AAE
Learner
Maybe even they can't afford them.
8000 trizact
- Thread starter Jim C
- Start date
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
I'll continue to do it the old fashioned way until I see enough of you guys switching to make me rethink it.
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
I'll use them at some point because I did like the 3000 then 5000 system. Made a big difference. Eliminated the heavy compounding. But I definitely wouldn't go back to using their compounds and polishes. No sir. Way I see it you can use the 8000 and eliminate the heavy compound step irregardless of what system you are using.
3M teamed up with Festool to create their vacuum systems. For some reason they didn’t bother with rebranding the tools.
I’ve heard Norton used Rupes for their vacuum units but they are branded Norton.
jlcustomz
evil painter
Local finishmaster store had to order me the pack with 5 3000 grit & 5 8000 grit, they hadn't heard of 8000 yet. Was quoted less than $60. Got an interface pad with it.
Now just for a laugh , check out the 3-m sandpaper pack in the pic below. I inherited a few packs from the wife's grandfather's mostly wood workingshop. Was stored in a cabinet there & been in a festool plastic container here for a few more years. Saying this paper sucks is an understatement. Technology definitely has changed. Used this stuff in high school.
Also check out the full 3-m name on back,,,, Minnesota Mining & Manufacturing.
Now just for a laugh , check out the 3-m sandpaper pack in the pic below. I inherited a few packs from the wife's grandfather's mostly wood workingshop. Was stored in a cabinet there & been in a festool plastic container here for a few more years. Saying this paper sucks is an understatement. Technology definitely has changed. Used this stuff in high school.
Also check out the full 3-m name on back,,,, Minnesota Mining & Manufacturing.
Used the 3000 then 8000 system after 1200 and Tolex on 4 VW fenders and deck lid (engine cover). Seemed to work great, and I only used 1 pad each on all 5 panels, and they still seemed to be cutting. Tried buffing with V36 polish and an orange pad and while it glossed up immediately there were still da scratches remaining. Went to the v32 with orange pad and with some effort got all the da scratches out. Not sure if I removed all the Tolex, or the 3000 scratches before the 8000. Haven't tried the compound and pad yet, because like many, I hate the thoughts of going back to a 3M compound. I just wonder if it is full of fillers that make the scratches APPEAR to be gone. Wouldn't be the first time.
Jim C
Oldtimer
when i have da scratches left behind i find its from my 1000-1500 step. its usually me not getting the 1000 fully worked out with 1500 because im just not sanding long enough with 1500 before moving on to the 3000/green bufflex step. many times i rush it then it bites me in the ass.
I've had the same issues with 1000 da. These fenders being so round I started with 1200 wet on a soft block, then Tolex, 3000, and 8000. I had no straightline scratches, so I assume I didn't go over the Tolex enough with the 3000. I usually use the green Bufflex after the Tolex which may have worked better than the 3000 Trizact.
Jim C
Oldtimer
its been years since i used 3000 trizact. first time i read this it didnt click that you were using it. the whole reason i stopped using it was because it wore out so quickly but it made you think it was still working by creating foam on the surface. this was causing me major issues with what you are seeing. the best i ever got out of a 3000 disc was 1 panel. i really dont understand because 1 5000 disc will last damn near a whole car. anyway, ditch the 3000 and try a green bufflex instead for that step. way cheaper, last alot longer and you can tell when it stops cutting.
anotheridiot
Member
This is why it makes so little sense that they will discontinue the 5000 all together.
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
Jim C
Oldtimer
chris, i am using the green bufflex wet. even though it say they are for dry you can use them wet no problem and yes i am using them as the 3000 step and going to 8000 right after. i have gone through prob half my box of 8000 so far and this combo seems to work well. i havent really noticed any drawbacks going from the 3000/bufflex directly to 8000 instead of the 5000 like i used to. the 8000 cuts fast and seems to work out the green bufflex scratch quickly and without issue. i dont think they last quite as long as the 5000 discs did but definitely longer than the 3000 trizact. long enough for me to be happy with the cost vs length of use. i seem to be getting about 1 toe rail on a boat per disc. that is a 3-4" wide area with a total length of maybe 50ft.
Jim C
Oldtimer
ok so i have an update and a confession lol. the 3000 then 8000 trizact is an actual system so since its been about 8 or more years since i have used the trizact 3000 i figured i would give it a shot again just to see if they made any changes to it to make it better and last longer like the 5000. i have been through a whole box of it now and have to say it is night and day difference from what it once was. i have compared it side by side with the green bufflex then the 8000 after and i actually found that the panel where i used the 3000 then 8000 vs green bufflex then 5000 or 8000 actually buffed out way faster. i am going to switch my 3000 step now from green bufflex back to the trizact. my initial sanding is still done with 1000 eagle yellow film then tolex or pink assilix for the 1500.
For collision work I’m doing 2000 Eagle Yellow to Buflex Blue 2500K then jump to 8000.
I pretty much stopped the Buflex Green altogether. Have yet to do a nice complete buffing job where I start with 1000.
Jim C
Oldtimer
if i am just trying to knock down some peel and dust nibs and it doesnt need to be super flat then i will start with 1500 but typically thats not the case here. i need to knock the clear flat because its over artwork or something like that. in that case i have to start with 1000. for bufflex, the blue does sound like the way to go. i did some woodgrained parts here today 1000,1500 then 3000 tri and then 8000. was quick, super easy, not a single pigtail and i could probably just polished it with no compound. it was flawless gloss with the buffer in seconds. effortless. that was on 2 day old universal.
ksungela
Member
Here's the process I've used the past two cars.
Wet sand 600 or 800 grit, Black Ice paper,
Wet sand with 1500, black ice, or tolex wet (this takes longer than 1500).
Jescar Correction compound https://www.autopia-carcare.com/jescar-correction-compound-32.html#.XjyvlmhKiUk
using this pad. https://www.autopia-carcare.com/lake-country-force-6in-wool.html#.Xjyvc2hKiUk on a makita rotary
Jescar
Jescar Microfinishing polish https://www.autopia-carcare.com/jescar-micro-finishing-polish-32.html#.XjyvvGhKiUk
using a Lake country Black ccs pad
This is the faster process I've come up with. I'll have to try Jim C's method next time and compare.
Wet sand 600 or 800 grit, Black Ice paper,
Wet sand with 1500, black ice, or tolex wet (this takes longer than 1500).
Jescar Correction compound https://www.autopia-carcare.com/jescar-correction-compound-32.html#.XjyvlmhKiUk
using this pad. https://www.autopia-carcare.com/lake-country-force-6in-wool.html#.Xjyvc2hKiUk on a makita rotary
Jescar
Jescar Microfinishing polish https://www.autopia-carcare.com/jescar-micro-finishing-polish-32.html#.XjyvvGhKiUk
using a Lake country Black ccs pad
This is the faster process I've come up with. I'll have to try Jim C's method next time and compare.
