JimKueneman
Mopar Nut
Thanks Don, there was not, it was clean metal both side when I welded it. The photo is a bit deceiving. The templates were cheap, easy and dang effective...
1966 Valiant for the Other Daughter....
- Thread starter JimKueneman
- Start date
Thanks Don, there was not, it was clean metal both side when I welded it. The photo is a bit deceiving. The templates were cheap, easy and dang effective...
JimKueneman
Mopar Nut
There is a lot of work to be done before that gets welded in which includes a lot of epoxy so good suggestion.
JimKueneman
Mopar Nut
3 cars scraping undercoating with a heat gun and scraper... why did I do that.... New tool.... needle scaler.... exactly 15 minutes and I have half the car done.... sigh... live and learn...
cmfisher4
Promoted Users
Hi, Jim. We used those needle guns on the submarine to scrape paint and they worked great. If the paint was in bad shape you could really get stuff flying all over the place...kind of fun, but your hands felt it the next day.
I would have been concern with the thin body sheet metal that you'd get little pock marks. I guess that's not the case? Do you need to control your air pressure to prevent that?
I've got some factory undercoating on the TR4 that will need to come off and I'd rather work smarter, not harder. of course.
Thanks,
Chris
I would have been concern with the thin body sheet metal that you'd get little pock marks. I guess that's not the case? Do you need to control your air pressure to prevent that?
I've got some factory undercoating on the TR4 that will need to come off and I'd rather work smarter, not harder. of course.
Thanks,
Chris
JimKueneman
Mopar Nut
I have not noticed any damage to the metal but I am not trying to strip it to bare metal. Just using it at 45 degrees to vibrate the the undercoating loose. Once off I stop. The rest of the way will be with abrasive cookie and media blasting. I would not use it on the back side of an external panel just in case. If the inner fenders and floor have a few little dimples I am not worried about that.
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JimKueneman
Mopar Nut
Will be welding parts back ON this weekend!!!!!!
JimKueneman
Mopar Nut
Nope I can't wait.... The trunk pan is not really for a '63-'66 so it needs to be modified.... What a difference getting those wheel lip profiles back... Nice putting back many of the same parts... just line up the drilled out spot welds and weld away!
JimKueneman
Mopar Nut
Morning on the Valiant till it got too hot outside. Working on the tail panel... I have 3 an I can make one good one out of the 3. The bottom half of the original was only mangled from the collision damage so I cut it off on the horizontal lip where the bumper is and massaged the crumpled corner back into shape. Used the original trunk floor as a template. Notice the replacement floor does not have the pre '67 lip so I will be cutting the curl out of the original and spot welding it along the edge to weld to the tail piece. The benefit of using the originals is I can align it _exactly_ where it originally was using the drill outs as guides. This is useful when you have to realign the rear. Notice the rear rails dropped about 3/8" and it is easy to tell because of the alignment of the original parts. I can jack it back up to be aligned. That is why I did _not_ cut both quarters out at the same time. I can use the one original as my guide to get the first and trunk back in alignment. Trunk extensions all welded in and the trunk pan fits perfectly after a bit of reworking in the front corners as the early A's are a bit different there.
JimKueneman
Mopar Nut
Extension and tail piece all welded in. Cleaned the trunk and blasted the welded areas so I could shoot the remaining Southern Polyurethane Epoxy Primer. Need to run to town tomorrow to get some filler to form the wheel well you can see in the trunk where I patched in lip piece to get the original quarter wheel lip. Tomorrow is "install the trunk floor day"! It looks like maybe the summer rains are starting to form... we need rain so bad I am praying for a wet monsoon season. The last picture you can see how the LH side is a bit lower than the right. If you mock up the new quarter panel the RH side does NOT need to be jacked up 3/8" and this shows that fact clearly.
JimKueneman
Mopar Nut
I passed on this car the first time we saw it on the side of the road with a For Sale sign... then the daughter was drawn to it when searching Facebook Marketplace without really realizing it was the same car... if not for her clear connection with this thing I would NOT be doing this
JimKueneman
Mopar Nut
MJM
Promoted Users
Interesting, good information. Thanks.
MJM
Promoted Users
Thank you for the video. I knew there was a reason I have a drawer full of dull random drill bit. Will work perfect for this application.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
I use an end mill similar to this:
Of course I had some left over from my days working in a machine shop.
Of course I had some left over from my days working in a machine shop.
JimKueneman
Mopar Nut
Needed to cut and prep the rear edge of the original trunk floor since the floor was really for '67 and up. Again being able to use the original weld plugs makes sure we are in original alignment.... Trunk prepped for welding. Need to go to town to pick up a few things for the Dart to fix the transmission leak before the trip while the epoxy drys on the salvaged and blasted lip. Should be welding that in later and then can mark and drill the spot welds for along the rear of the trunk pan to weld to this rear lip.
