Exactly what I was thinking !!! It's an addiction (but a good one).
42' Cadillac
- Thread starter Brad J.
- Start date
Exactly what I was thinking !!! It's an addiction (but a good one).
Jim C
Oldtimer
with that type of car and age there is no....ill stop here or thats good enough. it has to be done 100% because everything is so old and bad. you cant restore one part of it and leave the other all flaky rust. those things are a restore every part, nut, bolt and washer. then you need to dive into the wood part of it. not sure what is wood in this one but on mine it was alot of complex structural pieces that took a few weeks to laminate and replicate. they are such an expensive car to restore and unless you have a rare one that is worth a ton of money then its difficult to do. the one i did i know the owner had close to 200k wrapped up in the resto.
Shooting the frame and underside of body used a couple gallons of epoxy. Four mixed gallons netted me 3 good coats and everything is covered. I used a bunch with the gun spraying a pin point spraying heavy into areas I couldn't do with a fan shape. It came out really nice for not pulling the body. Original plan was epoxy followed by some good undercoating on the bottom of the body but it turned out good enough I was done. This won't be a trailer queen but it will be nice.
I didn't get carried away on the firewall. Just 400 sanded and sprayed base clear. I was going to use base clear on the parts that I'm painting on this car but decided to do single stage on the rest. Last black job I sprayed SS with I told myself I wouldn't use it again but here I go. (I just had twice the work to buff it compared to the Universal)
I didn't get carried away on the firewall. Just 400 sanded and sprayed base clear. I was going to use base clear on the parts that I'm painting on this car but decided to do single stage on the rest. Last black job I sprayed SS with I told myself I wouldn't use it again but here I go. (I just had twice the work to buff it compared to the Universal)
Attachments
I wasn't paying attention and hit post reply instead of upload a file. The goal is making this a nice car and preserve it. The goalposts have moved substantially since I started. I have to limit some areas for now but I can finish these sometime in the future.
Jim, their isn't any structure wood in this car. I believe Fisher body dropped most of the wooden structures in the late 30's. I was surprised when you said the 40' Caddy had it.
Jim, their isn't any structure wood in this car. I believe Fisher body dropped most of the wooden structures in the late 30's. I was surprised when you said the 40' Caddy had it.
Put the front suspension back together with new springs, rubbers, bushings, and relined brake shoes. I always use new or rebushed wheel cylinders and master cylinders when I build a car like this. New lines are bent and in place. I had to dig out my Caswell cad plate kit and replate the upper shock bolts and lower control arm bolts, anything related to the front suspension. This is where the frame/front end sits right now. Everything refinished except the rear axle.
I could've bought a mustang II front end for what I have into it.
But.... I chuckle when guys do that. Put a front end designed for a 3000 lb car on a 5000 lb car. Tiny little disc brakes look so nice poking through 15" cragars. These big old drums will put you through the windshield pretty quick.
I could've bought a mustang II front end for what I have into it.
But.... I chuckle when guys do that. Put a front end designed for a 3000 lb car on a 5000 lb car. Tiny little disc brakes look so nice poking through 15" cragars. These big old drums will put you through the windshield pretty quick.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Man you are going gangbusters on this thing. I need some of that motivation. 
I have a 48' Buick Fastback that I tore apart 7+ years ago and I said this won't be that car. I need the room in the shop and this thing takes up a bunch. I'll also be eating a college kids diet soon so I can keep buying parts.
I picked up some parts from the dipper. Sheet metal is rusty on the backside. Under the paint it's pretty nice. If the back was cleaner I wouldn't just blasted the stuff.
I picked up some parts from the dipper. Sheet metal is rusty on the backside. Under the paint it's pretty nice. If the back was cleaner I wouldn't just blasted the stuff.
I wish I could do this in a week. This project started in the middle of September. I started getting up an hour early and work on it for 1 hour in the morning and then quit at 5 and work on it until I lose interest. Saturday and Sunday I work on it also. Normally I'm seven days a week on customer cars but I don't want this sitting around here so the weekends are mine.
The rear fenders were just rusty where the top strips were spot welded on. I had to replace these areas on both rear fenders. The crusty picture shows the scale on the back of the fenders. Thise fenders didn't have that nasty GM undercoat that caused a lot of Buicks to rot from the backside under the coating as it loosened. These fenders had a few dents and dings that I hammered and dollied.
The rear fenders were just rusty where the top strips were spot welded on. I had to replace these areas on both rear fenders. The crusty picture shows the scale on the back of the fenders. Thise fenders didn't have that nasty GM undercoat that caused a lot of Buicks to rot from the backside under the coating as it loosened. These fenders had a few dents and dings that I hammered and dollied.
Both fenders were repaired, then I washed them with baking soda and water a couple times. Threw them in the blast cabinet to put some anchor on them and clean up a little rust since I did them when it was really humid out. Once out of the blast cabinet I 80 grit da'd them, washed them once with Dawn and water, went over that with waterborne and the next morning I put 2 coats of epoxy on them. 2 days later I picked and blocked any low spots, applied filler and glaze over some areas and finished to 180. More waterborne and then the next day I sprayed 3 coats of epoxy. (1 morning, 1 lunch, 1 quiting time). I let them sit a week or so and 120/180 blocked them. More waterborne and then 2 more coats of epoxy. Let them sit a week and hit them with some 400 and sprayed 4 coats of SPI black SS on them. I finished the fender skirts and some front aprons at the same time. I was lucky to only have 1 round of 120 blocking as this stuff was nice and the filler did it's job.
I didn't photo this stuff much. In the booth the parts were sealed with a 20% reduction epoxy.
I didn't photo this stuff much. In the booth the parts were sealed with a 20% reduction epoxy.
No photos to show but I've pushed 5-10 booth loads of parts through the booth. All underhood brackets, splash aprons, rad supports, horns, This car a lot of parts to it. All were blasted except the 4 main splash aprons were dipped because of pitting and it was easier to pass the buck while they were doing the fenders. Most the parts were sprayed with 2 coats epoxy. Let sit a few days to a week and then 180 or 240 sand the parts and spray 2 more coats of epoxy and they are done. Some parts were skimmed with glaze to fill the pits. The really important parts that can be really studied are finished with 320, but it's splitting hairs on the quality being much better.
All of the parts are done except a couple.
My tip for being a little lazy on splash aprons that are never seen, but you want to be nice from under a hoist. Sand the 2 coats of epoxy with 180 to remove pits or imperfections and spray 2 more wet coats of epoxy. The next morning spray one med coat and the sheen is just right. If I spray 3 wet coats in one day the sheen is to much. The 180 parts need the 3rd coat to cover scratches where the 240 parts can get away with 2 coats.
The hardware shown is the first batch. The second batch is ready to be picked up and the third batch is prepared to be plated. Easily 20+ hours worth of fastener prep on this car. My wife blasted the first batch but she's dissapeared on the other two. I don't blame her as it sucks.
My tip for being a little lazy on splash aprons that are never seen, but you want to be nice from under a hoist. Sand the 2 coats of epoxy with 180 to remove pits or imperfections and spray 2 more wet coats of epoxy. The next morning spray one med coat and the sheen is just right. If I spray 3 wet coats in one day the sheen is to much. The 180 parts need the 3rd coat to cover scratches where the 240 parts can get away with 2 coats.
The hardware shown is the first batch. The second batch is ready to be picked up and the third batch is prepared to be plated. Easily 20+ hours worth of fastener prep on this car. My wife blasted the first batch but she's dissapeared on the other two. I don't blame her as it sucks.
Only modification I'll do is 12 volts. Headlights being the only reason. Their just isn't a way to get good 6volt headlights. I've tried it all on cars over the years and 12 volts is the instant cure to make good headlights. 6volt starting is never a problem but most yahoos have the system so screwed up with 12 volt cables and such that they never crank good. Since this car will be driven at night I'll convert it.
I had these two rear bumper aprons dippped with the fenders. That rear bumper assy was a hernia waiting to happen. They are ready for paint and waiting for a couple more parts before I finish them. The two door pontoons were blasted because they weren't rusty at all. The filler on these were to smooth out factory stamp distortions. They were in great shape and I wanted them nicer than factory since it's easy to look down the side of them. They have 1 more blocking round and then I'll paint them with the two rear bumper aprons.
I had these two rear bumper aprons dippped with the fenders. That rear bumper assy was a hernia waiting to happen. They are ready for paint and waiting for a couple more parts before I finish them. The two door pontoons were blasted because they weren't rusty at all. The filler on these were to smooth out factory stamp distortions. They were in great shape and I wanted them nicer than factory since it's easy to look down the side of them. They have 1 more blocking round and then I'll paint them with the two rear bumper aprons.
EddieF
Top Banana
Love those. Great job.
Headlights- i have many small adjustable boards that regulate dc higher to lower, bet there's adjustable 6 to 12.
Warm white leds also come in many voltages using fraction of watts. They need heatsinks though.
Wonder if you can cut back out of spare headlamp for leds.
Headlights- i have many small adjustable boards that regulate dc higher to lower, bet there's adjustable 6 to 12.
Warm white leds also come in many voltages using fraction of watts. They need heatsinks though.
Wonder if you can cut back out of spare headlamp for leds.
5
5wndwcpe
My '37 Imperial had a 6v, positive ground (made you think before hooking up jumper cables) and I always regarded the headlights as beacons for oncoming drivers with which to see you. They hardly appeared to accomplish much else.
Eddie, I've used those 6volt up to 12volts boards for radios/gps plugs, but they don't have enough amps to run headlights. Basically 6volts can be upgraded by replacing the sealed beams with halogen setups. They are little brighter but the generator doesn't make enough chargine amps to utilize them. Adding a headlight relay usually helps the most since all the 6volt current has to go through the old contacts in the switch. They make a 6volt alternator that charges much better but looks like total crap under the hood and I refuse to use them. A guy also puts alternator guts into a generator case. I've used them with good luck for 12 volt 50's cars but not in a 6volt. Just easier to switch the car over at that point and owner can charge cell phones, have good headlights, and a must if using an A/C setup.
I taped all the holes shut in the trunk lid with duct tape and blasted it in the cabinet. Air gunned the dust off and used waterborne and sontara wipes until it was clean. 2 coats epoxy and let it sit a couple days. Retaped all the holes shut and poured 25 oz. of epoxy into the lid and sloshed it around until coated and poured out the little bit that came out. I wiped most of it with a skim of filler then glaze and finished with 180. It sits now with 2 more coats epoxy. Planning on painting it with the door pontoons and rear bumper aprons.
Starting to get caught up where the car sits right now. Sorry about the pictures and text all over the place. I type the text and then upload pictures, hit post reply, and it turns out random. Not really sure what I would do different since I don't know that much about this stuff.
I taped all the holes shut in the trunk lid with duct tape and blasted it in the cabinet. Air gunned the dust off and used waterborne and sontara wipes until it was clean. 2 coats epoxy and let it sit a couple days. Retaped all the holes shut and poured 25 oz. of epoxy into the lid and sloshed it around until coated and poured out the little bit that came out. I wiped most of it with a skim of filler then glaze and finished with 180. It sits now with 2 more coats epoxy. Planning on painting it with the door pontoons and rear bumper aprons.
Starting to get caught up where the car sits right now. Sorry about the pictures and text all over the place. I type the text and then upload pictures, hit post reply, and it turns out random. Not really sure what I would do different since I don't know that much about this stuff.
I haven't had much time to work on this throughout the holidays and the first half of the month. I hate it when customer obligations trump my personal projects.
I do have the trunk lid, door pontoons, and rear bumper aprons ready for final paint. Just waiting for an open paint booth. 4 cars are in my 4 stall shop and I don't like more than 2.
I have two mechanical jobs that normally I do on my unheated side but it's been to cold for me to work on them over there. Funny little thing is this Cadillac took care of my fund to spray foam my 32 by 48' and put up the steel liner for a finished work space. I just use it for storage and summer work now. Maybe in the fall I will be able to finish the project.
Rear trunk area had some rot on the back. I made and installed the two pieces on the back of the body. It rotted behind the seal and thought about being lazy and just put a new seal over the rot. I would never do it for a customer so I better not half/azz my own project. I'm either going to just brush epoxy in the trunk or spray if I can ever get the booth back. I have trunk liner material on order to finish the trunk correctly.
I'm starting to work on the rear wheel openings. I haven't gotten very far. (Could someone explain to me why I typed the text, inserted pics, and they cause the text to go randon on the post?)
I do have the trunk lid, door pontoons, and rear bumper aprons ready for final paint. Just waiting for an open paint booth. 4 cars are in my 4 stall shop and I don't like more than 2.
Rear trunk area had some rot on the back. I made and installed the two pieces on the back of the body. It rotted behind the seal and thought about being lazy and just put a new seal over the rot. I would never do it for a customer so I better not half/azz my own project. I'm either going to just brush epoxy in the trunk or spray if I can ever get the booth back. I have trunk liner material on order to finish the trunk correctly.
I'm starting to work on the rear wheel openings. I haven't gotten very far. (Could someone explain to me why I typed the text, inserted pics, and they cause the text to go randon on the post?)