2015 Corvette Bumper Cover Repair Process Help Needed.

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TWO

Hello Folks! I recently had a mishap happen to while pumping gas. A young lady at the pump next to me decided to back up without looking behind her and proceeded to back into me. I have a deep scuff that I am repairing. I have the bumper cover off. I sanded down the imperfection and used a little SEM Bumper Bite to straighten the small area of only about 2 inch diameter. My question is what are my next steps to ensure a long lasting repair. In the past I would spray a little SPI epoxy over the repair area, let it dry, blend the basecoat, then re-clear the entire bumper cover. Never had a problem before but am I missing anything? Any recommendations? Thanks!
 
You have it right!
Two things of course the epoxy like you said but add 1-oz of any clear-coat activator to a mixed quart of base and use the universal.
Does this counting the epoxy count as three things or just two? LOL
 
crash- can proper sanding of bare plastic w/o adpro hold just as good?
I did this on caddy bumper fillers with no issues as of almost 2yrs and still holding. Can squeeze parts w/o issues..so far.
 
crash- can proper sanding of bare plastic w/o adpro hold just as good?
I did this on caddy bumper fillers with no issues as of almost 2yrs and still holding. Can squeeze parts w/o issues..so far.

The only bumper I ever had to redo was a Jeep I forgot the adhesion promoter on.
I did sand it real good first, and applied epoxy on it afterwards. Then I realized I forgot the
adhesion promoter. I took some duck tape and tested the epoxy, I couldn't pull any off (the epoxy test)
so I thought it would probably be ok.
It wasn't, a little more than 2 yrs later it started peeling like crazy,
I repainted it for free and swore I would never trust it again without the adhesion promoter.
That stuff does make a difference, even on a well sanded surface.
 
Thanks jc..i think lol. Time will tell.
In my case, parts are from 1993 so maybe different or well aged. I based right to plastic gulp.
 
Adpro only needed on unprimed bumpers correct?

YES! And TPO, TEO, PP and PE plastics.
The caddy fillers were urethane and did not need it, last c6 I had did not need adpro either.
BUT mine was year older so maybe changed.
 
The 2015 vette bumper is TEO, fitting one to the back of my el camino.
The only other raw plastic prep option here is flame treating. By flame treating I don't mean burning the plastic with a torch. You just barely run the flame of a propane torch over the surface,barely even heating the surface, which removes the surface oils but doesn't dry out the whole depth. Teo is some oily crap to work with.
First heard of it as instructions for evercoat filler, but I've never tried it on a spot repair.
Jim C here has done it for years on plastics in general, says it has about same effect as ad pro.
I've done both procedures back to back on totally stripped areas.
Did an experimental stress test before spraying spi epoxy on sanded TEO and embedding a fiberglass matt strip hanging out as a pull handle. Couple weeks later it was handling a decent pull but eventually the epoxy let loose of the TEO. Later realized I forgot to do either prep procedure besides sanding.
Yea it failed my test, but this was way more extreme of a test than duct tape. It did give a fair fight.
With actual TEO split repair or fabrication as I've done, hot air plastic welding with ribbons or thinned out donor material is the best, far superior to any glues. With the backside being a little thicker, it can be as strong or stronger than the surrounding thin ass plastic they use now.
The 2009 manufactured Camaro bumpers I first fooled with were thicker than the 2016 Camaro front & 2016 vette rear I now have.
Haven't done any further experimenting with TEO fabrication. It's so difficult to work with on a fabrication level that on my 2016 updating Camaro bumper to el camino body project I did much more sheetmetal changing to avoid the plastic work. Same for rear.
Just a little more in depth info.......
 
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