68 Camaro 1/4 panel repair

[Chevynutz]

Looking for advice and or suggestions on 1/4 panel repair. Should i cut out just the rusted area and butt weld in new piece or full 1/4 replace ? . I have a full OER 1/4 not worried if i have to cut it up to make the repair. Thanks.

 

[SMS]

I'd suggest that if the car is any of the more valuable variants, eg. SS, Z/28, RS, big block, basically anything over the base car, original sheet metal with date codes stamps intact means something. So saving the original quarter with a good section repair is the way to go. Esp with those good gaps, that part of the project is already done for you.

 

[dhutton01]

I would replace it but preserve the door jamb section if it is good. Just cut and butt weld along the door edge to help hold the shape. Repop door jambs are hit and miss. This will also preserve the nice door gap and shape.

Butt welding in a patch of the whole wheel arch will take some effort and access to the back side for planishing is limited. I suspect you will find the outer wheel housing rotted too once you get into it. Trunk drop off too.

Don

 

[SMS]

Here is where your quarter panel date codes are just for reference.

 

[Chevynutz]

I'd suggest that if the car is any of the more valuable variants, eg. SS, Z/28, RS, big block, basically anything over the base car, original sheet metal with date codes stamps intact means something. So saving the original quarter with a good section repair is the way to go. Esp with those good gaps, that part of the project is already done for you.

Car is a plane jane base with original trans and 327 long gone so not worried about the numbers. I agree about the gaps .

 

[Chevynutz]

I have watched Fitzee's fabrication video a few times and with my limited skills kind of wanted to stay away from the pillar and roof area tie inn. I have a new outer wheelhouse to cut and piece back. The trunk drop off looks good from the bottom as did the drivers side when i did the behind the wheel patch panel already. Here is the wheel arch repair video. https://youtu.be/Azez3ZYR03c Thanks for replying guys.

 

[dhutton01]

If you don’t want to get into the sail panel then maybe replace the whole quarter just below the body line. The sharp corner will help hold the shape and resist distortion due to welding. I would still retain original jamb.

Don

 

[Chevynutz]

If you don’t want to get into the sail panel then maybe replace the whole quarter just below the body line. The sharp corner will help hold the shape and resist distortion due to welding. I would still retain original jamb.

Don

Thinking of going this route , what do you think Don. ? Better to cut on top or side does one have advantage over other. The only problem i might have is my tail panel is good and will be in place and moving the new skin forward to set in proper location. Guess it depends on where i cut it at the back.

 

[dhutton01]

Thinking of going this route , what do you think Don. ? Better to cut on top or side does one have advantage over other. The only problem i might have is my tail panel is good and will be in place and moving the new skin forward to set in proper location. Guess it depends on where i cut it at the back.

I would do it on the side to retain the peak/body line. At least that is the way I have done it in the past.

Don

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

That is basically what I did with my signature car.
The key is getting everything lined up perfectly before making your cuts and then ensure the new quarter is secured in the proper place as you make your first series of spot welds.

I had never done a quarter replacement before, so it was a very long process. My welding experience was limited as well but the Gas MIG welder did get the job done.

I started by screwing the panel in key spots to hold it in place. Then I welded the first round of spot welds like every 3 inches, constantly checking the panel seam alignment and making sure I didn't overheat it. Then I placed a weld in the center of the 3" welds and repeated the entire process until I had no gaps left.

I ground the welds flat on the outside and on the inside where I could reach them.

After two coats of epoxy primer.

The pros make this look easy but you can do it, if you don't get into a hurry and take it one step at a time.

 

[Chevynutz]

That is basically what I did with my signature car.
The key is getting everything lined up perfectly before making your cuts and then ensure the new quarter is secured in the proper place as you make your first series of spot welds.

I had never done a quarter replacement before, so it was a very long process. My welding experience was limited as well but the Gas MIG welder did get the job done.
View attachment 23398

I started by screwing the panel in key spots to hold it in place. Then I welded the first round of spot welds like every 3 inches, constantly checking the panel seam alignment and making sure I didn't overheat it. Then I placed a weld in the center of the 3" welds and repeated the entire process until I had no gaps left.

View attachment 23399

I ground the welds flat on the outside and on the inside where I could reach them.

View attachment 23400

View attachment 23401

After two coats of epoxy primer.

View attachment 23402

View attachment 23404

The pros make this look easy but you can do it, if you don't get into a hurry and take it one step at a time.

Nice work 68, did you overlap and cut both panels at the same time cutting straight down or 45 degree and weld and remove excess metal from the cut later ? Looks to be cut straight down . How far down is your cut from the top of the fender , 1'' ?

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

About an 1" down. The idea is to take advantage of the rigidity of the bend at the top.
I did cut straight down.
Now I would trace the edge with a marker, remove the quarter and cut so that the fit would be much tighter. The gap I had was way too big.
The difficulty when doing it this way, is getting the new panel held firmly in place. By over lapping you can use screws to hold it.

 

[Chevynutz]

Ok i'm all in with all the help you guys can give me. The top 12'' of the outer wheelhouse is all that's usable so i would like to piece it back without cutting the whole thing out. # 1 Should i just cut the outer 2'' off all the way around and weld in new. #2 Has anyone done one of these with the tail panel in place ? The new quarter tucks in behind the tail panel and has a lip but can't tell if it's spot welded as it;s behind the trunk drop off .

 

[El Toro]

You will get a few answers and depends on the level of restoration you want. But yes you can section the outer wheel house panel in. Make sure it lines up and seales good and try to do a invisable repair. Same with the quarter. In the collision shops done every day.

 

[Dave C.]

When I change an outer wheelhouse it is cut just about 3/4” from the flange so I don’t have to mess with the spot welded flange. Also when looking in the trunk when the car is finished, you don’t see the repair. On the wheel side the seam gets covered with seam sealer for a factory appearing seam.

Yes, the tail panel and quarter panels have a spot welded lip keeping them together.

 

[Chevynutz]

About an 1" down. The idea is to take advantage of the rigidity of the bend at the top.
I did cut straight down.
Now I would trace the edge with a marker, remove the quarter and cut so that the fit would be much tighter. The gap I had was way too big.
The difficulty when doing it this way, is getting the new panel held firmly in place. By over lapping you can use screws to hold it.

So i am set up to overlap and use screws now, you suggest cutting through skin and underlying metal on car at same time correct ?

 

[Chevynutz]

Got the outer wheelhouse repair done in epoxy !

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

So i am set up to overlap and use screws now, you suggest cutting through skin and underlying metal on car at same time correct ?

At one point I did it that way, however I now position the patch panel and then trace the outline where it will be welded. Then I remove the patch and cut inside of that line. This gives a much better fit and eliminates the gap for the most part.

 

[dhutton01]

Dykem layout fluid and a sharp awl gives a nice sharp cut line. I use the aerosol.

Don

 

[Chevynutz]

Thanks to all that replied to my ?'s, Greatly appreciated. Time for a skim coat and block it out.