Body Filler over scuffed 2k/Epoxy.

J

James Iroc-z

Hey guys, currently restoring my 1986 Iroc-z. Windshield out, doors are off, all the body panels off. Planning on spraying the car a more modern White color, like BMW's Alpina White.
I took just about the whole car down to bare metal, repaired a couple rust spots, and sprayed SPI White Epoxy on everything, including the plastics bumpers, fiberglass pieces, etc in hopes the paint color is as uniform as possible when the job is done.
After the Epoxy was sprayed, I waited 24-48 hours and sprayed 2-3 coats of grey 2k build primer on everything on the vehicle.
There are a couple dimples on the doors, 4 spots I counted that will need a light layer of body filler. And 1 small ding on the chassis itself.

So my question is, since the car is already epoxy & 2k primed, whats my best option now my taking time and materials into consideration as well. I know it's not the "CORRECT" high-end industry standard to put body filler over 2k. But I am also aware 90% of production shops do this, if not worse.
What's your guys opinions on what I should do next?

Should I scuff the couple spots where body filler is needed with 80 grit, and apply my body filler over the epoxy/2k, sand, and let it dry for a week or so before I apply another couple coats of 2k, and guide coat until its straight?
Or?

Body filler I am using is Evercoat Rage Ultra. Or should I be using layers of glazing putty over the 2k instead?
 
I've worked at a lot of "production" shops, some pretty shady ones when I was young, and nowhere have I seen them 2K priming before applying filler. Priming twice kills production. You could just sand the 2K off the dented areas and apply 1 coat of epoxy a little past where the filler will be. That would be better than filler straight over the 2K, IMO. I have used polyester putty many,many times over 2K to fix pin holes, chips, scratches, or very small low spots, but actual dent repair with filler should be done over epoxy.
 
I've worked at a lot of "production" shops, some pretty shady ones when I was young, and nowhere have I seen them 2K priming before applying filler. Priming twice kills production. You could just sand the 2K off the dented areas and apply 1 coat of epoxy a little past where the filler will be. That would be better than filler straight over the 2K, IMO. I have used polyester putty many,many times over 2K to fix pin holes, chips, scratches, or very small low spots, but actual dent repair with filler should be done over epoxy.
Could I just sand the dented areas with 220~ while trying not to break through to bare metal, and clean area and body filler/glaze the spot rather than sanding it down, and spot spraying the epoxy first?
 
Is there a reason you don't want to spray more epoxy? Are you out? If so, what if you break through the 2K and epoxy to metal when repairing your dents? (Very likely) What if you sand through to bare metal on an edge while blocking the 2K? (Very likely) What are you going to use for a sealer? Polyester putty or glaze is only to be used for a thin skim coat. It is not made to repair dents or be built up thick. If you just sand the dented areas and removed the 2K without hitting metal (Not likely), you would still need to recoat with epoxy because it is more than likely past the 7 day window. You will be hard pressed to get a recommendation that is wrong on this forum, as much as you may want it:)
 
Hopefully my comment did not scare James away.

I wanted to make it doubly clear to anyone who might stumble onto this thread in the future that it is not standard procedure to put polyester putty on top of 2K, and that not even low-end shops make a habit of this, mostly because it wastes time and material. In the rare event that it is necessary, it is because someone (bodyman or prepper) made a mistake.

One exception might be to fill pinholes that got missed and not filled by primer. Poly putty has been okay for that in my experience, but again, it would be a waste of time for a collision shop to allow this to happen regularly because it would mean re-priming the area, which is a great way to lose money doing work on a day to day basis.

The moral of the story is to be careful and get your stuff right before 2K primer. 2K is not a magic coating that fixes anything bad that it covers. It's anything but.
 
Thanks for the advice guys.
I really messed up spraying the primer right over the epoxy and skipping the body filler step. I guess it was a little overwhelming for a first timer like me trying to stuff it all into a 2 day weekend in the warm summer. I do have a lot of epoxy left. However, it's mid 50 degree weather right now in Seattle and only getting colder. Trying to figure out my best way to tackle this now.
Sand the spots down with 80 grit, spray epoxy on, following day apply body filler, sand body filler, apply 2k primer (same day as body filler was applied), guide coat, sealer, base/clear?

I have a very small ding on the flat edge of the quarter panel fender flare, so sand area to bare metal, how would I go about applying the epoxy? Could I just brush/roll on the epoxy? Or mix a small amount and pull the trigger once on it... I'm talking if the area is 2x2 inches. Then apply body filler, sand, 2k prime.

Again I realize I'm kind of backward on my steps, very frustrating! What would you guys do in my situation to wrap this project up and keep moving along with it in the coming cold months? I'm working in my garage, it's insulated but still cold. I have a few propane heaters and a 20k btu heater/ac unit to use for heat down here.
 
All you have to do is keep the metal temp 65 or above for 24 hrs in the areas you spray epoxy. A heat lamp bulb or small electric heater should accomplish that. Remember to keep the actual mixed epoxy warm, also. Get some small mix cups with lids. Mix it the night before, bring it inside. Warm up the metal in the morning and spray it. Keep it warm until the next morning , then do filler work and prime You didn't really mess up. It is just a minor setback and can be corrected easily.
 
Thanks guys, I sanded with 180 and re applied epoxy in areas filler is needed.

I had one very small ding (half the size of a penny) on the quarter panel fender flare, I sanded with 180, cleaned area with water based w&g and solvent, waited an hour and brushed fresh epoxy on the spot I’m going to apply filler to. At night the metal was 67* degrees, left the propane heater in the area overnight, woke up to check it and the metal was 62* degrees. It looks a little odd from brushing it on. Should I put a light layer of filler on it as it looks now (it’s been roughly 48 hours), or sand with 180 and then filler? Just want some peace of mind as the spot looks a little weird.
 

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