Another newbie base question.

M

mad57

Ok so ive been browesing this site for a bit and iam ready to shoot my car its a 1950 dodge wayfarer convertible, pretty rare car dont see many around want it to come out decent. Well at a local swap meet boom i see the color i want in a cheap off brand kirker paint single stage, acid rain yellow metallic. so i bought 2 gallons, brought it home and played shooting some fenders....very hard for me and even my pro buddy not to get grouping or sags in the metallic, we did his parents whole car and had just 2 grouping or poolings of metallics but i dont want any in my dodge, so i tryed to color match it at my supplyer no luck close but not exact, so its now fall i go back to swap meet and find that kirker now makes a lock or base maker for my paint, bought 2 quarts figured id give it a try since i like this color so much, whith that being said does the uv spi clear sound like to clear for the job?? i have had good test panels with that kirker paint than nason clear with pearl metallics mixed in than final coat of just clear. Is this something spi clear is compatable over? am i looking for problems with this kirker base? thks again. mad57 way10.jpg
 
This is very confusing???

You need to check if that base maker is for base or the SS, most normal companies will use an activator for the SS.

JC Clark is the expert on here with Kirker stuff, so he may be able to help out, anytime you buy paint at a flea market, you are asking for problems.

Just seems like to nice of a looking car for me to consider using the flea market special.
JM2CW
 
I'm no expert on the Kirker stuff but I can tell you this.
Their single stage "urethane" has been really good for me.
I don't care for the enamel to much, but that's all enamels for me,
it's cheap and not that durable, the urethane is only slightly higher and
way more durable.

Now, that being said, the only failure of paint I've ever had was useing a
base maker for their enamel. I even repainted the car again with it and paid close attention to the directions because I was accused of not doing so the first time.
It failed too, the pigment turned and the clear peeled. (about 2 yrs)
Never again will I use a product like that. It was called "Lazerdry"
Kirker has come out with a new base system that I think is a "real" basecoat.
I will never again use one of the so called systems that take a enamel or
urethane color and make a base out of it. Maybe this new base is ok,
I haven't tried it yet. It takes a activator and when you compare the total
price it's about the same as the off brand base I use now which I like.
So I probably will never use it. I will use their urethane for all-overs,
I like that. And SPI clear works nicely over it.:cool:
 
Jc THanks thats what i was looking for a hands on yes it will work, its the urethane single stage barry i do know its cheap paint but ive been tossing around colors for 6 months now painted every scrap fender on the east coast, spent god knows how much $ on pints of chroma base and nothing looks the way this color does in the sun, the reds and blues and mostly oranges have been done to death, this is a yellow green gold that just jumps, when i add in the gold pearl it dances in the sun, the car will be garaged all the time so if i got 2 yrs from it id still be happy, that would be around the time id prob be looking for a new color any how;) I m glad to hear that ur clear is stable over this paint i cant wait to see this universal in action. As far as this (lock) or base maker i havent tryed it yet but will report back when i do. the other full car i painted came out great but had 2 grouping areas that i wouldnt want on the dodge and of course my luck it would be right where the money shots are:) if this base product doesnt work i will be off again looking for the perfect match (crossing my fingers) thks again mad57.
 
I know the SPI clear works good on the urethane, I don't know about enamel or lacquer.
They are all "single stage" paints but are completely different.

I've had the "Universal Clear" over the Kirker orange urethane on my daily
driver for almost 5 yrs now and it's held up great, with the exception of the plastic parts that have lightened a little. I even covered them with epoxy first
and still, plastic parts always seem to change a little.
It did take almost 5 yrs to notice though, and it's slight.
But overall, the Kirker urethane is the toughest paint I've used.
I did my boat and trailer with it too. It's held up great.
I don't consider it "cheap" paint, lower cost yes, but so is SPI.
 
so this is my color its the kirker with pearl gold in clear plan is to do the car that color with a creme soft top with 4in wide whites and radar rims should be a wicked ride:)1paint.jpg

1paint2.jpg

1paint3.jpg
 
other jim c.... did you ever use the (lock) or base maker for there single stage? does it help stable the metallics? i figured id try it its not horrible right from the can but id rather not take a chance and get the pooling, i figured the base maker would make it just that a nice base no worries about issues with metallics and than i can lay on the spi clear;)
 
No, Iahven't used anything other than the Lazerdry type conversion.

I think urethanes in general have a better richer color and depth
than basecoats and there's a lot of people that agree with me, that's
why I used it on my own car.
I sprayed the urethane with light coats, I didn't need it to be smooth
and shiny all over because I was going to clear it.
Doing it that way, spraying it almost like basecoat, made it easy to
keep the metallic even and I didn't get any runs.
The tech sheet said to clear within 24 hrs or it needed sanding.
I have found you need to wait a while when clearing urethane,
to soon and it can disturb the metallics, make it look a lttle striped like.
I found it needs at least 3 hrs of warm air dry before clearing.
And, like Barry told me, waiting overnight is best.
So I now spray urethane in the evening and wait till the next morning
to clear. It's a great paint process that I only use for my own.
I don't do "all-overs" for others, only myself.
For my collision repair jobs I only use basecoat, it's easier to work with
and I can match/blend better, easier. I stay too busy with that to
take on complete paint jobs.
Here's my Kirker orange, it looks so much better than the other cars
I've seen with this color on it, I think because I clear coated it.
DSC03436.jpg
 
Looks slick good idea with thinner coats and than the spi clear , i had wondered how that would be thks for the tips and heads up.mad57.
 
If you wanted to get a similar color in another paint system, you might look at some of the majors' custom paint lines, rather than trying to have it matched from their OEM lines.

For example, Dupont has their Hot Hues line, and BASF has Carizzma. Both of these have base coats. I was looking through PPG's vibrance line, but it looks like that's mostly Candy's / special effects. I've used the DuPont line's "Blazing Copper," and although it is pretty spendy, it was pretty easy to get the color to come out very consistently.
 
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