2k sealer vs epoxy sealer

Many different ways to get the same results. Just choose the method you like and run with it!

Dont try to "wet" out the sealer. That's where you are going to have problems. Just put a light "medium" wet coat on.

With any solid base color you dont have to be too concerned with the texture of the sealer or base. You're going to be clearing it. i mean you dont want it to feel like sand paper, just use your best judgement.
 
Any dust nibs that you encounter can be sanded out with 1000 grit as long as you are in the window of the sealer. You can then base right over that. Reduced epoxy as sealer is easier to spray than unreduced. You are simply spraying a medium coat like OJ said and that's it. 50-75% overlap. Moving quickly. You are not trying to get full coverage. If you are concerned about coverage, spray one medium coat wait 30 minutes then spray another.
 
Okay I understand the Pro's for using epoxy as a sealer from the replies here. Makes perfect sense. The reason for my question is because I read another thread concerning sealer where JimC mention that using 2k sealer would be the better choice for the beginner painter due to it being easier to fix a spraying mistake when used as a sealer.

So how does one fix a mistake when spraying 2k sealer, and how does one fix a mistake spraying epoxy as a sealer?
Always treat 2k sealer and epoxy used as a sealer and correct with 1500 wet like you would a base coat.
 
You can wet sand within an hour or two of spraying to fix blemishes, use the 710 instead of water to 'wet' to cut the wait.

That being said, I don't reduce epoxy when using it as a sealer. I spray it full strength, wet sand 600 to remove all blemishes, peel, nibs, and maybe any pigment separation, and then base. It gives me a perfectly smooth and blemish-free substrate to start on.
I sprayed 3 coats of white epoxy this morning. Really 2 1/2 as the first was very light to limit cratering. After that light coat, I hosed it on.

I'd like to sand a few spots, mainly where it's a little too thick, then put on some filler and re-prime tonight. But right now 4 hours after spraying it seems a little soft to sand. How can I tell when it's ok to hit with paper. I have the garage up to mid 80s to help it along.
 
I couldn't imagine sanding epoxy in 4 hours. Maybe if it was held at 120° plus the whole time. Overnight is best, and even then temps have to be over 70°, and it will still be soft.
 
I sprayed 3 coats of white epoxy this morning. Really 2 1/2 as the first was very light to limit cratering. After that light coat, I hosed it on.

I'd like to sand a few spots, mainly where it's a little too thick, then put on some filler and re-prime tonight. But right now 4 hours after spraying it seems a little soft to sand. How can I tell when it's ok to hit with paper. I have the garage up to mid 80s to help it along.
4 hrs you’re good to go. I’ve wet sanded craters using 710 2 hr after spraying.

And that direction was given to me by Barry. It will feel soft but sands just fine.
 
I couldn't imagine sanding epoxy in 4 hours. Maybe if it was held at 120° plus the whole time. Overnight is best, and even then temps have to be over 70°, and it will still be soft.
Try it, works great. I’ve sanded after 2.5 hr before.
 
LOL
It took a year or just short of curing it at 4 inches thick, not that it's done on a car, but more for my knowledge, as I feel that is important for me to know.
I've got about a 4" thick piece of SPI black epoxy that I forgot about in a mixing cup for a month or so. Was planning to use it the next day and forgot about it. Anyways, when I found it I pulled it out of the cup, not only did it pull out clean it took the thin residue above it in the cup out as one piece! The amazing thing is the thin epoxy stuck to the side is completely flexible and the large piece was one solid piece. No cracking, very little shrinking, (everything shrinks or else it wouldn't be sprayable) Would make a great hockey puck.:) If I was a kid that's what I would have used it for. Compare that to 2K urethane primer (in general) that sits in a cup. There is a lot of shrinkage, looks like parched earth, crumbles and no way is it flexible. I feel that using epoxy only on a job has to increase the chip resistance by 10X probably more. Really is a miracle product IMO.
 
I am thinking of using all epoxy since I have all new sheet metal. Would it be wise to not use high build in this situation? I have a gallon if Rage Ultra also.
 
I am thinking of using all epoxy since I have all new sheet metal. Would it be wise to not use high build in this situation? I have a gallon if Rage Ultra also.
Here is my "all new (reproduction) sheet metal."
20220809_164652.jpg


I think the All Epoxy decision depends on how much work, and leveling is needed.

My next project is a C3 Corvette which just needs blocking and I'm going to go all Epoxy on that one.
 

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