8000 trizact

!500 grit before compounding is old school rough. Results are what matters, but I'd definitely prefer to sand smoother first on paint having the choice.
Jim, glad you changed your mind about the new product, since I got the twin 5 pack waiting on me to try.
 
at 1500 your workin the crap out of that paint with the buffer. lol. the paint will always have a slight texture to it also compared to clear that has been finish sanded to a higher grit like 3000 and up.
 
over buffing it will leather the finish . it will be shiny but still have that fine leather look . creating excessive heat burns the surface . one of the reasons they developed all the new finer grit sanding systems .
i fought this during the late 70's when lacquer started going away . the urethanes were hell to polish .
 
I don't know, you all have so much more experience than I, but I never subscribed to the "don't skip a grit" 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000 practice. Seems like a waste of time. If there is still a texture when stopping at 1500 I can't see it. The compound is doing the work. Maybe someone with more experience can see the difference. I once used the same method and products, but skipped the 1500 step, ie. went straight from 1000 to the Jescar compound. I did a small area, 12x12", and the middle 8"x 8" area was scratch free. I used a brand new pad and could never get those results again with a once used pad.

Jescar is sold out of the same building at Menzerna USA about 5 miles from me. If you are trying out new things, give them a call and ask for a 4 oz sample bottle of their correction compound and micro finishing polish. Try my method and tell us what you think. (877) 453-7227. I have no financial interest in this, just sharing my experience to the board.
 
nothing worse than cleaning one up then going outside and seeing missed 1k scratches . an old indian once told me " what there when start be there when finished "
back in the 70's there was a grit guide that showed grits in a graft . showed depth of scratches . made it much easier to understand . i found using every grit made it easier to remove scratches and cut my polish time way down . use less paper also . i spend my time final polishing instead of " buffing out " scratches . i'm old and worn out . don't have time for all this labor stuff .
 
Got back into this a little today.

I deleted my above post about seeing kind of a leather look after reading shine's explanation. My post was kind of confusing so I just got rid of it. I believe what I see is scratches and not from overheating. Scratches I haven't gotten fully buffed out, or scratches put back in from being aggressive with the wool pad that I haven't yet got out. Nothing too alarming but Im extremely critical of my own work.

I guess with that said I started sanding and buffing on the outside of my box today, the last piece I haven't done anything with. I started sanding with 1000, 1200, and then 1500. I didn't stay on the 1000 or 1200 that long, enough to get 50 percent of the orange peel off. I then worked the 1500 pretty good until 95 to 100 percent of the peel was off before switching to 2000. From there I went to 3000, and then the new 8000. I have always had trouble on the initial cut because I seem to under sand, or dont sand fine enough. So I worked the 3000 for about double what I normally would, and then the 8000 probably not long enough looking back on it.

When it came to buffing I still had to use wool on the first cut, but I didn't need the high speed and I didn't have to keep on it that long to be done. This was a huge improvement for me, previously I would really have to work the wool, I mean really work it to get to where I could switch over to foam. I have always been able to get decent results minus what I talked about above, but it always took forever. If I had to guess I would say its taken me about half the time to get where I am now when comparing to my previous way. To top it off I dont see any of the texture or scratches I referenced above.

Still some refining to do and a lot to learn, but Im heading in the right direction. I wanted to thank you guys for posting about the new paper and discussing the methods you use.
 
i use the yellow heavy cut pad instead of wool. a wool pad can be your best friend or your worst enemy . i prefer the yellow pad because it dies not create any heavy swirls . if the yellow pad does not create a nice gloss right away you have left heavy scratches in the surface .
 
I've got a yellow pad I could try. I first tried an orange one and it did gloss up but I had some courser scratches yet. I'm not sure as to what grit they were but I'm guessing nothing too deep as they were gone pretty easily.

On the other side I'd like to stay on the 8000 a few more passes and see if that helps as well.
 
on the next piece use paper in different angles . then make one pass with yellow . if scratches show you will know which grit was not worked out . by 8000 there should be no sand scratches left . but 8000 is not going to get rid of 1k -1500 grit .
 
Awesome. Thanks, Shine.

You skip the v34 (obviously). I think I remember reading that...use the pad change to change the cut vice the compound?
 
34 is a hybrid . never really used it but guess i should . it comes with the sampler kit .
changing pads clear up the finish. the yellow pad will not finish polish no matter what compound is used .
 
Shine, I just purchased a sample pack from CG a couple weeks ago. On the two jobs I have used them for I used V32 then switch to V36 with the orange pad. Then V38 and black. I have only used it on two jobs so far, one white car and one silver car so they appeared to looked good. From your experience will using the orange pad with V36 cause me issues on darker colors or should I try the white pad?
 
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