4000 Universal Clear Assistance

Sometimes eliminating runs and peel is not just a matter of adjustment, but technique. It's almost a chicken-egg problem, gun has to be set to match technique, but technique also has to match the gun, and be consistent over the surface. It sounds to me like your gun is not far off from a setting that could produce excellent results, all that you need is practice being consistent at riding in that area between too dry and too wet. It took me literally hundreds of hours of spray time before I could get finishes that could consistently leave the shop without buffing ( I mean daily driver type jobs).
 
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i see nothing wrong with it. nice job. skip the 1000-1200 grit and start with 1500. should polish out very nice.
 
Thanks everyone. I think you are right in all your points. I think working back to my first coat adjustments would be probably the way to go and what I will try, maybe a point higher on air, but not 4 like I did while I was spraying. Probably the key culprit is being consistent, myself causing most of the issues, vs the gun. Thinking back on it most of my problems came from transitioning, say transitioning from the roof to the sail panel, its not really a sail panel being a truck but that rear door post. I would paint across the rear of the roof above the rear window side to side, and then hit the door post up and down. At the corner I run into issues because I have too much material in the overlaps. I ran into the same problem when I was practicing on my fenders the night before I did my cab, at the wheel well opening along the top edge I would be running straight across the fender length wise and get the top of the wheel opening with half my fan, then come back and spray the curve of the opening and end up with too much material on the top of the opening and have a run.

Ill start with the 1500 and work up from there on most of it. Shine I read over your steps in the compounding thread, thanks for sharing. I have a dewalt rotary, but I think last time I used it I was around 1000-1200 rpm on it. I assume on the flex that step 2 is probably around the same.
 
Thought I would post my next question here instead of a new thread. I'm buffing the outside of my cab, about done with it. Anyhow I ran into something odd I was curious on. I have what I think are pin holes related to a run, I'm not sure though. I had a rather large run in this area so I'm assuming it is related. The run was sanded on the high spots with 600 until almost flat, then 800 till flat, then 1000 and so on to buflex green.

I'm figuring on probably having to live with it unless someone has another suggestion.

Defect in question is in the garage door window reflection.

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Can you take a toothpick and dap clearcoat in the pin holes - let it dry and block them flat ? Has worked for me in the past
 
That might be worth a shot.

The thing that gets me with this spot is that it just showed today. I had it polished once but had some left over scratches that wouldn't buff out. I hit it with the green buflex by hand, buffed it a couple times and then had this. I'm guessing that Im down into some trapped air from the run or something else related to that run.

Part of me wants to hit it with some more light paper, but the other part says to quit while I'm ahead. Maybe I dab them with a toothpick and then sand.
 
I ended up using a little brush and putting a thin coat over the area. There were too many pin holes to try and get them all with a tooth pick. It worked great. If you really look you can pick up on a few but overall it is a lot better and Im really happy with how it turned out.

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After that sat for a couple days I buffed it. It was a pretty nice day today so I rolled it outside to get it in the sun for the first time since it was painted and buffed. I was blown away, I never thought I could pull off something this nice.

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the pits you had could be from moisture. i had that same problem a few times especially if using activator that has been opened before. if it is from moisture, you have to determine if its from compressor or activator. any time you open activator and dont use it all, shoot a little inert gas i.e. argon in the can before closing it up. that is a really good job you have done congrats
 
Thanks for the compliments. Color is Grabber Blue off of the 10 and newer Mustang. Base brand was Wanda, with SPI black epoxy, 2k regular build, gray epoxy as a sealer, and Universal clear

In my particular case a run was the cause of the pin holes, I had a massive run/sag in that area.
 
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