67 Coyote RoushStang

C

Chris

I started this project two years ago with a car i found and purchased off of ebay. The 67 Mustang fastback was originally being built by unique performance as a Supersnake Eleanor. The Mustang came with a VIN, so that was appealing, and the seller told me that the body was pretty much ready for paint, which turned out to be far from the truth. At first i thought i would build it as an Eleanor clone, but over time, i changed my mind and decided to do more of a Shelby/Eleanor combo. I did a little research on the car and found that it came from my home town before it was purchased by unique performance. i actually managed to tracked down the previous owner through facebook, but he didnt have much info on the car.

Anyway, this is where it started two years ago

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First step was to install the Total Control Products rear end with 9" third member and Fab 9 housing

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Total Control Products subframe connectors

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Step 2 was cutting out the shock towers and installing the TCI front end.

I payed a shop to do this work and unfortunately, they got a little too torch happy cutting out the towers.

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The shop claims it took them 42 hours to prep and weld in the front end, this did not include cutting out the shock towers. at 45.00 per hour, that was a painful bill and one i did not expect. The front end quickly went from affordable to not so affordable.

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After that was door alignment. Unique had put skins on original doors and they did not fit well, so the shop added metal to them.

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I then decided to have the driprails removed.

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Next i installed the front suspension and attempted to fit the coyote motor, but quickly ran into interference issues with the crossmember and firewall. I brought the car home shortly after because the shop bills were getting way too high.

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Here is one of the problems I ran into with the TCI system and the modular motor. There isn't even enough clearance for an SN95 master cylinder, so I had to go with a custom pedal assembly with a 90 degree booster.



The exhaust manifolds were another problem. I had to cut the flange and reweld it on the driver's side. The passenger side header will need to be completely reworked as two of the tubes hit the frame rail.



The next problem was the transmission and mount. I do not know why TCI insists on designing the engines to sit so high, but they do. Dave stribling mounts do not have this problem, even with a supercharger and t-56 trans, but then your only option is for a strut style front suspension. Apparently the rod and customs front end fits does not experience these problems either, but I have not used them, so I cannot comment myself.
The tunnel needs to be raised almost 2 inches and the firewall needs to be modified to allow the bellhousing to clear and so that it can be removed in the future for clutch changes and other maintenance.



Just slightly off here.



I had to change the oil pan and notch the crossmember for clearance.



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I decided to ditch the upper Eleanor scoops and go with a custom Shelby Scoop, although in hindsight, I probably should have just left them alone.





Here is more or less what I will end up with.



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I took a long break from the car and then put in about two weeks worth of work last November 2012








I made some custom gussets out of left over metal to support the MTF radiator.





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Here is the trans crossmember after dissection. I had to remove metal and then reweld it to make it work with the TCI set up due to the transmission sitting higher.





Engine installed. I did not have any issues with hood clearance at this point, but I was using a Shelby hood with a scoop.





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Fast forward to June 2013

Then I decided to complicate things and add the Roush Phase 2 625hp Supercharger.





AND slight hood clearance issues!!!



So, I switched back to the Shelby hood and raised the scoop 1-1/4" in the rear and 1" in the front.

 
Introduce body work. I've never really done any bodywork other than minor filling, sanding, and welding, so this is all pretty much new to me.

The lower rockers were fit so poorly that I had to cut them loose and rebond them.

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after



I eliminated the lower recesses for the PIAA lamps because I think the Baja lamps look cheesy.





Lower scoops fit and bonded in place





I eliminated the raised area that Unique added for the Lemans cap and fabricated metal to hold a recessed Gen 3 Viper gas cap.



And that is where the car currently sits more or less. Lots of bodywork has been accomplished, but there is still so much to do. Ill post updates as I have them.

Here is the color I chose for the body. This will be combined with silver super snake stripes.



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I've been working on the hood the last two days.

As i stated previously, i had to raise the hood scoop 1-1/4" to clear the supercharger.

Yesterday I started grafting in material where there were voids at the three connecting points/spears on the front of the scoop. I also cut the rear section loose from the underlying hood surround support.
First step after cutting out the rear ledge of the hood scoop was to make and area that i could bond material and resin to. I used paint stir sticks wrapped in tape to provide a dam to keep the kitty hair filler in place. I had to make the ledge on the back and the sides.

Here is the back ledge i created after the stir sticks were removed.

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I then used fleece and resin to make the new rear piece of fiberglass that will sit under the scoop.
Here is what the hood looks like now that the spears or nostril bones are connected to the top of the scoop again. It's turning out much better than i originally thought it would.


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7-26-13

Custom upper scoops are finally on the car. I ended up making them non functional and bonded them to the body with 3m panel adhesive. I think I have around 50 hours in these scoops, which is just ridiculous.

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Raised hood scoop. I have way, way too much time in this hood.

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Im going to need to cut the intake elbow and angle it down for hood clearance. The sensor on the side of the throttle body interferes with the side of the hood beyond the scoop. Hopefully the fab shop up the road can work some magic with their tig welder and make everything fit nicely.

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I had a guy that was helping me with the bodywork, but he wasnt very dependable. He liked to show up for about two days of work, then he would disappear for 4 days to two weeks. I havent heard from him in two weeks now, so i guess he is back on the sauce or something.
Hopefully this forum can help me so i will not need to accept his help again in the future. He always has some sort of Amazing excuse and as much as i like the help, im tired of listening to the lies.
 
Well, good & reliable bodymen are pretty rare, so most all of them have good jobs and don't need side work. The car's come a long way though, you have a really cool project going there! I'm sure a custom elbow can get that throttle body down out of the way for you.
 
Awesome project. That's going to look great when it's finished. That whole Unique deal got pretty ugly by the sounds of it.
 
That car is definitely going to be worth it when it's done. You have come this far, I have no doubt that you'll do an amazing job on the body work.
 
Thanks for the comments! I hope it will be worth it and that things will go smoothly with all components after installation. It should go pretty quickly since i am setting everything up now to avoid fabrication and modification after the fresh paint sprayed.
More pictures of the scoops. I spent several hours last week making sure they were formed in as perfectly as I could get them, yet I have found myself spending more time on them this week while prepping the quarters. Back half is pretty much finished. I had to raise the hood another 1/8" for clearance because when I initially measured I forgot to put the front pulley in place. Car is being dropped off tomorrow for custom intake and exhaust.







 
Yes, most people use fiberglass scoops. They are bonded in place with 3m panel adhesive. They arent going anywhere! I yanked on them as hard as i could to make sure they would not come loose. 3m panel bond is probably the most amazing two part epoxy i have ever used.

Finally ready for more spi epoxy primer

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After curing overnight. Now she is off to the fabrication shop for the custom intake.





 
Car looks mean!

This is just my personal preference, but since filler and other coatings can absorb some of the epoxy, it can look a little funky. If I know the job is going to be looked over before more work gets done, I'll scuff it the next day and put on two more coats. That tends to even it out really well. Gives more to block, too, it doesn't go to waste!
 
The fab shop finished cutting and welding the throttle body elbow today to provide clearance for the hood. Ill need to clean up the welds and then have it powdercoated.

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She is officially running now! The car was put on hold because I did not want to tear the car back down for paint until it was running. There was some miscommunication between Roush and I which lead to the wrong software being uploaded. Once that was resolved the car still wouldn't start and it was determined that the PATS had not been turned off. So, as the old saying goes, the third times the charm.

New video posted below
 
Here is a much better video

[video=youtube_share;_oTcoX1P0E0]http://youtu.be/_oTcoX1P0E0[/video]
 
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