1941 chrysler coupe build

I'm looking at the awesome work you do and laughing. Not laughing at you, laughing at myself thinking what I'm doing is the cats meow, lol. I've already thanked MPC for making me strive to do better, and now I'm thanking you. You are one hell of a metal fabricator. That door spring deal you did was well executed. There are so many talented craftsman on this site, and whether you know it or not, your pushing guys like myself, and I'm sure others, to dive in and "try". Sure mistake are going to happen from a wannabe painter / bodyman / fabricator but , this is how one learns.

I say this out of complete respect for you and your talents. Thanks for sharing !!!
 
Fender needed a patch along the rear bottom edge.


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Something just wasn't right with this fender. I tried some torch shrinking but that got me nowhere.


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Get some steel out and start tapping away again.

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Tip the edge by hand.

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A 3/8" rod shaped to panel. Came in handy for clamping in place to weld, and then used as a dolly to finish rolling over the edge.

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Always scary lopping of big chunks of car.

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I was having a hard time getting the lower edge to the correct shape so I grabbed another chunk of 3/8 round bar and mocked up the bottom edge of the tail pan in an effort to lock the fenders from flopping all over.

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The deck lid weighs approximately 43 LBS. When I had the body stripped, the knuckleheads there didn't tell me what would happen to the springs. The acid took away a lot of the temper and the lid would not stay up. Since I was now working with my fingers in the guillotine so to speak, I figured broom sticks might not be the best thing to use.


Scale under the deck lid in the down position. About 23 LBS. So, just about half. This info helped select gas shocks using the weight and the length? (front to back size) of the lid using the sizing info on the website. Pretty accurate. It goes up just a wee bit fast at the end when fully opened.


The last foot, the lid just drops still, so I am making up some spring loaded "poppers". They will kick the lid up when I pull the release inside the car. Hopefully slow down the lid enough to not squish fingers if it's dropped from that foot height where the shocks are ineffective.

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After that brief intermission, a couple of small square patches added to get to where the tail pan would begin.


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I had the young lad bring the wheel to my home finally as I wanted to get a smooth tail panel wheeled up.
I'm no expert so there are a lot of ripples, but much better than hand tapping.

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The home made tool is just two scrap bars with a washer a bit thicker than the panel.

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123pugsy, you never disappoint with your updates, outstanding craftsmanship. This is the first time I've seen the back of the car. It's has a tough, yet sexy look to it. I really like it.

Two thumbs up :)
 
Absolutely jaw dropping. Metal craftsmanship at its highest level. I'm curious, what do you use to dress the weld between the fender and vertical body panel? That's a really tight corner from what I can see in the picture. I also like the angle brackets to hold the fender in place during tig welding,
 
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Absolutely jaw dropping. Metal craftsmanship at its highest level. I'm curious, what do you use to dress the weld between the fender and vertical body panel? That's a really tight corner.

No choice but to use filler in there. It's welded from inside. The lumps outside are penetration nuggets coming thru, so super solid. Cannot weld the outside, the quarte panel will warp to heck. A friend mentioned UPOL fiberglass filler which can span gaps. No real gap though, solid connection, so should be fine. Some minor sculpting on the inside corner.


UPOL



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