All fillers needed for restoration project

Schroeder said:
I'm not set on it or anything I just kinda thought it's the way to do it based off what a personal friend has told who has done a lot of restorations and from internet searching. I know that's NOT exactly what's been said in this particular thread, but the majority of the ones I've found specified this method. I can be convinced otherwise. It's be nice to have to deal with one less product.
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You can't believe everything you read on the internet. :eek:Lots and lots of guys who have been doing this stuff there whole professional life do many things wrong or that are unnecessary. I've seen it firsthand at every Shop I've ever worked at. All this bad information gets passed around like a doobie at Woodstock and repeated ad nauseum by people who have no idea what they are talking about, but want to seem like they do.

Every forum I've ever been on has had tons and tons of misinformation on body and paint. Nearly every book written about the subject has lots of misinformation. This Forum is special in that there is a group of hardcore Pro's here who through years of experience, #1 know how to do good work, and #2 know the correct procedures to do good work and to make it last 15, 20, 25 years or more.

If you are given advice here on this Forum, you can trust it is correct and sound advice. You don't need to question it.
 
I've been following this thread and I didn't want to hijack, but it seems to have slowed a bit. Related-ish question...did something happen to filler prices? I bought a 0.8L can when I was doing my Spitfire and I think it was around $45. Now that I'll start to need it for the TR4, it's over $90? Is that a COVID thing? Yes, I bought at Amazon the first time, so maybe I would be better off finding it somewhere else?
Thanks,
Chris
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
You can't believe everything you read on the internet. :eek:Lots and lots of guys who have been doing this stuff there whole professional life do many things wrong or that are unnecessary. I've seen it firsthand at every Shop I've ever worked at. All this bad information gets passed around like a doobie at Woodstock and repeated ad nauseum by people who have no idea what they are talking about, but want to seem like they do.

Every forum I've ever been on has had tons and tons of misinformation on body and paint. Nearly every book written about the subject has lots of misinformation. This Forum is special in that there is a group of hardcore Pro's here who through years of experience, #1 know how to do good work, and #2 know the correct procedures to do good work and to make it last 15, 20, 25 years or more.

If you are given advice here on this Forum, you can trust it is correct and sound advice. You don't need to question it.
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Thanks. I ordered the roll of tan colored ones barry recommended: Tork 520337.

cmfisher4 said:
I've been following this thread and I didn't want to hijack, but it seems to have slowed a bit. Related-ish question...did something happen to filler prices? I bought a 0.8L can when I was doing my Spitfire and I think it was around $45. Now that I'll start to need it for the TR4, it's over $90? Is that a COVID thing? Yes, I bought at Amazon the first time, so maybe I would be better off finding it somewhere else?
Thanks,
Chris
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The best deals I've found on filler since seeking information here have been on ebay.
 
I've always been able to get a better price on filler through my local jobber than online. That being said you can get Rage Ultra online for under $60. Just Google it. Many things on Amazon are overpriced.
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
I've always been able to get a better price on filler through my local jobber than online. That being said you can get Rage Ultra online for under $60. Just Google it. Many things on Amazon are overpriced.
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ya. I thought my local guy was cheapest too. He had rage ultra for $59/gal. Amazon and all the vendor sites online were $10-$20 more. Ebay has it as the first him from a supplier for $49/gal.
 
Is this a good method to fill and sand the fender flares where the flat side of the panel meets a concave curve and then turns in to a convex curve? The whole filler discussion was started by my questions on filling these portions of my quarters and eventually front fenders where I have and will be welding in the extra metal need for the wide wheels I have.

The video the guy tapes off the flare with the tape on the flare and below a line where it starts, fills in the flat panel, sands, tapes off the the flare with the tape on the flat portion of the panel he just did, fills the flare, and sands the flare. He does this same thing over a top body line on the car's quarter.


When u guys plug weld parts to the car do u strip the epoxy off both sides after painting it so the burned off paint from welding isn't left sandwiched on between 2 welded panels? Then inject epoxy in the crack?


Or do u strip as little off as u can just so you can start a good plug weld, burn off some paint, between the 2 panels, and still inject epoxy in the crack?
 
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Schroeder said:
Is this a good method to fill and sand the fender flares where the flat side of the panel meets a concave curve and then turns in to a convex curve? The whole filler discussion was started by my questions on filling these portions of my quarters and eventually front fenders where I have and will be welding in the extra metal need for the wide wheels I have.

The video the guy tapes off the flare with the tape on the flare and below a line where it starts, fills in the flat panel, sands, tapes off the the flare with the tape on the flat portion of the panel he just did, fills the flare, and sands the flare. He does this same thing over a top body line on the car's quarter.
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Did anyone see this? Is this a good method?
 
123pugsy said:
Sure, if you have a crisp line where they meet. Do you have that?
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it's a gradual radius from the convex wheel flare into the quarter panel. It might be something like a 1 - 1.5" radius if I were to check it with a profile gauge and transfer the profile to paper.
 
Then, I'd say no to the tape line. Time for some sculpting. I just did some when I Bondo'd my El Camino wheel well flares over the winter. They didn't come perfect but no one has mentioned it.
 
I had a fella mention about using the sticky sandpaper on a piece of plastic drain pipe. It works well for sanding inside radii.
 
Thanks guys. I found some videos that are helpful.



.






The first goes over fixing a crack. He braces each side of the crack with a little piece of angle iron and a stick. This addresses some of the questions I had earlier. The second video is a very detailed review on filling a hole. I found this video in my search for how to fix holes after watching the first video and seeing how he screwed his brace to the fiberglass. Maybe these videos will help somebody else doing searches in the future.



The second video doesn't show it, but at the end the guy discusses how he repeats the process on the back side. So in my case this would be applicable because I will cut the part, v groove one side, lay the mat in, flip the part over, v groove into the same spot and into some of the fiberglass I just laid, and re-lay Matt into the second side so both sides of the crack are repaired with material in them and are enforced.



Is that a good battle plan, is that the jist of it? If so I think it's time to stop asking questions and just get to it!
 
Sorry, confused. Your Trans Am is fiberglass?
What is it you want to groove out?

Any pictures of what you're doing?
 
Hey guys. I'm probably just going to use the factory endura rear bumper as opposed to trying to fix the wavy fiberglass bumper cover.

I've seen the discussions and how to's on using 3M flexible EX sand filler. The go-to part number seems to be 3M 05891. That's out of stock everywhere. I'm guessing that's in response to the China virus.

Is there an alternative? Is there a new part number? I have some indication from internet searching that 3M 05895 may be a suitable substitute or a replacement part number, but I'm not sure. I don't want to use the wrong thing and have to do it again.

Does anyone know what I can use since 05891 seems to be so hard to find right now?
 
Schroeder said:
Hey guys. I'm probably just going to use the factory endura rear bumper as opposed to trying to fix the wavy fiberglass bumper cover.

I've seen the discussions and how to's on using 3M flexible EX sand filler. The go-to part number seems to be 3M 05891. That's out of stock everywhere. I'm guessing that's in response to the China virus.

Is there an alternative? Is there a new part number? I have some indication from internet searching that 3M 05895 may be a suitable substitute or a replacement part number, but I'm not sure. I don't want to use the wrong thing and have to do it again.

Does anyone know what I can use since 05891 seems to be so hard to find right now?
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Evercoat 411 Poly-Flex Flexible Polyester Glazing Putty is made for that application as well. I've used it and it worked well for me.​

 
Dean Jenkins said:

Evercoat 411 Poly-Flex Flexible Polyester Glazing Putty is made for that application as well. I've used it and it worked well for me.​

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Thanks for the fast reply. Is either preferable over the other or is it just a matter of "either or"?

The 3m stuff is hard to come by. I just ordered 1 3M kit, but it won't be enough and is over priced.
 
Schroeder said:
Thanks for the fast reply. Is either preferable over the other or is it just a matter of "either or"?

The 3m stuff is hard to come by. I just ordered 1 3M kit, but it won't be enough and is over priced.
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I've only used the Evercoat so can't compare. It is not cheap either, $80 for 30 ounces.
 
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