5HP 2 stage Quincy compressor at rural king

Good to know. Thanks guys Bim not buikding a compressor though. I'm getting all new. I'll exchange the qt-5 for the qt-7.5.
 
Listen to crash - that $400 will get you the HF refrigerated dryer delivered to your house and it works good ! Took care of my problems !
 
Alrighty. I have the HF dryer. I just thought that might make the job easier. I'm fully anticipating this not to make as much water as my current compressor too based on reviews. Perhaps that's a misplaced, foolish hope, but others have reported that. I have the QT-5 ready to return. I feel bad. Im gonna get the bugger one though. They stand to make more.money so they shouldn't be mad!
 
I stand corrected. Sorry about the mistake, I didn't dig into the specs on the Quincy. I know of a couple other brands that use the same pump on 5 and 7.5 compressors.
 
At the listed pump speeds the 7.5 will make a lot of heat and water. No way around it. I'd run the pump outlet to a large aftercooler and then into the tank and then dump it into the HF refrigerated dryer. Most refrigerated dryers can only recieve air that is so hot. Most want aftercoolers before to cool the air some. Not sure on the HF though. Also not sure their specs would be detailed enough to know either.

You gotta remember air humidity has a lot to do with moisture so reviews on the web can come from out west or when it's dryer in the winter. I drain way more water in the summer than the winter since the pump is sucking wet air.
 
We have about 30' of pipe bolted to a cinder block wall between the compressor and dryer, it's probably not optimal, but in our dry climate it seems to work with no issue, giving the air a bit of cooling before it hits the dryer. If a long run between units can't be arranged, @Brad J. is right. an aftercooler might be a good idea.
 
shine said:
if i redo my shop again it will be copper . it will last as long as i do. i used pvc because i could cut it out and replace quick . less chance of oil vapors migrating to the booth with new lines . myself i will shy away from the pex type lines. no cooling and just dont trust crimp fittings. had enough a/c lines blow in my day . sweat the copper and be done with it.
you can flush a copper system to clean it.
Click to expand...
Shine, what's the best way to flush copper lines?
 
D.C said:
Shine, what's the best way to flush copper lines?
Click to expand...


See, this is a conundrum for me. I want to use copper. I think it's the best. I live in NW Ohio where we constantly have terrible humidity, and I see copper quickly collecting the green scale that someone mentioned earlier in this thread.

Pex won't cool but will install easy and is so cheap. No steel of course.

Do you guys recommend any cheap intercoolers I can plumb into the Quincy qt-7.5 as an alternative to buying the QT-7.5 max?
 
The idea is to have your system remove the water before it ever hits your pipes.

My system has both pumps running 1 1/4" galvanized pipe through the large fan driven after cooler and dumps the air back down into the lower tank. This aftercooler is rated for 100+ cfm so it is way over kill for the 35 cfm that both compressor provide. I have two of these aftercoolers that I bought on craigslist for 50 bucks and 150 for the other. They are obsolete technology for companies but work great for us.

I have the fan on a switch and only turn it on during blasting. I called two electricians to come and wire them up but they never showed up. I just run them on a switch because I wasn't sure how to wire it so each compressor individually or both would make the fan run. I don't need the fan regardless but when they both run it does cool the outlet. The 1 1/4" pipe into the aftercooler can't be touched but the outlet is room temp when both pipes run and the fan is on.

I take the outlet air from the top blue tank and run it into the green coalescing filter (oil seperator) and runs into a dessicant tower and then into the zeks final filter. I have never gotten a drop of moisture from the bottom of the dessicant tower or the zeks filter. I used to change the tower beads all the time because they were saturated. Now I do it once a year and they look new.

I run a drain on the tank and on the outlet of the aftercooler.

With some ebay/craiglist patience this system would be pretty cheap. Another tank and the overkill aftercooler are the key. The coalescing filter wasn't cheap because I wanted a new one. This seems like a 10 year project with adjustments along the way. Never wanted to spend the money on a branded refrigerated dryer.
 

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Schroeder said:
Alrighty. I have the HF dryer. I just thought that might make the job easier. I'm fully anticipating this not to make as much water as my current compressor too based on reviews. Perhaps that's a misplaced, foolish hope, but others have reported that. I have the QT-5 ready to return. I feel bad. Im gonna get the bugger one though. They stand to make more.money so they shouldn't be mad!
Click to expand...




Schroeder said:
See, this is a conundrum for me. I want to use copper. I think it's the best. I live in NW Ohio where we constantly have terrible humidity, and I see copper quickly collecting the green scale that someone mentioned earlier in this thread.

Pex won't cool but will install easy and is so cheap. No steel of course.

Do you guys recommend any cheap intercoolers I can plumb into the Quincy qt-7.5 as an alternative to buying the QT-7.5 max?
Click to expand...


You are massively confused and are getting worse with too much reading into all this. So much so unless you post a pic of the new 5hp compressor I'm doubting you even bought it. I for one could care less where you are from, the humidity up here ( I'm in W.Pa so I know what it's like) is nothing compared to where some of these guys are from.

You talk like your gonna do it right and put the money down too then back peddle and want to cut corners. Why don't you just use your phone and call someone who deals in them and see what they say about your ideas. I bet you can't properly sweat a joint in copper to hold water (60psi max) let alone hold back 100+psi air.
 
Brad J. said:
The idea is to have your system remove the water before it ever hits your pipes.

My system has both pumps running 1 1/4" galvanized pipe through the large fan driven after cooler and dumps the air back down into the lower tank. This aftercooler is rated for 100+ cfm so it is way over kill for the 35 cfm that both compressor provide. I have two of these aftercoolers that I bought on craigslist for 50 bucks and 150 for the other. They are obsolete technology for companies but work great for us.

I have the fan on a switch and only turn it on during blasting. I called two electricians to come and wire them up but they never showed up. I just run them on a switch because I wasn't sure how to wire it so each compressor individually or both would make the fan run. I don't need the fan regardless but when they both run it does cool the outlet. The 1 1/4" pipe into the aftercooler can't be touched but the outlet is room temp when both pipes run and the fan is on.

I take the outlet air from the top blue tank and run it into the green coalescing filter (oil seperator) and runs into a dessicant tower and then into the zeks final filter. I have never gotten a drop of moisture from the bottom of the dessicant tower or the zeks filter. I used to change the tower beads all the time because they were saturated. Now I do it once a year and they look new.

I run a drain on the tank and on the outlet of the aftercooler.

With some ebay/craiglist patience this system would be pretty cheap. Another tank and the overkill aftercooler are the key. The coalescing filter wasn't cheap because I wanted a new one. This seems like a 10 year project with adjustments along the way. Never wanted to spend the money on a branded refrigerated dryer.
Click to expand...


Very nice setup, Brad J. Thanks for sharing!!


EDIT: I finally got around to watching that guys video on YouTube with the transmission cooler for an aftercooler on his compressor. Pretty simple and straightforward. I think I can do it myself like this for a little bit cheaper than the Quincy version of it. I've contacted some people on eBay to see what pressures, temperatures, and CFM their transmission coolers are rated for. I also thought about the old AC condenser I have for my 77 Firebird. I also emailed an eBay vendor about one that they had for sale that was supposed to be an OEM replacement. It did say that the specs on it exceeded the OEM specifications. I do hesitate to use that condenser because it's so old and I really have no clue what it's rated at. I wonder how many CFM it flows though. That's probably not easy to figure out. Not to mention the unit is really old. I just liked that it had a lot more surface area than a small tranny cooler.

At any rate, you guys have given me plenty of options! Now I just need to find the proper cooler and do something. I'll let you know if I have more questions, and I'll definitely post pics (if it ends up looking good!).
 
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Are you all using type L copper and standard 50/50 solder from Lowe's or any regular place to assemble your copper lines?

The QT-7.5 is here and I hope to start this install on Sunday!
 
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