'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
No, you are not too late. I will indeed need to do this as I have to replace the retaining studs and molding clips.
1968 Plymouth GTX
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'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
I have the Factory Service Manual so I will check that out. Thanks.If you have access to the shop manual it might give some dimensions for blocks to set the window in, and check the fit.
Such as this example.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Actually I was able to get everything done from above. After drilling out the visible spot welds, I used a cut off disc along the end seams and the back window edge being careful not to hit the metal I wanted to keep.
Once the panel was removed, I used a sharpened air chisel to separate the left over panel edges from the body. Then ran a grinding disc over the now visible welds to flatten them.
Once the panel was removed, I used a sharpened air chisel to separate the left over panel edges from the body. Then ran a grinding disc over the now visible welds to flatten them.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
After some measuring I found one of the bottom tabs that help align and hold things in place was 1/8" too long. Trimmed it to the correct length and then test fit the panel again.
Much closer now so I'll wait until the new window corners are in before messing doing any more adjusting.
Speaking of the lower window corners, the brazing was extensive and fearing trouble MIG welding in those areas, I thought it best to get rid of it. This left me with some serious patching to do as can be see in the previous picture.
Also notice how the patch has a more rounded edge than the original quarter panel. The other thing is the height of the patch in the lowest rounded portion sits an 1/8" below the surrounding metal.
Did I mention how much fun this is turning into?
Much closer now so I'll wait until the new window corners are in before messing doing any more adjusting.
Speaking of the lower window corners, the brazing was extensive and fearing trouble MIG welding in those areas, I thought it best to get rid of it. This left me with some serious patching to do as can be see in the previous picture.
Also notice how the patch has a more rounded edge than the original quarter panel. The other thing is the height of the patch in the lowest rounded portion sits an 1/8" below the surrounding metal.
Did I mention how much fun this is turning into?
crashtech
Combo Man & Mod
[rant] I have tried to explain to people, for example, that if they made a perfect copy OE factory rocker for 67-72 Chevy pickups, it would be worth at least 400 bucks, even though you can buy crappy knockoffs all day for $20. Same goes for just about every part they sell for our old iron, it's all overseas and 99% of it belongs in the recycling bin. But, most people just look at me like I have 3 heads because they saw how easy it was on TV. [/rant]
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Well after a repeated struggle to get these inside corners to fit, I think I discovered the problem.
In this picture you can see the height difference even after I added some 18 ga. metal to help raise the patch up.
I couldn't understand how all the other parts I have purchased and installed from AMD fit and these didn't. So I did a search and saw some photos which turned the light on.
It turns out that I ordered the "inside" corners which I now believe are there to support the "outside" corners that I did not order.
Today I sent an email to AMD to try and get some questions answered and hopefully will get a reply tomorrow, that is unless they celebrate Juneteenth
.
In the meantime I will media blast the rust out of there and get everything coated in epoxy.
In this picture you can see the height difference even after I added some 18 ga. metal to help raise the patch up.
I couldn't understand how all the other parts I have purchased and installed from AMD fit and these didn't. So I did a search and saw some photos which turned the light on.
It turns out that I ordered the "inside" corners which I now believe are there to support the "outside" corners that I did not order.
Today I sent an email to AMD to try and get some questions answered and hopefully will get a reply tomorrow, that is unless they celebrate Juneteenth
.In the meantime I will media blast the rust out of there and get everything coated in epoxy.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
AMD got back to me this morning. My assumption was right, there are inner and outer patches that work together to provide complete replacement of the rusted out corners.
I will order the outer corners today.
By the way, they did say I could return the inner corners if I wanted to. However, since I had to remove so much brazing and rusted through metal, I need to install them anyway.
I will order the outer corners today.
By the way, they did say I could return the inner corners if I wanted to. However, since I had to remove so much brazing and rusted through metal, I need to install them anyway.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Prepped and sprayed epoxy on the roof skin, drip rail welds and rear deck underside and supports.
Tried the DeKups for the first time today. It was great for spraying the underside of the package tray and supports.
It is me or does it seem to require a bit more pressure when using them?
Tried the DeKups for the first time today. It was great for spraying the underside of the package tray and supports.
It is me or does it seem to require a bit more pressure when using them?
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
While waiting for my compressor parts to get here, I decided to work for a better fit on the rear deck panel.
From the start it was that right front corner that has been giving me fits. Today I discovered why.
This is the left front corner with a straight edge up against the end.
Here's the right front corner:
No recess cut at all.
I will get the tin snips out and duplicate the cut away. This should alleviate the pressure and let the panel fall into place.
From the start it was that right front corner that has been giving me fits. Today I discovered why.
This is the left front corner with a straight edge up against the end.
Here's the right front corner:
No recess cut at all.
I will get the tin snips out and duplicate the cut away. This should alleviate the pressure and let the panel fall into place.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Yes, that is very true.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Well it's been a battle with the lower window corners.
First, I thought I needed the inner and outer corner patches so I installed the inner patches only to have to remove them.
It turns out that the inner corners are just the inner portion of the outer corner patches as can be seen here:
I decided to attack the left lower corner first (sorry, no rounded corners):
The patch has multiple angles and bevels to it and need to be shaped to provide a finished area to match the rear deck panel.
I have a gas MIG welder and this thinner metal always gives me fits. Using a .023" wire I can get some tacks near perfect while others have pits in them.
I work slowly and yet can never seem to get a perfect finished weld. No problems with the thicker gauge metals but this stuff?
Of course I forgot to take the picture before covering the weld in paint for the night. However you can see the tiny little holes in the welded area.
My plan is to strip the paint back off and try to fill those spots with weld. The problem will be blowing through the thin metal.
Any suggestions on how to improve my results would be appreciated.
First, I thought I needed the inner and outer corner patches so I installed the inner patches only to have to remove them.
It turns out that the inner corners are just the inner portion of the outer corner patches as can be seen here:
I decided to attack the left lower corner first (sorry, no rounded corners):
The patch has multiple angles and bevels to it and need to be shaped to provide a finished area to match the rear deck panel.
I have a gas MIG welder and this thinner metal always gives me fits. Using a .023" wire I can get some tacks near perfect while others have pits in them.
I work slowly and yet can never seem to get a perfect finished weld. No problems with the thicker gauge metals but this stuff?
Of course I forgot to take the picture before covering the weld in paint for the night. However you can see the tiny little holes in the welded area.
My plan is to strip the paint back off and try to fill those spots with weld. The problem will be blowing through the thin metal.
Any suggestions on how to improve my results would be appreciated.
1A Rock
Promoted Users
can you get any kind of backer in that area?
MJM
Promoted Users
There is a Youtube video where MP&C made a guest appearance on another YouTube channel. A man was trying to teach his son how to weld floor pans. After MP&C reset the polarity on the welder, lol, he went into detailed information on how to set a welder up for stitch welds.
The most important key note I picked up was, a lot of people set there amps and wire speed up when their material has a backer, or the material is on a metal work bench. If you're welding on an area where you can't use a backer, you need to set the welder up for open air welding.
As was shown in the video, I butt two pieces of sheet metal in a vice and make vertical spot welds in the open air. This is how I set my amps and wire speed. I'm now able to lay down a flat weld 1/16" or less in height without burning holes in the sheet metal. Another important tip for consistency is how far away you are from the work piece. The closer you are makes a cooler weld, farther away produces a hotter weld.
I have that video saved on my home computer. I'll post it tonight if anyone is interested.
The most important key note I picked up was, a lot of people set there amps and wire speed up when their material has a backer, or the material is on a metal work bench. If you're welding on an area where you can't use a backer, you need to set the welder up for open air welding.
As was shown in the video, I butt two pieces of sheet metal in a vice and make vertical spot welds in the open air. This is how I set my amps and wire speed. I'm now able to lay down a flat weld 1/16" or less in height without burning holes in the sheet metal. Another important tip for consistency is how far away you are from the work piece. The closer you are makes a cooler weld, farther away produces a hotter weld.
I have that video saved on my home computer. I'll post it tonight if anyone is interested.
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