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Car looks great. I agree with everyone here that says to let him do it his way. I'm sure it will turn out fine. He has done great so far.

At 70 degrees F inside .. I've used 3 other brands of epoxy before I started using SPI epoxy. SPI is better all the way around.

There is no code. It's just pure black. That's why I mentioned the Toyota 202 code. I know it's just pure black. No other colors added. Bought some Ford white other day and there were about 4-5 other colors added to it. In small increments of course

You need a formula that has just black toner only. The quality of the toner from my experience dictates how black the black would be. Toyota code 202 , onyx black if memory is correct, is just straight black. Nothing added. Some 8555 formulas contain a blue depending which one they look up.

If you are also doing inside the cab, inside doors, bottom of hood and inside of bed, you will need at least one and half to two gallons that you will mix with reducer. If you are planning on keeping it or want it to look good for any period of time use high quality color and clear.

If it were me I would sand it off , rebase if needed and reclear. It may dry but probably never cure the way it needs to.

It just makes it easier to appreciate those cars and trucks where all the gaps and panels are in perfect alignment.

It has aged well. Also nice looking GMC truck.

Sounds like going to be a good show.

Yes, there was a comment sometime in the past about that . I don't remember when tho.

What base is used ?

I may try the mirka. Looking for something better. Thanks jc.

I'm glad it was discussed because without an air compressor that is functioning properly we will have all kinds of problems. I went thru 3 used air compressors in 6 months because they failed from one problem or another. Bought new one after that. So thank you Barry for starting this as well as...

In 2014 I helped a man on his last two cars before retirement who had been doing paint body work for over 50 years. One day we were talking about compressors and he said that he had to get a new bottom welded into his due to rust eating a hole in it. Been working good for years he said. Good man...

This has been a really good thread with a lot of good information.

Thanks for the information.

Is there any difference in synthetic oil brands or is it just different labels put on same oil for these compressors that use it. Big difference in price tho.

Looks like rust to me.

Dp primer is what we were putting on sanded chrome and stainless back in the 90s when the mono look was in.

Back in late 80s and early 90s my brother in law was a jobber at a store that carried two of the big name paint companies products. Just paint , no car parts etc. I remember him trying to get the shops to start using this new kind of primer called 2k and also epoxy. Most did lot work and lacquer...