using the mat. I actually like the idea of spraying something in and have been looking at the Lizard Skin, possibly supplemented with mat in some places. I understand the Lizard skin is a water based product and wondering why more people are going with the mat over the the spray in products. Regardless, it appears all of it is very expensive.
 
The Mustang will eventually be on a rotisserie and the underside and interior taken down to bare metal (top side is already done). The truck was no where near that level of disassembly and is not (at this time :)) being repainted. It was already in good shape as it has only 60k miles since 1995

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I sprayed 2 gallons of lizard skin insulation today. I've had great luck with it and the sound control used together.

I've also used many a roll of rattle trap. Rattle trap doubled up is some serious sound insulation but I go for the superior heat insulation from lizard skin.

10 years ago I sprayed the waterjacket of a homemade outside wood stove I built. The water runs 180 degrees and the lizard skin is barely warm to the touch. The door gets a lot hotter and it is just warm to the touch. Good stuff.
 
Brad, I'm probably not reading right into your comment but Lizzard Skin is available in two products, one for sound and the other for heat. One goes down first, but I can't remember which one. So are you saying you use both their products?

What car did you spray and how much product did you need? Did you also spray the inside roof?

Thanks!
 
I used the following products from Second Skin Audio on my 1951 Ford F1 truck:

https://www.secondskinaudio.com/sound-deadening/damplifier-pro on the floors, firewall, rear wall, underside of the roof, and on the interior of the door skins

https://www.secondskinaudio.com/sound-blocking/luxury-liner on the back wall

https://www.secondskinaudio.com/heat-insulation/heat-wave-pro on the underside of the roof

I bought carpet with the MLV already attached, or I would have used the Luxury Liner on the floor as well.

I also sprayed the underside of the cab with Raptor bedliner, over 3 coats of SPI epoxy.

The doors close with a solid thunk, and the truck is quiet with the windows up, even with the glasspack dual exhaust. I thought that the pricing was reasonable, and the products appear to be of very high quality.
 
I used both Lizardskin products on my '37 Ford. I sprayed everything, floor, roof, inside doors, trunk. The beauty is that it is much easier to apply to tough irregular surfaces than Dynamat or similar. I have 5/8" thick jute backing under the carpeting as well, but still found the car very loud inside, so have just installed Dynamat Extreme to the doors and Kilmat to what floors and inner quarters that I could get to. I loved the Lizardskin, but pretty pricey, so is the Dynamat. The Kilmat is the same thickness as the Dynamat and seems to work as well and is quite inexpensive in comparison.
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There are published comparison ratings for all the sound deadeners.
 
If you look at what the high end oem's do, they all use multiple products as the total package. Stick on butyl/asphalt/rubber type products dampen metal ring, but do nothing for other sounds. Covering every square inch can sometimes be a heavy waste over just strips or pads not covering entire panel. Even the roofing peel & seal product can work (initially smelly also) , but none seem to do anything for noise such as muffler drone.

Speaking of muffler drone, J-pipes, which are dead ended short pipes can remove drone while retaining a loud ass exhaust tone. The concept is a little confusing & not fully common knowledge, but oem's have them internal in many large mufflers. Calculated close enough, they remove an unwanted sound range with zero power loss, as sound only goes in a dead ended pipe, not airflow. They do work. You can have your loud exhaust & not have your last nerve buzzed out of you head at highway rpm's, especially with overdrive gearing.

Anything foil or ceramic can make a huge heat difference, even homestore flooring products. Sprinter vans come factory with something on floor white & rubbery probably similar to lizardskin. Night & day heat difference to Ford & GM vans without it. Covering every floor square inch helps.
Jute mats or any other type products that are soft & create tiny dead air pockets help catch & absorb actual sound waves to complete the package. Some use cheaper flooring products for this use too.
 
Machspeed said:
Raymond, curious why you are going to go with the Lizard Skin over the adhesive mat as installed in your truck? Looks like most here are using the mat. I actually like the idea of spraying something in and have been looking at the Lizard Skin, possibly supplemented with mat in some places. I understand the Lizard skin is a water based product and wondering why more people are going with the mat over the the spray in products. Regardless, it appears all of it is very expensive.
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I've used both the sound and the heat control. Most of the time I use them together but I was doing a 50's convertible which are noisy so I just sprayed the heat control.

I sprayed the large pail and had maybe a cup let doing a firewall and floor pan. Sprayed 2 coats. I always need more product than recommended because I over do it.
 
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