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I’ve run out of Speed clear mid panel, my guess is that it takes less than a minute to quickly mix a small amount to finish off the job. With medium activator it still melts in and there’s no dry spots, with fast activator there can be a bit of texture left but it’s easy to clean up and buff to...

Smaller amounts usually increase the price a bit, from what I’ve noticed with different jobbers throughout the years.

I suppose it depends on the color you choose, but Barry has posted that a top of the line clear may not be enough to save a cheap basecoat underneath. I’d rather play it safe and get a mid tier basecoat, just stay away from the entry level stuff like Omni, Nason, Limco, etc.

I’ve only tried the DV1 basecoat gun a few times, a buddy of mine owns it. Great gun for metallics, effortless blends and easy to spray. The pressure settings on the digital gauge can be somewhat deceiving because it reads lower than the input by the gun handle. If the digital gauge reads 15 PSI...

Might as well add SONAX Ultimate Cut to the list, their newest compound. Faster cut, longer working time and easier to clean up.

The main advantage of 2K sealer is speed, way faster to denib than epoxy sealer.

You’ll be better of with some original 6” backing pad from lake country, they have a lower profile and the right amount of flex to help the pad conform to the surface. Blended wool pads from Lake Country (blue color) work pretty good, using wool at low RPM and clean the pad after every use will...

As long as the other party understands there will be no warranty involved, but even then it’s risky business if things go sideways. Someone’s reputation will be on the line and most likely it will be the painters.

Oh snap!!!!! The internet never forgets.

Thanks for the update.

I’m almost sure some are translucent from the factory, certain pigments must be pretty damn hard to achieve full hiding, and that’s what gives them such vibrancy and depth.

Thanks, I’ll see if I can find them locally first.

do you have a link to the part number or a pic of the product box? Would be nice to try it out.

Without access to mixing paint software is hard to judge the correct value shade you’d need for different colors. Some painters like to take a picture of the color with their phone and convert to B&W and match the resulting phone screen to previously made spray out cards. Whomever you order...

Can’t recall the spraying conditions, except that I didn’t have to use a curing lamp. So it must’ve been in warmer weather. I don’t like using epoxy in the winter for collision work.

I must've been around 40-50%, done it on bumpers and small two panel jobs. Cromax EZ and Envirobase used.

I’ve done it a few times at around 40-45 mins without issues, but if you have the luxury of time an hour would be safer for sure.

In some paint lines you will find the RR color mixed as regular basecoat/clearcoat without being tri-stage. I painted a Ford F-150 for a friend of mine with Cromax EZ with such formula and it was blendable. I have no clue how much vibrancy your would loose compared to a tri-stage formula though.

I had a SATA gun that started behaving just like you describe, and sure enough I had to really tighten up the nozzle fluid and the problem went away. Worth trying it out on your gun to see if it’s a quick fix.

Polyester primer goes on quite heavy and has a lot of build, but it’s loaded with solvents that may be too harsh/strong to sit on top of 24hr epoxy.