5HP 2 stage Quincy compressor at rural king
- Thread starter Schroeder
- Start date
I ran 3/4" copper in my garage. Compressor is in the back room. I dont have a dryer system"yet" but it works well for what it is. I tried not to over think it. Sometimes the internet is bad for giving too much information ,lol
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Schroeder
Promoted Users
Alright fellas. The install is chugging along slowly. I am trying to make an aftercooler between the tank and the compressor head. I had a piece of 3/4 OD HVAC copper laying around. It's rated at 700psi even though it's pliable and seems "soft.". Turns out 3/4 OD x 3/4MNPT compression fittings (or really any 3/4 OD fittings that isn't a shark bite) are hard to find. Really hard. I finally found some at my triad/Parker store. I bought 2 3/4 MNPT x 3/4 OD compression fittings gs and 2 3/4 compression x 3/4 compression couplers. $96!!!!!!!! I took em in case I get in a pinch but I plan on returning these and plumbing up the after cooler using hard type L copper like the rest of the system.
That being said, I'll pry mount it on the wall where the black cords are currently hanging next to the compressor. How many ups and downs should I have and how long? I was going to use 2 10' sticks of 3/4 copper. 2 ups and downs, 2 drain valves at the bottom, that's 4 5' sticks. Is that enough? Do I need 3? I bought enough supplies for 3 if that's what's recommended (30' of after cooler). After this I'd go through my water trap and into the tank.
I was thinking about putting 1 more water trap waaay down the line (35') right before my air hose reel and paint outlet. As you can see the HF dryer is mounted up on the wall. Water from it will drain down into the 3 ball valve leg I don't have up there yet. Those lines are actually angled down to the left of the pictures by 2°, so water will flow and fall to a drain that you probably can't see in the pic.
Also having some trouble deciding what flex line I should use off the head to this after cooler and back. I can't find anything that has the heat rating. Do I need to get a hydraulic line crimped up? What do you guys think?
Side note: this soldering copper pipe together is kinda fun! I enjoy it. Should have been a plumber. Idk if my joints are gonna hold yet, but they look ok and the parts are stuck together now. Hahaha.
That being said, I'll pry mount it on the wall where the black cords are currently hanging next to the compressor. How many ups and downs should I have and how long? I was going to use 2 10' sticks of 3/4 copper. 2 ups and downs, 2 drain valves at the bottom, that's 4 5' sticks. Is that enough? Do I need 3? I bought enough supplies for 3 if that's what's recommended (30' of after cooler). After this I'd go through my water trap and into the tank.
I was thinking about putting 1 more water trap waaay down the line (35') right before my air hose reel and paint outlet. As you can see the HF dryer is mounted up on the wall. Water from it will drain down into the 3 ball valve leg I don't have up there yet. Those lines are actually angled down to the left of the pictures by 2°, so water will flow and fall to a drain that you probably can't see in the pic.
Also having some trouble deciding what flex line I should use off the head to this after cooler and back. I can't find anything that has the heat rating. Do I need to get a hydraulic line crimped up? What do you guys think?
Side note: this soldering copper pipe together is kinda fun! I enjoy it. Should have been a plumber. Idk if my joints are gonna hold yet, but they look ok and the parts are stuck together now. Hahaha.
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Schroeder
Promoted Users
Stainkess steel braided? That's what I need. Was that a custom thing they crimped up for you? I didn't know NAPA did that. Our NAPA is now a carquest. I think it was just a name change/ buyout or something though. They still have all the same stuff. I'll stop there this morning before they close and see what they have.
TP tools also have them in what ever length you want.
http://www.tptools.com/Flexible-Metal-Hose,787.html
http://www.tptools.com/Flexible-Metal-Hose,787.html
Schroeder
Promoted Users
Awesome! Gonna order 2 36" long now. Wish I would have asked this question before so I could have finished the whole project this weekend. Now I'll be waiting for the hoses. Oh well. At least it will have been done right.
How many legs do you guys think I need for the "after cooler"? Is 20' enough? Should I add a 3rd leg? I'm going this route because I think the transmission coolers I was looking at will SEVERLY restrict air flow as the tubes have an ID of 1/4" at best. The actual compressor after coolers are $200+. I can do this option even cheaper than that. Probably $100 at most even if I do 3 legs.
edit: just called tp tools to order some lines. The guy was unable to find temperature rating for the line, but he did say there was rubber in it. Idk if this is the proper line. It's like I need something entirely metal and I can't find anything online. What is everyone here using to get to there after coolers when they have it hung on the wall away from the compressor?
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Schroeder
Promoted Users
Thanks KS for the help shine. I ended up finding these:
INDUSTRIAL GRADE HEAVY DUTY FLEXIBLE METAL HOSE CONNECTOR (MADE IN USA) 3/4" MALE NPT ENDS x 24 inch TOTAL LENGTH STAINLESS STEEL BRAIDED FLEX https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078YYZYTX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fpRIBbZ4R9JDH
I ordered 2 off amazon. I probably only need 1 for coming off the head and going to the after cooler lines, but I'm gonna put 1 coming off the after cooler lines and back into the tank too for piece of mind. I think these are the solution we all need and designed for what we're trying to do here. Let me.knownwhat you think.
I still have to ask, is 20' of 3/4 copper good enough for the after cooler or should I do the 3 sticks worth? Space and money are the steering factors to keep me from going with 3 as always, if it's required to be done right I'll do it though.
Schroeder
Promoted Users
While the ones you linked me too are very nice and would work, they showed price of $96 for 1 at my local O'Reilly's. In my case the Amazon ones were cheaper. I appreciate you showing me the option though.
S
Steamfitter87
You can buy hydraulic hose to go from your air compressor to your wall mount as well I paid 10 to 15 dollar for the ones in my system they came with male pipe thread on the ends so it's easy to hook them up to copper as well. I have 2 60 gallon tanks then it goes through an aftercooler and through an m60 fleetgaurd filter per shine's recommendation. I haven't sprayed much through it yet but so far it works good. I only use the line with the m60 filter for spraying.
Schroeder
Promoted Users
The
The problem with the hydraulic hose is I can't find any rated over 250°F or so. When these compressors run they get hotter than that. I don't want the hose coming apart on the inside and blowing little pieces of dirt throughout my air lines. Maybe I'm going too over the top, but it's for my peace of mind I suppose.
S
Steamfitter87
When you look at they ratings they will say a temp and pressure. As the temp rises the pressure they can handle goes down. Many of them will handle 250 deg at 3000 psi. As that pressure drops the temp they can handle goes up. I've used one for years in my system. Do what you feel comfortable with I'm just a hobbyist painter.
Why not use a laser thermometer to check temps? Friend runs galvanized pipe and pipe itself never gets over 75F . I know because I was there when he set everything up. He has one of the 60 gallon units from Lowe's.
W
Whiskyb
For those that are using copper lines, how or what are you doing to clean them after using flux and solder. Is it a contamination issue for air going through the lines. I cut out my pex today and started replacing my lines from compressor with 3/4" copper