1973 Corvette , its time for Strip and paint

I put the 2K primer on the shelf, wont be needing it for a while,have a day job, Starting 6 12 hours days in a row
 
Any 'left over',previous Crap will come back to haunt you unless you send It out the door with no regards or cares.
'Glass of any sort has to be delt with back down to It,be it smc or strand.
Epoxy is King,First imo and you can stick about anything over It.
SPI's epoxy is an amazing product which will allow you to go from 80 to whatever you desire to the bc/cc or ss for the finish line.
Fact is,I have No 2K 'primer' and I'll leave it at that.Once you realize the benefit of using 1,base primer and only having to 'deal' with It,your Life is quite enjoyable.
Personally, I 'like 150 after 80. Just sayin.
 
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Back at it again, blocked with 150 and ready for some 2k, very,very little lift if any, cant tell if its just the rough sand job but the Epox sands nice
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Shot the 2k, 3 coats and back to blocking with 220
220, 320 400 grit ?

What should the final sand be done with ? Wet or dry ?
I hear 600, will that be rough enough for GOOD PAINT ADDHEASION ?
Thanks for all the help guys

primed 2x vette.jpg
 
No wrong way wet or dry. I use 400 dry myself on a non metallic job. I was taught with 320 for final and it works fine also and is faster than heck, but I see more clear dye back with 320 than 400 and that is why I use 400.
 
We use 320 until texture and any remaining imperfections are eliminated, then re-guide coat and refine the 320 with 600.
 
shot the Base Monday , outside temp was 35, Garage temp was 60 -75 ,was a little worried when I started the fan the temp would drop to much for the paint,
Going to shoot the Clear in the morning, 4 coats
Thinking about wet sanding the clear with 600 ,then spaying more over it in a week

Is there a big improvement in doing that ?
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I sprayed medium red, then followed up the next day with 6 coats of clear over ~3.5 hrs.. I finished wet sanding with 600 using lexan blocks over the weekend and now am about to buff. I would just lay down 5-6 coats of clear back to back in one day and be done with it. Gives you plenty of material to work with if starting with 600.

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No wrong way wet or dry. I use 400 dry myself on a non metallic job. I was taught with 320 for final and it works fine also and is faster than heck, but I see more clear dye back with 320 than 400 and that is why I use 400.
What paper are using for dry sanding 400? I am having trouble with sanding epoxy with 320. Thanks
 
thanks for the help guys, Finial 4 coats of clear
Cut and buff time ,waiting 48 hours, keeping Garage at 64 degrees
done vette.jpg
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Wow Great job ! I also love this body era. If I understand you will cut and buff after 48 Hrs ? Be nice to roll outside in the sunlight for a few days before wet sanding..............just my 2 cents
 
Wow Great job ! I also love this body era. If I understand you will cut and buff after 48 Hrs ? Be nice to roll outside in the sunlight for a few days before wet sanding..............just my 2 cents

Agree, I was not able to roll mine outside but now with more experience putting parts out in the UV it is clear how much faster it cures.
 
Wow Great job ! I also love this body era. If I understand you will cut and buff after 48 Hrs ? Be nice to roll outside in the sunlight for a few days before wet sanding..............just my 2 cents
I'm in Buffalo NY, pushing it outside will only slow down the drying posses, keeping garage at 65 for the last 2 nights , will start with T-Tops and see how they come out
Also found a few runs, some small hand sanding time , with 8 coats of clear on should have lots of room till i hit the base
 
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