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What SPI red is closest to GM Torch red?

I remember Barry saying the clear takes a month per coat to fully cure. I would think that certainly depends on temperature, but you get the idea.

I've used these mini pads on a 3" dynabrade rotary. They work well. https://www.autogeek.net/small-wool-buffing-pad.html These work good too, wool and foam, not as aggressive as pure wool...

Give SPI a call and ask them if it will ever harden enough, but I've sprayed it 1:1 with reducer instead of activator. Per Barry's guidance I bought a bunch of rages and reducer and started wiping the whole car down till I got it all off including much of the basecoat. I suspect the clear will...

Wet sand the 2k primer with 600 grit paper. After wiping clean, wipe it again, and maybe a third time, let it sit overnight, then sealer (reduced coat of epoxy), then base as explained in the perfect paint job write up. You don't sand the basecoat, just the clearcoat.

I was there and forgot that was done by you. Very nice.

What a hack! I was going to ask you to paint my 67 vette this summer, but after seeing this, I'm going to have to beg.

..you have a forklift, I saw it, ...I thought

Ok, well I mixed holdtight in a 55 gallon drum 100:1, raised the drum on a forklift to create some head pressure in the supply hose, hooked that up to a pressure washer and washed down the body and parts. Worked great. I could do a hole car with about 30 gallons. Fortunately I can skip this...

I have a couple gallons of Sandy I'll be trying on my next project, so this is good news. You should really wear a mask when sanding, so you don't get that cough. I have a car or two you could paint if you feel like using Sandy some more.

Many of us have been in this situation including myself. I've painted 8 cars in my home made booth in my two car garage. Not fun. I think if you could quickly move the parts in and out of the garage that you could do it. I've done this with small parts I could hang on a wire. Large body...

Raptor is activated and so would inherently, I would think, be more durable than Lizard skin which is just water based. Yes, certainly an odor to Raptor when spraying and curing, much more than Lizard. I've always used the Raptor supplied gun which is more of a spitting than a spray gun.

I think for longevity it would be best to remove all the rust from the surface. Can you mask off and media blast the lip? Then start with epoxy, wait 48 hrs, then apply Raptor. I think you'll need the Raptor spray gun to apply it. 2mm tip won't work, too small. I've only used Raptor, but...

So this is what you are doing in 'retirement', still playing chemist.

I'm happy for him. It was probably a hard decision but when you know the time is right, the time is right.

I use this one. It's empty now and frankly can't remember if I've had 700 or 710 in it. Worth a try. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBJ9363/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have some fiberglass parts soda blasted and will blow them off with compressed air, then wash with water and holdtight. For anyone that has used Holdtight, how did you apply it into the water stream when pressure washing? Instructions say to use it at about a 100:1 ratio.

I've used this lay flat ducting connected to a 12" exhaust fan to blow the fog out of my garage and deep into my backyard...

You can tune the flatness with how much activator you use, but unless you have some old stock, matte black from SPI is discontinued.