1941 chrysler coupe build

No choice but to use filler in there. It's welded from inside. The lumps outside are penetration nuggets coming thru, so super solid. Cannot weld the outside, the quarte panel will warp to heck. A friend mentioned UPOL fiberglass filler which can span gaps. No real gap though, solid connection, so should be fine. Some minor sculpting on the inside corner.


UPOL



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Now there's two solid pieces of information. I find it very interesting you welded it from the backside. I've often thought about doing that on body panel patches where I have good access to the backside because, as you've already stated, when it provides good penetration with a small weld nugget on the viewing side of the panel. Obviously it would also make for a quicker weld dress. Your reply has opened up another way of welding a panel, thank you.
 
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I added a bend going upwards to the new roll pan. It needs to be a channel like this original chunk of mess. I cannot do it in one piece, never have tried before, so piece it all together as per my knowledge level.


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After welding, shape shifters again. Torch out yet again for corrective actions. There will be a bunch more slicing and welding for gap tuning later.




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A keen eye would have noticed the corner pieces of U channels, which after 28 hours for two, still were incorrectly shaped as I found out later.

I almost left both layers of metal cut at the same place, but any water running down the gutter would have gotten behing and gone straight into the new trunk extension. So, I carefully cut each layer back to add the new bits in.

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If you watched the video, you'd see the lid doesn't pop too high.
I looked for poppers on line, but none could tell the weight or strength of the springs, so back to some Jethro ciphering and home made poppers.

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Sitting on the scale which I used to calculate how far to compress the spring.


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Needed a longer striker. Good thing I installed that 1/4" steel plate on the inside of the trunk inner skin way back.



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I had the boys in the shop bend me up a tray for the license plate. Mocked up to do some geometry.

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Found some thin LED's for license plate lights.


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If you watched the video, you'd see the lid doesn't pop too high.
I looked for poppers on line, but none could tell the weight or strength of the springs, so back to some Jethro ciphering and home made poppers.

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Sitting on the scale which I used to calculate how far to compress the spring.


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Needed a longer striker. Good thing I installed that 1/4" steel plate on the inside of the trunk inner skin way back.



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Awesome! Nice gazintas. :)

Don
 
Ha, Gazintas.........forgot about them.

I took the tail pan pieces to work and spot welded them together and added a stiffener piece to the bottom edge.



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I added a couple of bars to support the trunk latch. Handy to screw my cable pulley onto as well.


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11 ga reinforcing plate added at the latch.


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Had to extend each corner piece about 5/16".


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I had to beat the corners into sbmission as they were too wide, then extend them back with yet another strip welded on and then the dreaded corner weld as I tried a folded piece, but the amount od screw up was too great.



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Looks OK but one corner doesn't match the shape of the deck lid. Gapping time will need to address this.



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I made up a couple of taillight "pods"/boxes. I used a jig to locate them and try to keep them level and the face of each parallel with the other.




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I cut holes larger than the pods and screwed plates about 1-1/2" larger than the pods over the holes. I then brought them up to the plates and slowly cut out the holes to avoid too much gap as I needed to weld them from the outside with filler rod.




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Taking the plates off the car made for easy planishing of an inside corner weld.
Basically, the weld shrunk the metal inboard. I just put it thru the shrinker and shrunk the outside edge to make it evenly shrunk everywhere.

Warpage:


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