All fillers needed for restoration project

Can little divets in welds like this be covered with any filler? Do u need to use Duraglass? Do I need to strip the paint, fill with weld, and repaint?
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Typically I will dot (hand touch-up) the holes with epoxy until they fill. That seals them against moisture penetration. I guess the perfect way would be never to have primed that, and to have welded 100% of the pinholes shut, but in my experience, we live in an imperfect world. If you use epoxy to seal those holes before continuing, you'll be ahead of 99.9% of other shops.
 
Typically I will dot (hand touch-up) the holes with epoxy until they fill. That seals them against moisture penetration. I guess the perfect way would be never to have primed that, and to have welded 100% of the pinholes shut, but in my experience, we live in an imperfect world. If you use epoxy to seal those holes before continuing, you'll be ahead of 99.9% of other shops.
Thanks. My "pinhole" inspection has always focused on holes that go all the through a panel (light or liquid will pass through). From now on I'll be more focused on these pin "craters" too. I will definitely fill them with epoxy from a tooth pick or baby medicine syringe.
 
Thanks. My "pinhole" inspection has always focused on holes that go all the through a panel (light or liquid will pass through). From now on I'll be more focused on these pin "craters" too. I will definitely fill them with epoxy from a tooth pick or baby medicine syringe.
Yeah, because even if they don't go all the way through, they probably connect to a small cavity where corrosion can begin. Covering that with porous filler can start a long-term corrosion problem in motion. Sealing it with epoxy turns it into a little time capsule, sealed off from the elements and the moisture wicking that scratched or chipped filler can bring.
 
Yeah, because even if they don't go all the way through, they probably connect to a small cavity where corrosion can begin. Covering that with porous filler can start a long-term corrosion problem in motion. Sealing it with epoxy turns it into a little time capsule, sealed off from the elements and the moisture wicking that scratched or chipped filler can bring.
Thanks for the great explanation. While looking back through this post I saw another member mentioned filling in pinholes "from porosity.". Surely this is what he meant. I was only thinking about the holes that all went all the way through. Now I know!

Next question; The SPI epoxy tech manual says that fiberglass infused fillers should be put directly over bare metal. I want to confirm this. To me This says that I need to stand off the epoxy where I plan to use dirt glass to put it directly on bare metal. This of course doesn't seem like a good idea because I lose the corrosion protection and create a spot where water and dirt can fester and eventually pop under the duraglass.

I did some Google searches. I saw an old thread where Barry mentioned that this was first recommended because one time there was a short little stint where a fiberglass infused filler had issues from the manufacturer that caused it to pop off of epoxy base. This issue was corrected, so my understanding that it is still best to put the dura glass over the epoxy. I have to ask though because this is in contradiction to the 2020 through 2021 tech manual that SPI epoxy provided with my last purchase.

One comment said something about duraglass ghosting. I'm guessing this means it shows up after it shrinks a little bit or something through all the top coats above it? Is this generally true or a rarity?
 
I don’t understand why you are so set on using Duraglass. I don’t see anything in those pics that would warrant its use. It’s really not necessary imho.

FWIW an air file would do a nice quick job of cleaning up the welds in that first pic above imho. Would likely need less filler. Just don’t get too carried away and go too deep and reduce the thickness of the original metal.

Don
 
Solid metal is the best thing for the durability of your project. What you are showing is not horrible, believe me lots of "professionals" can"t or wont take the time to do better. Try and treat every weld as if it is the only spot you have to fix, grind, sand inspect it like it was never going to be covered up with paint and primer. Believe me I understand the desire to get some primer on there and move on, but just a little more of what you have already done would take pinholes and voids out of the picture.
 
I don’t understand why you are so set on using Duraglass. I don’t see anything in those pics that would warrant its use. It’s really not necessary imho.

FWIW an air file would do a nice quick job of cleaning up the welds in that first pic above imho. Would likely need less filler. Just don’t get too carried away and go too deep and reduce the thickness of the original metal.

Don
I'm not set on it or anything I just kinda thought it's the way to do it based off what a personal friend has told who has done a lot of restorations and from internet searching. I know that's NOT exactly what's been said in this particular thread, but the majority of the ones I've found specified this method. I can be convinced otherwise. It's be nice to have to deal with one less product.

I have one quarter on. I'm worried I missed some of these weld porosity craters, and no I want get to them. They might be on the back side of the panel. Maybe I'll use a little Duraglass under the edge ultra on that quarter (PS) for the supposed water proofing the Duraglass provides in case any missed weld craters fester and start rusting in 30 years. Now I know the danger of these craters and can address them with the DS quarter is still off.

Solid metal is the best thing for the durability of your project. What you are showing is not horrible, believe me lots of "professionals" can"t or wont take the time to do better. Try and treat every weld as if it is the only spot you have to fix, grind, sand inspect it like it was never going to be covered up with paint and primer. Believe me I understand the desire to get some primer on there and move on, but just a little more of what you have already done would take pinholes and voids out of the picture.
Thanks for the reply 1A. Are you saying just bite the bullet, grind, weld, grind down flush, repaint, and move forward with the knowledge to be more vigilant with these craters? I certainly could. It's not like I won't be mixing up any more epoxy soon.

Btw, I have to point out, these welds are a little embarrassing, aren't dressed, and are piling up to cover a cut gap that should have maybe been a little tighter because they're inside a panel that no one will see. I've stopped going insane dressing both sides of welds and making the inside of panels finished perfectly because I'm never going to get my car done and drivable otherwise. It's something I've become ok with. So long as it's structurally sound, is prepped right to stand the test of time, and is still within the realm of being considered "done right" I'm ok with it. To me, the value of the time exceeds the benefits gained from going through the hassle on these areas. Excuses maybe, but it's my logic.
 
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Duraglass isn't actually waterproof, just so you know. It's stronger than regular filler, though. I keep a quart around that lasts past its expiration date, usually when something has to be done that we normally would not do because of real-world money constraints.
 
Also, I purchased a bottle of the everglass as the finishing putty for the entire car. Will I be able to finish the car right rage ultra and the evercoat metal glaze ultra putty? I have a fiberglass bumper cover and nose that I want to use. The metal glaze ultra says fiberglass is a suitable substrate.
 
If you apply your Rage carefully, there will be little need for additional glaze. Meaning apply in thin coats, pressing down as you apply. The thicker the coats, the more pinholes and voids you will have.
When you mix, fold the filler over on itself rather than stirring it. You never want to stir it because you will get air entrapped in the filler and get lots of voids and pinholes

Metal glaze is not a great glaze. It's more of a intermediate type filler. It actually sands harder than Rage does and if you aren't careful you can sand waves into something because of the difference.
You can fill the pinholes you get with more Rage.
 
Anyone using microfiber cloths over traditional tack cloths? Do I need to be worried about wiping the surface down with waterborne wax and grease remover prior to putting the filler on? The tech manual doesn't say anything about doing this. It doesn't say anything about attack cloth either. Thought I would check though.
 
There is thread somewhere with Barry warning against the use of microfiber towels. Some have a product that causes issues with paint. Use proper tack cloths.

Don
 
There is thread somewhere with Barry warning against the use of microfiber towels. Some have a product that causes issues with paint. Use proper tack cloths.

Don
These alright?

TCP Global - Pure Blue Superior Tack Cloths - Tack Rags (Box of 12) - Automotive Car Painters Professional Grade - Removes Dust, Sanding Particles, Cleans Surfaces - Wax and Silicone Free, Anti-Static https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RCZZD3C/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_3BPN7MNM610V1SV0W59W
 
Lot of great info here:
 
Lot of great info here:
thanks. someone mentioned a specific tork part # barry uses, but then no one commented on this to confirm or deny. There was a lot of talk about the "blue tork towels" in the thread you listed. Is that these?
 
thanks. someone mentioned a specific tork part # barry uses, but then no one commented on this to confirm or deny. There was a lot of talk about the "blue tork towels" in the thread you listed. Is that these?
No. We had those at the Shop I worked at last. They were used for drying our hands. They are not a wiper. They are 4ply rough paper towels. The Barry's recommendation in the first link you posted will work well.
Those tacks you posted should work OK. Can't say specifically as I've never used that brand.
 
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