57 chevy pics

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scotty77

Finally starting to get some parts buffed. I figured i would share and tell everybody how much i like the euro clear. 3 coats then cut with 320 then 2 more. I have heard the euro would buff hard if you let sit too long before buffing. I dont argree. Parts have sat for at least a month and buff up perfect. A ++++ Barry 028.jpg

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I think most clears buff better when fully cured IMO-but I sand to 3000, there is a stage during the cure between fresh and fully locked up that I struggle with. Your best shine is achieved at full cure for sure. I've tried Barry's 320dry suggestion and found it works well. Those parts look nice! Straight and slick!
 
lookin good! i think any good clear is going to buff fine if finished out really good with 3000. i would honestly rather buff when clear is fully cured. might take a bit longer than say a few weeks after paint but worth it imo.
 
Wow, Euro clear looks great!..Excellent work! With results like that why use universal or MS?..are they just more durable? I think Barry mentioned that the UV and MS buff even easier after a period of time and are more durable?
 
Yea spotless! And the reason for using euro is i just like the way it sprays. And i think any of the spi clears would be plenty long lasting.
 
Use 320 on a 8 inch durablock. Then run over it with 600 on a da with a soft interface pad on it. Everybody has there own way of doing it. I have just found this way works very good for me.
 
Euro has the same core resins as the MS and Universal.. There are solvency differences and ISO blend differences, but you will never have an issue with it failing..

Barry would not create the clear if it wasn't going to be worth a shit after a few years.. Just not his style and honestly no reason to create such a headache.. That is my opinion at least..
 
Which Euro are you using? Ive shot the Euro 2020 part number 5000 and like it but I see that there is also a Euro 5100. What is the difference? THANKS!
Kevin H
 
I like the 5100.. Mixed 4:1:1.. Sprays and lays out like glass.. Ive not used the 5000..
 
I have heard nothing but great things about the Euro and it's cheaper then MS or universal...Sounds like it buffs fine too..so why not just use Euro?...same resins, same durability?..any point of MS or Universal if that's the case?
 
Dan the Universal and the MS are the Cadillac's so to speak.. While the Euro may share the same resin.. and that is a gift on Barrys part.. The best of the best is the Universal and MS..

I wouldnt want to try and buff the Euro out again like I have the Universal when its 3 years old.. Thats just one thing.. Im not saying at 3 years you couldnt buff it, but not with the ease of the universal or ms..

There are more UV inhibitors in the Universal and MS... Much better ISO blend etc.. There are reasons those two clears are the caddys.. May not be that noticable to you or I as we spray them, but there are differences..

Barry has also improved the clear since its initial run.. Listening to his customer base and creating a much more user friendly than the first run.. I look at the Euro as a give me clear.. He gives you the best you can have for as little money as possible.. No one else is doing that..

That is my 2 quarts worth anyways...

I have sprayed allot of different brand clears over the years.. The majority of them sprayed great, buffed great and looked great.. But there is allot more to a clear than that..

Personally I think Barry shares far to much information about the products with the general public,, but that is just who he is.. Very passionate about his company and customers

Hope I answered some of your questions Dan
 
Hi BondoKing, Barry has explained the same thing to me as you did. I understand that the MS and Universal are the "Cadillac" of clears, but it sounds like the Euro is amazing. I have sprayed several clears as well, from brand A-Z and never had a failure with any of them.. I guess the question is how good does it have to be? Some were under $100.00 a setup and others closer to $400.00..I'm often wish I was a chemist and has access to an expensive laboratory. I would love to know what's in the $400.00 clear as apposed to the $100.00 clear. I often think maybe you could get away with an inexpensive clear on a hot rod or antique as they are usually garage queens and only go out in the best weather with 10 coats of wax on them. If a inexpensive clear was to last 2 years on a "regular" car, this equates to many many years for an antique or hot rod. I understand you can't build mill thickness with the cheaper clears like the more expensive ones, but many people are shooting 3 coats, cutting and buffing. I wish clear had a "rating" on it, like the way motor oil is rated, that is, an API and SAE rating to give you a "ball Park" idea as to how the product rates. I do like Barry's customer service and to my door service, it can't be beat! Not only does Barry offer a great line of products but he's always more then happy to assist me on my projects, try getting help from another paint line...don't think it would happen.
 
Dan im just gonna call it like I see it.. Something smells fishy.. very fishy to put it politically correct!

Recently I have seen you ask question after question about the products.. Deep specific questions.. Yet you already seem to know the answer as in your above post.. So I cant for the life of me figure out what reasoning there is behind this..

I will tell you I am not the only one noticing this either!

Follow me?? Nothing at all wrong asking questions, but asking questions to the open forum when you have spoken with Barry directly and already been given the answer seems underhanded to me.. I mean who the hell knows the products better than Barry

Do you see this?

Again, to me, its as if your asking so someone else can read what you have been told by Barry himself on an open forum.. Quite possibly another paint line that is trying to get your business or something.. Perhaps not at all, but it doesnt look good..

You may want to check yourself, before Ive had a sleepless 24-36 hours and get on here and see one of these post.. I wont be so polite next time

Oh and by the way, Just because you speak well of the products and Barry after an underhanded question, doesn't negate the fact at hand
 
HI BondoKing, I'm sorry if it came across that way, by no means do I mean it that way. I have always had an interest in chemicals and how they work, alwAys enjoyed the chemistry classes I took in college. I have spokeN with Barry several times and always have gotten great feedback from him. I was just simply saying that the Euro clear sounds great..and it's nice to get feedback form you guys that have tried the product, I never used Euro. I then mentioned that I have used several clears over the years and many have performed well. I do enjoy Barry's great knowledge of products and his help on autobody as well. By NO MEANS do I attempt to through out bad questions. I simply saw the amazing results of the Euro on the 57v Chevy, and said to myself wow, looks amazing!...If you can achieve results like that with Euro why use anything else?...I then backed up my statement understanding that the MS and Universal are supreme products...Much like Glasurit is better then RM Diamont, etc, etc. I then mentioned is it necessary to be "ulta durable" in ANYONES PRODUCT LINE...after all we mainly restoring garage queens and trailer queens that don't see nearly the abuse of a daily driver from the collision repair world. WHAT'W WRONG WITH THAT?....I FEEL I'M GETTING BEAT UP FOR NO GOOD REASON???..sorry Bondoking if I said something bad, I enjoy the forum and products and am always seeking more knowledge on any product, guess that comes from being in the field of education, and always wanting to learn....SORRY!
 
scotty77;7929 said:
Im using the 5000 euro. The 5100 is the 2.1 low voc verson.

Yes, all I did was pre reduce it for you to make it VOC compliant.
 
Should be putting it back together in a couple weeks. I will post some pics
 
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