Advice for matching patch panel edge

robking

Promoted Users
Hey folks, once again I come seeking your advice. As always your help is greatly appreciated.

After much massaging I got my window corner patch pretty darn close and got it welded in. By massaging I mean the angle in the corner was wrong (trim would not fit correctly) so I finally ended up stretching the one edge to get the angle. Very happy with how the chrome fits.

PXL_20220808_123155103.MP.jpg


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Getting ready to clean up the backside as best I can reach, but I think with a little hammer and dolly work I will need very little filler.

My problem is the transition of the existing vertical edge to the patch panel. The existing edge is sharper than the patch panel. I'm just hoping to create a gradual transition to disguise it as best as possible (all my other AMD patch panels have been really good but this one took a lot of work even to get to this point).

Is this a good application of lead? Right up from the top edge of this patch is where the roof is leaded to the quarter panel, so its already in use there. I've never worked with lead before but this lip seems like it could take some abuse and any filler would be subject to getting chunks out of it (granted not as bad as something like the edge of a car door). Here's a better picture.

PXL_20220813_195112443.MP.jpg



One other question, you can probably see from the second picture that where I dressed the weld in the valley is rough. I used a 2" 80 grit disc but its almost impossible to keep the edges from digging in that valley. Any advice for dressing welds in a concave area for the next time would be greatly appreciated.
 
Regarding your question about grinding welds down. This Pro tip come from SPI member MP&C.

Use a cut off disk for metal, on edge. I recently started using this trick and it's a game changer.

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Lead would work well there. There is a learning curve to using lead though. Might be steeper than you want to invest the time in.

Here is a link to some info I wrote about using lead. http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?threads/fillers-for-seams-welds.6981/#post-75276

Alternatively, If you are concerned about that gap, you could fill it with weld. Spot it in using your MIG and grind it. Would get you pretty close. Wouldn't require much filler. That area shouldn't be any different than any other area you would use filler on. If you are making contact with things there after its painted somethings wrong.

and like MJM said above a die grinder and a weld grinding wheel are what you want to use when grinding down MIG welds. You would only use a disc for you finishing of the weld. Typically a weld grinding wheel comes in sizes from 1/8" to 1/4" thick. 3/8" arbor.
 
Lead would work well there. There is a learning curve to using lead though. Might be steeper than you want to invest the time in.

Here is a link to some info I wrote about using lead. http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?threads/fillers-for-seams-welds.6981/#post-75276

Alternatively, If you are concerned about that gap, you could fill it with weld. Spot it in using your MIG and grind it. Would get you pretty close. Wouldn't require much filler. That area shouldn't be any different than any other area you would use filler on. If you are making contact with things there after its painted somethings wrong.

and like MJM said above a die grinder and a weld grinding wheel are what you want to use when grinding down MIG welds. You would only use a disc for you finishing of the weld. Typically a weld grinding wheel comes in sizes from 1/8" to 1/4" thick. 3/8" arbor.
Thanks Chris (and MJM). I do use a 3m weld dressing wheel for grinding down my welds after each pass of tacks, leaving just a few thousands proud. In retrospect I should have cleaned them up even more with the wheel before I tried to finish them. I was actually really proud of myself up until I tried to finish the welds in that concave section, I thought for the first time I might actually have a patch panel I could claim needed no filler. It will still look fine after a little work but would have preferred not to have to do it to begin with.

Oh well, still learning... :rolleyes:

I was wondering along the same lines as far as just tacking some weld along the top of that ridge. It's very easy to dress that with a flat file and get a clean line. I think that will be simpler than trying to learn how to master lead. Plus if there is a little filler there but the majority is hard metal I think it will withstand any minor bumps. The rear window design on those late 60's Mopars should be an episode of "engineering disasters".

Still going to read your post on lead though, I might get adventurous. You and Robert always make things sound like even a goober like me can do them.

Yet another side note, I religiously hammered each one of my tacks even though I pretty much had both arms extended about as far as I could reach. I'm 99% sure I was just making myself feel good, those damn MIG welds are hard as a rock even when with good penetration and not very proud either side. However I don't believe I picked up hardly any distortion, so I'm calling it a win.

At $439 this deal is looking more and more tempting, and I wouldn't be hammering those hard ass welds.


Thanks again for the excellent advice folks!
 
I use a steel block that is about 2.5 thick by 4x5" with the edges ground at different radii as a dolly to sharpen or dull or move creases and corners when needed. If you have access to the back side you could still sharpen the radius with an air hammer chisel ground to the correct shape to hammer that edge outward at the peak of the radius to sharpen it. Welding the edge up and grinding it to shape would work but will likely warp the panel, or lead would work.
 
I use a steel block that is about 2.5 thick by 4x5" with the edges ground at different radii as a dolly to sharpen or dull or move creases and corners when needed. If you have access to the back side you could still sharpen the radius with an air hammer chisel ground to the correct shape to hammer that edge outward at the peak of the radius to sharpen it. Welding the edge up and grinding it to shape would work but will likely warp the panel, or lead would work.
Unfortunately there's little access from the back. Since it has a lot of angles nearby to stiffen it, I went with the welding approach, hot and fast tacks. I think it turned out ok.

PXL_20220814_201941625.jpg
 
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